Genuine SEAT Parts and Accessories.

what have you done to your car today ?

Sparkie said:
No the car’s silver. The blue silver. That’s just a wierd lighting on the photo.
I agree white is the best. What I may do if I wrap it. With a black roof.
That S badge is easy to get out. You remove the plastic scuttle panel above it. Then just pull the S unit forward and it pops out.
Simples.
Here’s a shot of the car in real colours.
fece95d0fe1c2c73e77c7800c76c7c6a.jpg



Badger5 Custom Map + TIP,
3”Custom exhaust, FMIC, Bosh 550’s, BC Coilovers, ARB’s +loads more.
Click to expand...

Ha! Lunar Grey - LS7Y - same as mine. And there I've been this past couple of years thinking yours is white... I do like the blue tone - much more than the plain silver anyway.

I'll have to have a go at the badge, or I might buy one to practice on. I'm thinking I'll mask the edges and spray those red, and then put matt black or grey for the logo. Now I know I can get it out fairly easily, I've got no excuse.

Well, other than the fact I have to clean my turbo tomorrow... Dreading it, but has to be done now.


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Mine is "java black pearl" a custom paint job. In fact it is a special edition color from Subaru.

I think it looks sick at least people stare at the car when stopped in parking lights LOL.

javablack.jpg


Reflections are not always as obvious. At night they look more bronze-ish. It is fun to see in real life.

It is like the dirtiest color ever made. Dirtier than regular black. What you see are not swirl marks, but spider webs or something lol.
 
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20VT_AUQ said:
Mine is "java black pearl" a custom paint job. In fact it is a special edition color from Subaru.

I think it looks sick at least people stare at the car when stopped in parking lights LOL.

View attachment 23299

Reflections are not always as obvious. At night they look more bronze-ish. It is fun to see in real life.

It is like the dirtiest color ever made. Dirtier than regular black. What you see are not swirl marks, but spider webs or something lol.
Click to expand...

Still looks great though...


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iammooks said:
Well, other than the fact I have to clean my turbo tomorrow... Dreading it, but has to be done now.


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Are you doing the oven cleaner trick?
If so, wear clothes you are happy to throw away after.
Rubber gloves and eye protection a must.
Id keep a bowl of fresh clean water near bye incase you get it on your skin. It burns quickly.
And as I've said before, dont forget to work the actuator

Good luck m8 ?
 
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Rich.T said:
Are you doing the oven cleaner trick?
If so, wear clothes you are happy to throw away after.
Rubber gloves and eye protection a must.
Id keep a bowl of fresh clean water near bye incase you get it on your skin. It burns quickly.
And as I've said before, dont forget to work the balls

Good luck m8
Click to expand...

That’s what I was hoping it would say


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Rich.T said:
Are you doing the oven cleaner trick?
If so, wear clothes you are happy to throw away after.
Rubber gloves and eye protection a must.
Id keep a bowl of fresh clean water near bye incase you get it on your skin. It burns quickly.
And as I've said before, dont forget to work the actuator

Good luck m8
Click to expand...

Yep - going to spray the nuts with penetrant and give the threads a good wire brush before putting the timing belt cover on, then I'll start on the turbo. Got two cans of Mr Muscle sitting around from when I did the EGR valve so I should have some spare for when I do the intake manifold too.

I'm reading threads and watching videos about it now, but have only come across one comment in hundreds about snapping bolts, so I'm feeling positive.

Will have one of my cycling water bottles with me so I can spray if I need to, and I've got super old clothes and some De Walt glasses for when I'm doing the job.

With any luck I'll find the nuts and actuator pretty quickly - I've been under there before when I replaced the vacuum pipe, so I'll just find that and go from there. I'm sure it'll all make sense when I'm under the car.


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iammooks said:
Yep - going to spray the nuts with penetrant and give the threads a good wire brush before putting the timing belt cover on, then I'll start on the turbo. Got two cans of Mr Muscle sitting around from when I did the EGR valve so I should have some spare for when I do the intake manifold too.

I'm reading threads and watching videos about it now, but have only come across one comment in hundreds about snapping bolts, so I'm feeling positive.

Will have one of my cycling water bottles with me so I can spray if I need to, and I've got super old clothes and some De Walt glasses for when I'm doing the job.

With any luck I'll find the nuts and actuator pretty quickly - I've been under there before when I replaced the vacuum pipe, so I'll just find that and go from there. I'm sure it'll all make sense when I'm under the car.


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Click to expand...

Good luck man


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Got a straw on the can?
Its quite an easy job.
Think the top nut is out of sight so you need to feel for it.
And if memory serves theres a mounting bracket at the bottom of the downpipe that needs removing 1st.
The nuts undid fine and i just copper greased em for the next rime i had to do it.

I got a bit into fuel additives with my diesel thinking i was doing the car good.
But all that seemed to happen was i was cleaning the turbo more often. And it made the black soot/crap more claggy. Not good.
If i get another diesel, id make sure itd get longer, hotter runs to clear it out.
 
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Rich.T said:
Got a straw on the can?
Its quite an easy job.
Think the top nut is out of sight so you need to feel for it.
And if memory serves theres a mounting bracket at the bottom of the downpipe that needs removing 1st.
The nuts undid fine and i just copper greased em for the next rime i had to do it.

I got a bit into fuel additives with my diesel thinking i was doing the car good.
But all that seemed to happen was i was cleaning the turbo more often. And it made the black soot/crap more claggy. Not good.
If i get another diesel, id make sure itd get longer, hotter runs to clear it out.
Click to expand...

Used to take my passat up the bypass at redline. Had a small stretch 300m at most. Used to blow the crap out


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Sl1ced said:
It goes off without a hitch? either that or the mrs decides she’s going to help


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She already thinks I'm a boy racer for painting my gear knob surround. All she has to do is hear the word 'turbo' and she's rolling her eyes

Rich.T said:
Got a straw on the can?
Its quite an easy job.
Think the top nut is out of sight so you need to feel for it.
And if memory serves theres a mounting bracket at the bottom of the downpipe that needs removing 1st.
The nuts undid fine and i just copper greased em for the next rime i had to do it.

I got a bit into fuel additives with my diesel thinking i was doing the car good.
But all that seemed to happen was i was cleaning the turbo more often. And it made the black soot/crap more claggy. Not good.
If i get another diesel, id make sure itd get longer, hotter runs to clear it out.
Click to expand...

Got the WD40 spray nozzle on the can, so all set.

I'll keep an eye out for the downpipe bracket - that's the kind of thing that would have me stuck for hours if I didn't know about it.

Got a new tub of copper grease today. The little tube I used up has been knocking around since I was 16, so this tub is going to last me until I'm in the ground.

I've been using the Wynn ecoboost and the injector cleaner over the past year or so. Can't say I've noticed a difference, so will just stick to keeping things clean and giving the car a decent run regularly. I never knew short journeys are what kills a diesel like this, not until a year ago, so I make sure I at least get the coolant up to temp when I drive anywhere these days.

I'm kind of hoping the actuator is solid - at least I'll know that's what's causing my problems.


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