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took the rear door passenger door trim off as i noticed it was coming off again and now i know why there was heavy rust behind it .. the car door must of been bumped before me and cracked the paint behind .. it was pretty bad at the end of the trim as i hand to get the mini grinder out to take off the black rust and it was going though so used a 5mm drill to drill out the black spots then treat it then two pack fibre glass filler and paint with galv rust inhibitor then spray red what you can see once trim is on, used double sided pe foam for the surrounding trim then going to use Butyl tape to stick it back on but warm up first
 
well best i could do the foam was a bit thicker as they use a very thin foam the paint on the door was a tad faded from were it was paint matched and the ding you can hardly see it (wheel arch side) .. but better than before as that rust was really bad behind the strip and it was under the paint further down.. its solid with the Butl tape on how i think the same tape was used to put it on as getting the tape off took the paint off behind strip and that was even warming it up
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had been in touch with anthony who does boostmetrixtuning and sent him an ecu i managed to get from an audi tt, he phoned and we spoke about what i wanted as in deletes and power delivery and what mods i had, he recommended i get a set of bam injectors also, so i sent the ecu to him and it arrived back today, put it in alongside a set of the injectors and a new set of bkr7e plugs and wooosh she goes like sh*t off a shovel, feels so much better than the stage 1 i had on the original ecu, pulls all the way up the rev range and on a 20 mile drive still returned 41.7mpg on the dash, well happy with it now, was getting hesitation for over a year with that other map which is now totally gone, all the logging i did showed it was because of torque interventions and with his map the torque tables have been edited and now its smooth as silk
 
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the grease must of run out was not the cv boot split ?
I had noticed the cv boot split right on the beginning because the mud flaps were getting some grease and then I found the crack on the small end side of the boot. Still plenty of grease inside because the crack was still minimal.
 
I had noticed the cv boot split right on the beginning because the mud flaps were getting some grease and then I found the crack on the small end side of the boot. Still plenty of grease inside because the crack was still minimal.
problem is that crack lets in road grit and you don't need much to cause a grinding effect .. why you got mud flags on the car?
 
Noticed the handbrake felt very loose, removed both rear calipers to check float of pins and found the passenger side handbrake mechanism is solid - looks like either a replacement caliper or remove & strip down/repair mine


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Noticed the handbrake felt very loose, removed both rear calipers to check float of pins and found the passenger side handbrake mechanism is solid - looks like either a replacement caliper or remove & strip down/repair mine


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That would give me the fear. Anything to do with brakes on these cars has always turned out to be a pain for me, given I've got the standard brakes on the FR and not the Brembos. Hope you can do it without stripping anything down.


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problem is that crack lets in road grit and you don't need much to cause a grinding effect .. why you got mud flags on the car?
Yeah you are right. So I did took off the entire transmission tip, degreased it and blow with air compressor. Applied the new greased and all is good. I said mud flaps because I didn't know how to call the wheel arch inner plastic cover :geek:
 
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I’ve done it previously too cure a leak from seal ring, not as bad as you’d think but fiddly at times - it’s the rear caliper so not the Brembo


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When the guide bolts aren't seized, it is a easy job to do. Unless you have to do the seal ring - that involves bleeding the brake lines afterwards.
 
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been slowly gathering bits to rebuild my turbo as I cba for hybrids. Got hold of a junk K03 (no silencer) and spent couple hours disassembling to find out it doesnt fit the K03S core. Bummer!
 
That would give me the fear. Anything to do with brakes on these cars has always turned out to be a pain for me, given I've got the standard brakes on the FR and not the Brembos. Hope you can do it without stripping anything down.


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Ive had two rear calipers seize up and need changing as well as a front caliper hose burst , and then rounded the nipple bleeding it after the repair. fun fun fun!
 
Fixed the rear washer - 90deg had come detached!!! Also noted boot light no working so replaced with new festoon bulb……then when all back together, I couldn’t get windows to go up or mirrors to fold in
Found fuse #14 had popped, replaced and all good


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Fixed the rear washer - 90deg had come detached!!! Also noted boot light no working so replaced with new festoon bulb……then when all back together, I couldn’t get windows to go up or mirrors to fold in
Found fuse #14 had popped, replaced and all good


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Just done same on rear wash it was leaking and just on .. I reused the crimp clip .. even had issues with same pipe at all the joint points
 
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Had a little race with a BMW M135i Xdrive, booting it from 40mph in 3rd.
He got away from me smartly at first but basically kept up with him once we both hit 60, up to 100.
Looked it up and it has 306hp and 0-60 in 4.9.

£3500 v £45000 😆
 
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Fixed the rear washer - 90deg had come detached!!! Also noted boot light no working so replaced with new festoon bulb……then when all back together, I couldn’t get windows to go up or mirrors to fold in
Found fuse #14 had popped, replaced and all good


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Mines on my to do list too. Think it's leaking into the rear lock, as if I use it before parking up, it sets the alarm off.
 
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