what have you done to your car today ?

[iammooks]

if you mean just the dipstick and tube then yeah you can do it anytime you want without draining, if you want to clean or replace the oil pickup then you need to drain the oil to drop the sump off the car, then remove the pickup, clean all the sump joining surfaces and on the block and reseal it with rtv, most people do it on these cars a preventative measure because of the dipstick, pcv and sludge blocking the pickup, i did it because of the tensioner rattle and thinking it wasnt building oil pressure quick enough , time will tell on that, takes 24hrs for sealant to dry before i can put oil in and start it up.

Reading my post back, yeah, I definitely wasn't clear there! It was definitely the dipstick I was asking about and not the sump. I have a feeling there's an oil leak coming from somewhere round there anyway, so will be good to check it's all healthy. I'll order a new dipstick holder and will save the sump and pickup for the next service when it's warmer.

MoT tomorrow. All the jobs I was planning on doing, I haven't done, so spring seats on the rear beam still need doing, along with all the rest. Would rather get it through the test though than spend money on things and then find I've got something that's not worth spending the money and time fixing. Really not in the mood for repairs and a re-test right now...


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[ExiledWeegie]

funny you quoting me in this the now, since i done the pickup pipe job my long term fuel trims have been creeping up, usually they are +-2% but mostly sit at 0.0% so perfect, but have been seeing -7% after the sump off job, have been picking my brains thinking ive not sealed the sump right so might be a vacuum leak but theres no oil getting out, thought maybe id disturbed something but nothing down there that i could see.

today with a break in the weather i found this on the back side of the n75, so its been a boost leak just by coincidence its happened when ive done the last job even though i wasnt near the n75. these cars eh...

 

[mty12345]

Reading my post back, yeah, I definitely wasn't clear there! It was definitely the dipstick I was asking about and not the sump. I have a feeling there's an oil leak coming from somewhere round there anyway, so will be good to check it's all healthy. I'll order a new dipstick holder and will save the sump and pickup for the next service when it's warmer.

MoT tomorrow. All the jobs I was planning on doing, I haven't done, so spring seats on the rear beam still need doing, along with all the rest. Would rather get it through the test though than spend money on things and then find I've got something that's not worth spending the money and time fixing. Really not in the mood for repairs and a re-test right now...


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Good luck, got mine in a couple of weeks too.

 

[iammooks]

Sorry everyone - looks like you'll have to put up with me for another year...


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[BadBoy03]

Good luck, got mine in a couple of weeks too.

Best of luck, I'm positive yours will fly through

 

[BadBoy03]

Sorry everyone - looks like you'll have to put up with me for another year...


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Grats Always good to hear that the roads are not rid of these beauties yet (although mine can only dream of being back on the road ).

 

[mty12345]

Best of luck, I'm positive yours will fly through

Cheers mate.

 

[iammooks]

I know, it needs a clean, but as my MoT says I need new rear springs, I'm weighing up my options as I've never felt the car sits right.

Keeping in mind this is a diesel, and so I understand the sump is lower and more susceptible to grounding on speed bumps etc. as well as the fact it's hard to get a jack under the car even on standard springs, what does everyone reckon? Just get some standard springs on the rear, or get some H&Rs or something, and have it on 25mm springs? I don't want it on the floor, but just look at the front - that can't be right?


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[paradyne]

Hi Ian, front end looks similar to mine with its wheel to arch gap...

Last MOT they found both broken rear springs and ended up getting them replaced - ironically that was a few months after the shocks were replaced all round. The brand that must have come off mine weren't original Seat and the car had a slightly certain lower stance to it which I liked, but damn my garage claimed to have issues sourcing direct replacement springs and the arse end of the car looks like it's on stilts now in comparison.

I wasn't too happy to say the least because I wish they'd given me more options to source H&R or Eibachs - I guess I'll have to live with it until funds permit.

So just beware standards on the rear, because they may take it back to the look of a 1.6s and not a sportier model.

 

[bruceR]

These cars always look too high on standard shocks/springs.
I ran with roach lowering springs on standard shocks for about 10years then upgraded to bilstein shocks / eibach springs and can’t rate them enough.
Granted I’ve got a shallow sump fitted (after I had a dose of spirited driving )


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[MoToJoJo]

I know, it needs a clean, but as my MoT says I need new rear springs, I'm weighing up my options as I've never felt the car sits right.

