what have you done to your car today ?
- Thread starter seatcupramad23
- Start date
So....
Went to change the DBM... Found that my existing mount had a rather large crack and chunk missing
Plus snapped both bolts into the subframe!
Luckily I'd bought new bolts from Sere Motors and GSF had a mount in stock.
So some quick work with the grinder had the old one off and I got the new one with the Poly bushes fitted.
Old mount after removal.
New mount and bush fitted.
I would defiantly advise buying replacement bolts before doing this job, both my friends with a Leon had snapped bolts too.
Also fitted my quick shift, surprisingly easy to do and feels great!
Went to change the DBM... Found that my existing mount had a rather large crack and chunk missing
Plus snapped both bolts into the subframe!
Luckily I'd bought new bolts from Sere Motors and GSF had a mount in stock.
So some quick work with the grinder had the old one off and I got the new one with the Poly bushes fitted.
Old mount after removal.
New mount and bush fitted.
I would defiantly advise buying replacement bolts before doing this job, both my friends with a Leon had snapped bolts too.
Also fitted my quick shift, surprisingly easy to do and feels great!
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Annoying dent in my rear door, thought I'd give the hot and cold method a go.
Basic principle is to heat the metal up, until it's hot to touch so it expands, then rapidly cool it using compressed air to contract it again.
Note: using a heat gun or blow torch would most likely result in a loss of paint! Use the wife's hairdryer... Or pretend it's the wife's of it's actually yours..
It's not going to get every sent out but isn't bad.
Mine looked like this to start with:
After some heat and cooling using these:
The result is this:
It's not perfect and still has a slight crease, which would always of needed professional work to remove. However it's not as bad by a long way and very cheap!
Basic principle is to heat the metal up, until it's hot to touch so it expands, then rapidly cool it using compressed air to contract it again.
Note: using a heat gun or blow torch would most likely result in a loss of paint! Use the wife's hairdryer... Or pretend it's the wife's of it's actually yours..
It's not going to get every sent out but isn't bad.
Mine looked like this to start with:
After some heat and cooling using these:
The result is this:
It's not perfect and still has a slight crease, which would always of needed professional work to remove. However it's not as bad by a long way and very cheap!
Annoying dent in my rear door, thought I'd give the hot and cold method a go.
Basic principle is to heat the metal up, until it's hot to touch so it expands, then rapidly cool it using compressed air to contract it again.
Note: using a heat gun or blow torch would most likely result in a loss of paint! Use the wife's hairdryer... Or pretend it's the wife's of it's actually yours..
It's not going to get every sent out but isn't bad.
Mine looked like this to start with:
After some heat and cooling using these:
The result is this:
It's not perfect and still has a slight crease, which would always of needed professional work to remove. However it's not as bad by a long way and very cheap!
That was a nasty dent. It looks much better now. I might try that in future.
Yeah... The most annoying part was I did it when trying the 'Palming Method' to release the door lock....
I got annoyed and hit slightly too hard... And in the wrong place.
Still, gives me something to do!
I got annoyed and hit slightly too hard... And in the wrong place.
Still, gives me something to do!
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I braved the hot weather and fitted a new rear wiper motor this afternoon. Simple enough job. Probably took me longer to get the tailgate plastic trim off and back on again! I had to repair a couple of clip mounts as they cracked when I pulled trim off last week when I realised the motor was leaking. Also T-cut and polished the tailgate as it had a key scratch and some other marks in the paint. Slowly getting the car up together.
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M249 removal this evening, I read a few guides on here before doing it.
Most say the hoses need cutting to remove, this is not the case. I've removed everything complete so it can be refitted if needed at a later date.
Results seem good, although will know more when the air isn't so hot!
Most say the hoses need cutting to remove, this is not the case. I've removed everything complete so it can be refitted if needed at a later date.
Results seem good, although will know more when the air isn't so hot!
Had a coil pack failure and had kittens when it happened as thought she'd gone bang lol now to source some uprated ones me thinks
Received a new splitter type dump valve today for free and fixed my widow switches back into my drivrs door and finished my valeting project. Result!
Put the car up for sale the other day on eBay, took the car for a full valet and detail yesterday, fell back in love with the car again & asked myself"why are you selling it you tit!?".
So took the add back down today & treated the car to a set of Bilstein B8's to say sorry to the car! lol
So took the add back down today & treated the car to a set of Bilstein B8's to say sorry to the car! lol
I've had this a few times in the past. Advertised the car for sale, go for a drive and suddenly the car drives great and think to myself, why am I selling it! I'm really pleased with my cupra. It needs a few jobs doing but I don't mind tinkering. Just wish I had the funds to have bought an R!
Went to fit a universal boost gauge but it appears it doesn't fit which I'm cheesed off about, I'm trying to source a pillar pod but can't find one. So looks like I'm going to have to wait.
Fitted rear yellow stuff brake pads. Raised coilvers to stop some horribly clunking when driving. Also noticed it steers like a drunk man. What is wrong with my car? It feels like it has no ARB and will almost tip over when turning.
Picked my car up from Badger 5 at the weekend, after having the following fitted-
Uprated rods
Supertech valves
Supertech exhaust valves
Piston rings
Engine head rebuild- skin, guides, valves
K04-380 hybrid turbo
Gen2 high flow manifold
V2.2 Silicon tip
Bosch 550cc injectors
AEM Water Meth kit
Toyo front intercooler
Custom stage 4 map
Forge baffled sump
JR Filter cone
Vibratechnik engine mounts side x2
Vibratechnik engine mounts dogbone inserts
Uprated rods
Supertech valves
Supertech exhaust valves
Piston rings
Engine head rebuild- skin, guides, valves
K04-380 hybrid turbo
Gen2 high flow manifold
V2.2 Silicon tip
Bosch 550cc injectors
AEM Water Meth kit
Toyo front intercooler
Custom stage 4 map
Forge baffled sump
JR Filter cone
Vibratechnik engine mounts side x2
Vibratechnik engine mounts dogbone inserts
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