Anyone had any issues with rear wheel bearings on LCR.Mine are rumbling like mad originally thought it was tyre noise but have swapped wheels over from a mates car and it goes.Are they common?
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Not heard of anyone changing them on here.
My cars 100,000 miles on OEM ones, they get a hard time too
My cars 100,000 miles on OEM ones, they get a hard time too
rallycupra
Guest
Replaced the rear bearings on my LC about 2 years ago, that would've been around the 70k mark I think. Had a humming noise on the motorway which went away when you turned. Offside bearing had gone. Nearside was still okay but I just wanted to replace them in pairs.
What I did notice when the car was jacked up is that the wheel with the shot bearing spins a lot easier than the other side. LC and LCR rear wheel bearings are the same afaik. Fronts are different though
It does sound like a tyre issue you've got though as opposed to a bearing one.
One thing to check is that the dust cap in the centre of the hub is on correctly - if its damaged or not in right it lets water into the hub and knackers the bearings. Mine wasn't sitting in the hub properly, wish I'd noticed it!
What I did notice when the car was jacked up is that the wheel with the shot bearing spins a lot easier than the other side. LC and LCR rear wheel bearings are the same afaik. Fronts are different though
It does sound like a tyre issue you've got though as opposed to a bearing one.
One thing to check is that the dust cap in the centre of the hub is on correctly - if its damaged or not in right it lets water into the hub and knackers the bearings. Mine wasn't sitting in the hub properly, wish I'd noticed it!
Sorry i meant the noise was still there
.Mines done around 70k too plus ive got 20mm hubcentric spacers bolted on so think its killed them off.They look easy to change and im handy with spanners so just going to go for it.Thanks anyway
.Mines done around 70k too plus ive got 20mm hubcentric spacers bolted on so think its killed them off.They look easy to change and im handy with spanners so just going to go for it.Thanks anyway
Wish I'd taken pics when doing mine, unfortunately I was seriously pushed for time to get the job sorted.
First thing to remove (after the wheel and disc) is the dust cap in the centre of the hub - depending on where you source the new ones from you may not get a replacement cap in the kit, so be careful removing the old one, you might have to reuse it.
Be aware that in removing the old hub the bearing will be destroyed - half of it stays inside the hub, the other have stays on the axle. I also discovered that using a FBH applied to various locations around the back of the hub was invaluable in removing it. then it was a job for a gear puller to get in behind the remaining part of bearing to ease it off the axle.
The new bearing only comes as part of a shiny new hub, you'll need to swap the ABS sensor ring from the old hub to the new iirc.
The new hub comes with a new nyloc nut; to install it you basically get it on the axle then tighten down the nut which pushes it into location and then torque it. To make this part easier I used the old nut to get the hub on, then replaced it with the new one for torquing fully home.
Then its just a case of refitting the brakes and wheel, and repeating on the other side.
Simples!
First thing to remove (after the wheel and disc) is the dust cap in the centre of the hub - depending on where you source the new ones from you may not get a replacement cap in the kit, so be careful removing the old one, you might have to reuse it.
Be aware that in removing the old hub the bearing will be destroyed - half of it stays inside the hub, the other have stays on the axle. I also discovered that using a FBH applied to various locations around the back of the hub was invaluable in removing it. then it was a job for a gear puller to get in behind the remaining part of bearing to ease it off the axle.
The new bearing only comes as part of a shiny new hub, you'll need to swap the ABS sensor ring from the old hub to the new iirc.
The new hub comes with a new nyloc nut; to install it you basically get it on the axle then tighten down the nut which pushes it into location and then torque it. To make this part easier I used the old nut to get the hub on, then replaced it with the new one for torquing fully home.
Then its just a case of refitting the brakes and wheel, and repeating on the other side.
Simples!
Sounds expensive just to change the bearing.
Cheers Craig, top notch.
Take it FBH is Frickin Big Hammer??
Cheers Craig, top notch.
Take it FBH is Frickin Big Hammer??
Yeah - know problem with rears tyres - search for "50 pence". Could indicate your rear shocks are knackered.
I also had problems with rear wheel bearings. Involved oxy-acetylene and a big hammer (under warranty!).
Also, a rumbling from the backend turned out to be a shagged front wheel bearing on mine.
I also had problems with rear wheel bearings. Involved oxy-acetylene and a big hammer (under warranty!).
Also, a rumbling from the backend turned out to be a shagged front wheel bearing on mine.
I spent a stupid amount of time tracking down what was wrong, tyres, balancing, alignment checks etc etc. Eventually traced too the N/s rear shock absorber which 'hammered' the tyre into the shape of the 50p/piece.Sounded like wheel bearings but the noise was the same in straight lines and didn't get any worse when cornering which pointed me away from it being a bearing
I found an economical solution - Add £700 worth of Bilstein Coilovers
I found an economical solution - Add £700 worth of Bilstein Coilovers
Bargin :-D
God these sound like a mission to change was going to attempt it on my drive but sounds like doing them at work seems a better option.Are they Known for siezing on the hubs
was going to attempt it on my drive but sounds like doing them at work seems a better option.Are they Known for siezing on the hubsSimilar threads