Keeping in mind this is a diesel, and so I understand the sump is lower and more susceptible to grounding on speed bumps etc. as well as the fact it's hard to get a jack under the car even on standard springs, what does everyone reckon? Just get some standard springs on the rear, or get some H&Rs or something, and have it on 25mm springs? I don't want it on the floor, but just look at the front - that can't be right?


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Tbh, a set of -25mm springs from a decent brand should be alright. Driving style is the usual take speed bumps either slowly and/or at an angle. There's the option to swap to the shallow sump as well, like Bruce did.

I run a normal sump but drive to protect it (fine for me, passengers... not so much)

 

[Alexis27]

Have developed a bit of an annoyance. I'm getting a pop-clunk when setting off from a standstill. It feels like something is under tension and releases with a short metallic pop and you can feel a tiny bit of vibration.

Sometimes it's instant when you set off and sometimes it's 1 or 2 seconds later.

Had these changed 4 weeks ago at its MOT and it's been fine until now:

• Offside Front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play (2.1.3 (b) (i))
• Nearside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))

Have had a nosy at the suspension with a torch and everything I can reach seems tight enough. Wheels are good and tight.

Anybody ever had anything similar?

 

[Nam-uk]

Have developed a bit of an annoyance. I'm getting a pop-clunk when setting off from a standstill. It feels like something is under tension and releases with a short metallic pop and you can feel a tiny bit of vibration.

Sometimes it's instant when you set off and sometimes it's 1 or 2 seconds later.

Had these changed 4 weeks ago at its MOT and it's been fine until now:

• Offside Front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play (2.1.3 (b) (i))
• Nearside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))

Have had a nosy at the suspension with a torch and everything I can reach seems tight enough. Wheels are good and tight.

Anybody ever had anything similar?

Do you get a clunk or feel like you put brakes on when turning the steering wheel? As that will be the cv joint

 

[Alexis27]

Do you get a clunk or feel like you put brakes on when turning the steering wheel? As that will be the cv joint

Thanks. No, steering is fine.
Starting to think it might be brakes. Does feel like when it's been standing for a while and the discs have rusted. Will check the temps of the discs after a run.
Also doesn't do it in reverse.

 

[BadBoy03]

Thanks. No, steering is fine.
Starting to think it might be brakes. Does feel like when it's been standing for a while and the discs have rusted. Will check the temps of the discs after a run.
Also doesn't do it in reverse.

I had a stretched handbrake cable once, making a delayed clunk as it released/car moved.

 

[Alexis27]

Ah, that could be a clue. The handbrake is loose as anything and I keep meaning to tighten it. Just bought the tool, so I'll give that a try.

 

[Nam-uk]

Cupra owners check your road tax as ive just read and going to watch a vid over new road tax rises .. that Socialist Fabien labour and that slag reeves upped the road tax for older cars, Mad Ed and net zero crap

 

[Alexis27]

Cupra owners check your road tax as ive just read and going to watch a vid over new road tax rises .. that Socialist Fabien labour and that slag reeves upped the road tax for older cars, Mad Ed and net zero crap

Don't worry. It's just the Audi Quattro BAM that kicks out 228g/km and is a higher band.

Has a smaller cat than ours.

Cupra emits 204g/km and the R 211g/km

So just the usual £30 or so annual increase.

 

[Battoussai]

Hi all. Just bought SKF CV Joint Boot for both sides. So I guess I will have to realign steering again.... hate spending money on alignment.

 

[Nam-uk]

Don't worry. It's just the Audi Quattro BAM that kicks out 228g/km and is a higher band.

Has a smaller cat than ours.

Cupra emits 204g/km and the R 211g/km

So just the usual £30 or so annual increase.

Still out of order .. she really is a narcissist and none of them achieved in life in liebour and when price people out of a older car that’s works fine not very green that, I won’t mind I bet there’s not many around anyway so it’s not going to add to the coffers as they have given billions away like that climate aid in Africa..

A mate had a audi A4 with same engine as mine and just because it was a 1997 card the tax was huge, aluminium body also, zero rust