Btw this is the MK1 section, you may want to skip over to the MK3 folks for helpful advice ?
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what have you done to your car today ?
- Thread starter seatcupramad23
- Start date
All we do here is complain about leaks - oil, coolant, boost pipes, weather seals...
I hear that in the mk3 forum they actually get to drive their cars occasionally.
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Speaking of leaks, I've still got mine. I've had a towel weighed down in the driver's footwell for the past few days, and I checked it today and it was soaking. The passenger footwell is dry, so it's either the driver's door or it's the scuttle. Either way, I'll be doing some work next week...
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run a hose pipe over the window with door open if its that seal again you'll see the leak soon, just crack the panel a bit, if not that saves you stripping it all out, if its drivers side it cant be the pollen filter box seal, on drivers side there is that same sealing foam but the body is raised up there, i never did seal that due to that but I've read in the past the Gromit for the main wire can leak but that's raised up also
Not wanting to miss out on the leaks theme - my passenger rear door doesnt seem to seal 100% - so water gets in near the top of the pillar, runs down the inside of the door, then drips gather on bottom of door and fall onto the door rubber/sill. Definitely doesnt appear to be the window motor carrier plate though as that was sealed up in the past
Have tried silicone greasing the rubber seal and it looks ok, but I can only assume it just doesnt seal tight enough up against the door to prevent some water ingress. Short of a new, unbtainable seal, are there any other options?
Have tried silicone greasing the rubber seal and it looks ok, but I can only assume it just doesnt seal tight enough up against the door to prevent some water ingress. Short of a new, unbtainable seal, are there any other options?
I hadn't thought of using silicone spray on the seals - might have to give that a go. Judging from the state of my old lock on the nearside, I'm thinking that water is getting in either the way you're describing, or it's getting in around the curve of the wheel arch. I've got a slightly larger gap there than in the rest of the door, so wondered if there's an issue around there. If it's that, I have no idea how I'd fix it...
If it's what you describe, it might just be a matter of adjusting the strike plate - they go up and down as well as inwards and outwards and a tighter fit might just be what sorts it.
Looking at the sills, it's worth checking to make sure everything is flush. Where I've pulled the carpet up a few times to put towels on the sound deadening, I noticed that when I pulled the carpet out from under the plastic trim, it lifted the trim out of its retaining clips and wasn't back in properly. Be warned - you have to go all the way back to the boot trim if you want to do it properly - I tried to manhandle it back in, but the plastic trim that's level with the seat backs has to slot into the trim lower down, and it's really hard to get everything where it should be and not end up breaking clips etc. if the upper trim piece is still in place. Then it's a matter of working the rubber lip on the sill over the trim piece.
Utter ball-ache that was to do today. Hands are raw now.
I did that a couple of years ago, but have noticed recently that my shifts still feel pretty notchy. Starting to think about changing transmission fluid, as it's never been changed...
there's no service schedule on the gearbox oil well any car, most recommend 100k or hard/ruff gear change
Changed mine at 98K. A bit better but not massively.
You put the red probe into the brake fluid reservoir and the black onto the bare metal of the brake cylinder underneath. The voltage reading corresponds with the amount of moisture in the fluid. 0.3V = 3% moisture and it's due for a change ?
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