Hi all, this may sound a stupid question but from previous experience of turbo cars if you have an after market air filter you usually get turbo chatter/flutter from air being forced back up to the induction kit. Does anyone else get this problem? I'm running a raid hf enclosed air filter. Is it because i need a normal cone induction kit? Does bypassing the n249 help at all? Any advice much appreciated please. Regards james
Why dont i get an turbo chatter/air filter flutter?
- Thread starter Essexcupra
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- chatter or air filter flutter turbo
What do you mean "its named turbo stall damages your turbo?" didn't really make sense. With regards to the dv do you mean a blocked vacuum hose or damage dv? Sorry to sound dumb the leons etc are a whole new world to me. i'm used to jap stuff. Is the dv the bosch part on the back of the engine block on the right hand side of it as you look at it?
kbrad44
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it appears Lodgey180 may have misread your post a little. So I will try my best to explain and others can jump in with their opinions.
From what I can gather you are asking why you are not getting the turbo chatter, but Lodgey must have read that you are getting it.
General opinion is that when Leons make the chattering then it is a sign that the turbo is getting stalled (not good for a long turbo life). Likely causes are faulty DV's or blocked bypass pipes that connect to the DV.
Open cone filters are good if you want to hear more engine induction noise and the DV working. Yes the Bosch part on the right rear of the engine is the DV (Diverter Valve). Most people tend to change these for Forge units or simular as they tend to be more reliable and give a better drive. Also they do give a good noise if you are using a open cone filter. Do a search and you will find lots of info about them.
As far as bypassing n249 I can't help there as I am still learning myself.
From what I can gather you are asking why you are not getting the turbo chatter, but Lodgey must have read that you are getting it.
General opinion is that when Leons make the chattering then it is a sign that the turbo is getting stalled (not good for a long turbo life). Likely causes are faulty DV's or blocked bypass pipes that connect to the DV.
Open cone filters are good if you want to hear more engine induction noise and the DV working. Yes the Bosch part on the right rear of the engine is the DV (Diverter Valve). Most people tend to change these for Forge units or simular as they tend to be more reliable and give a better drive. Also they do give a good noise if you are using a open cone filter. Do a search and you will find lots of info about them.
As far as bypassing n249 I can't help there as I am still learning myself.
Cheers kbrad44 i think he did read it a little wrong. You seem to know quite a lot for a newbie thanks! That was spot on as to what i wanted to know. So the leon cupras dont give out chatter as this is a sign of turbo stalling. Ok thats cleared a few things up thought in general most turbo cars gave chatter. Also the dv seems very quiet and can hardly hear it over the enclosed cone induction kit. is this normal or should the standard dvs still be fairly loud?
standard dv's are absolutely pants, get a forge 007p on there and then get it remapped and you'll hear it a lot more
I've got a Green open cone filter, 007p, relocation kit and the bonnet carpet removed and mine sounds like an atmos DV, just a little quieter
Its normal because it recirculates and is not atmospheric
And to answer your question in your other thread the Forge 007 is very good
if your used to jap stuff then, they will be at least 30% louder with dumpvalves / chatter.
diffrent set up!!
the lc & lcrs do make a nice echo sound with cone filters. and uprated dump valve! if they are remapped that again will make the noise louder!
my lcr has a K&N 57i cone vag tunning d/v and stage 1 remap boost to 20 psi..
makes a lush sound between changes.
BUT what im dieing to tell you is remove the bonnet insulation. it will make about a 20% diffrence in sound and **** pit noise.
but do the above for the best result.
some will tell you dont buy a k&n others will tell you by a green filter,& sum will say keep the standard air box and change there panel filter. each 2 there own mate.
but its myth about k&n oil wrecking your maf (before sum one else brings it up)
unless you soak it in a bucket of it. (little is more) hope this helps!
diffrent set up!!
the lc & lcrs do make a nice echo sound with cone filters. and uprated dump valve! if they are remapped that again will make the noise louder!
my lcr has a K&N 57i cone vag tunning d/v and stage 1 remap boost to 20 psi..
makes a lush sound between changes.
BUT what im dieing to tell you is remove the bonnet insulation. it will make about a 20% diffrence in sound and **** pit noise.
but do the above for the best result.
some will tell you dont buy a k&n others will tell you by a green filter,& sum will say keep the standard air box and change there panel filter. each 2 there own mate.
but its myth about k&n oil wrecking your maf (before sum one else brings it up)
unless you soak it in a bucket of it. (little is more) hope this helps!
kbrad44
Guest
I don't post much but do loads of reading on here.
The standard DV is quiet and known to be not very reliable compared to good aftermarket ones. As others have already mentioned the Forge 007 is the one to go for, but there are other options available. FYI the Forge 007 is a full recirculating DV which is what the 1.8T engine needs as they can't use fully atmospheric because it causes the ECU to throw up an error. You can use semi atmospheric like Turbosmart or SplitR (spelling) if you like a lot of noise. But the 007 through a open cone filter is well loud enough for me.
To prevent flaming I would suggest doing searches for DV in this forum as even I have lost count of how many times the subject has been asked lol.
Good luck with the car and Enjoy
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I love your accuracy with percentages.
Do you have actual evidence to prove it is 30% louder on jap cars, and not 31%???
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