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Get a FMIC, will make all the difference and sence in the long run,I would'nt dream of drilling holes or removing fogs, if yr gunna bother with an LCR and run it stage 2 why even contemplate cutting corners, fitting a FMIC isn't hard and as for tools go, try and borrow some. :givein:
 
Get a FMIC, will make all the difference and sence in the long run,I would'nt dream of drilling holes or removing fogs, if yr gunna bother with an LCR and run it stage 2 why even contemplate cutting corners, fitting a FMIC isn't hard and as for tools go, try and borrow some. :givein:

ya got a good point there really.
think i best get savin then n start playing the lottery :blink:
 
Another opition, The Audi TT 225 have vent cut into the arch liners as standerd, So you could swap them over, but as your at Stage 2 then a front mount makes sence
 
Not listed as "essential", but it is highly recommended.

I'm at stage 2, still running the original side mounts, i've been considering the front mount for a while.
I've been watching my intake air temp very carefully since i've gone stage 2 (i've got my scangauge set up on my dash set to constantly show intake air temp).

What i'd like to know before taking the plunge with buying the forge kit, is, what is the maximum intake temp you can reasonably run before your power starts suffering for it?
I'm yet to see a definitive answer on this - obviously cooler is better - but realistically, how much better?
 
hi mate, mine is standard but ive just done the FMIC and i noticed a difference, higher up in the rev range it use to drop off but now it pulls alot harder. so even a standard setup it makes a big difference so running stage 2 should be even better for it. hope that helps,
 
What i'm looking for is someone to come forward with figures...

What sort of temperature you're actually going to start losing power.

From what i've seen, the OE side mounts don't do a "bad" job anyway - one of the very first things I did when I got the car over 3yrs ago though, was to ditch the foglights so I do get as much air flow to them as possible.

I suppose really and truly, I want the front mount, but just can't seem to justify it at the moment when the sidemounts seem to be coping perfectly ok!
 
What i'm looking for is someone to come forward with figures...

What sort of temperature you're actually going to start losing power.

From what i've seen, the OE side mounts don't do a "bad" job anyway - one of the very first things I did when I got the car over 3yrs ago though, was to ditch the foglights so I do get as much air flow to them as possible.

I suppose really and truly, I want the front mount, but just can't seem to justify it at the moment when the sidemounts seem to be coping perfectly ok!

exactly how im feeling at the moment...an extra £700+ for something that MIGHT make a BIT of difference...

do you have to map the car to consider the FMIC?

my car is booked in for its stage 2 over the next day or 2...will i have to re-remap it?
 
I don't dispute it'll make a difference, there's enough before and after logs out there to prove it'll run cooler, and I could understand there being improved airflow through the intake system - although this'd be difficult to prove.

I just want someone to say you'll start to suffer if you're intake temp is more than "x degrees" because at the moment from what i've found with the OE coolers, i'm sure i'd probably be below that figure most the time!
 
ya got a good point there really.
think i best get savin then n start playing the lottery :blink:

Hi Guys

Just joined SCN, I fitted the Forge FMIC over 2 years ago before I went to stage 2 Revo, got it direct from Forge, great guys to deal with. Used the guide from their website and got some help from the old man, took us the afternoon to remove all the original parts and put the new crash bar, hoses and FMIC on, the hardest part was refitting the front bumber. If I can do it with a little help then anyone can.

Its a great kit as it looks factory, you don't need to cut anything about as its a straight swap.

Go for it fella.
 
i was told it will defo take the temps down just because the location is better and has direct contact with the air.
said it could take it down 30c which can increase the bhp by quite a lot.
its true what people have said y wud u want to hack away at ya car when u have spent a decent ammount on buying one and having a stage 2. think im gunna go for plus it looks awesome thru ya grill.
 
its true what people have said y wud u want to hack away at ya car when u have spent a decent ammount on buying one and having a stage 2. think im gunna go for plus it looks awesome thru ya grill.

i dont call slits cut into the arch liner hacking the car? anyways... FMIC at stage 2 would be the right way forward.

what power is it remapped to?
 
i dont call slits cut into the arch liner hacking the car? anyways... FMIC at stage 2 would be the right way forward.

what power is it remapped to?

no but they way i am with things it wud be more on the lines of butchering lol.

they said corrected power id be looking at 260/270ish with about 380nm torque.

dunno if its true but they showed me the temp and it was high and id only been driving 15min slowly too.
i have to say i noticed it was hot quite a while after but i just put it down to being normal.
 
I don't think there is a particular temp at which you start losing power, it's just that the cooler the intake, the more power you make. Hence people running those cryo intakes and peltiers. Whether it's a linear relationship, I don't know.

I'm sure Wilko said something with 3's and 10's in it. So he either said for every 3' drop you gain 10bhp OR every 10' gains 3 bhp. So worst case, a 30' drop would be about 10bhp gain.

Lower temps also allow you to run more timing, which will be a bigger advantage than just the cooler intake charge. Whether the 10bhp is just down to intake temp, or whether this would include winding the timing forward, I don't know.

Also, the stock intercoolers "do the job" but a good FMIC also hase lower pressure drop, so the turbo has to work less to keep the boost up, making it more efficient, putting less heat into the charge. I have seen some custom maps where they've taken advantage of this and upped the boost (keeping the boost at the turbo outlet the same), but I wouldn't go down that route.

For a guideline, if you look for figures for LCRs, have a look at the difference Nibbles made when his LCR was setup correctly - I think his car made 240 odd with the boost turned up, then 260 with it setup correctly.

There's something to be had.
 
Thanks Feel, good point about the lower pressure drop hence being less work for the turbo in the first place!
Makes sense too now about there not being a specific temperature, just that it'll get progressively worse.

Really and truly, the front mount is something I'd like to get done anyway, and ideally before the great British summer kicks in... But just needed some convincing that's all! I'll have a search for Nibbles results.
 
cheers feel, it was on something of the lines of that 3'2 n 10's.
they said to me was at the min your 246bhp and thats with your intake temp at 60c then on the print out it also said corrected bhp 270ish i no this isnt spot on but with a fmic this will get it close.

phatchoonz1 - what British Summer lol didnt realise we had one he he.