AFR Gauge on AGU

[Robbie C]

Dragging up an old thread but I'm shortly looking at getting a wideband setup, probably using a VEI gauge as per http://www.veisystems.com/uva-m.html (as I want to run this in a Cupra R gauge holder alongside http://www.veisystems.com/d1-opmotf-m.html)

So, using this gauge what do people recommend as a good quality accurate controller? I see Hooch went for the ZT-2 whereas Phil chose the Innovate LC-1. Anyone got any preference or should either be fine?

 

[pj1985]

Why not just get the Vems? Its all in the gauge so needs no controller, has EGT as a bonus if you want to use it and fits in the Ibiza Cupra R pod fine.

 

[Robbie C]

Hmm I had looked at the VEMS but exchange rates being what they are it works out just as much if not more than the above options and being a style wh0re I'd like to have matching gauges for Oil Pressure and Oil Temp, hence http://www.veisystems.com/d1-opmotf-m.html (the only bugger there being it's not in Deg C)

I'm assuming the analog 0-5v output is just as accurate as digital?

 

[ibizacupra]

Vems wideband is £280, optional EGT is £85

inc vat
I am a uk dealer for them now btw

 

[Robbie C]

Cheers Bill. I think I'm swaying towards the Zeitronix ZT2 with the VEI AFR Gauge (http://www.veisystems.com/uva-m.html) using the analog output (purely because I want a matching pair of gauges).

Speaking to Phil and reading a few forum threads on the net seems to suggest that the Innovate controllers are very tempermental with bad earths and overheating.

One other thing that did come up was the choice of sensor - NGK NTK or the Bosch LSU-4. I guess if the LSU-4 is good enough for VEMS...

 

[ibizacupra]

LSU-4 is what I use on my Zeitronix.. good enough for bosch good enough for me (and vems)

 

[Robbie C]

OK I eventually opted for the VEI AFR guage (http://www.veisystems.com/uva-m.html) with the Zeitronix ZT-2 controller and Bosch LSU-4 sensor and have got it all up and running but with one issue - the light wire that controls the variable brightness is making the gauge flicker.

As per the installation instructions:

GREEN -- connect this wire to the positive line (+12V) from the headlight switch. When this line receives a positive voltage, the gauge will use the “park-lights” brightness setting. Alternatively, if setting up a racing-mode display, this can be connected to a
separate mode switch (12V or 0V signal).

So I've wired the green wire into the backlight positive on the headlight switch as shown here:

With this plugged in the gauge flickers unless the brightness/voltage is set to max or min. Also, it is inverted - when I increase the dash light voltage the gauge dims and vice versa.

With it unplugged, the gauge is fine. I have a boost gauge plumbed into the same headlight positive which works as expected so I'm wondering if there's something specific to US electrical standards in the gauge that's causing an issue?

Does anyone have any ideas?

 

[Robbie C]

I emailed VEI Systems this morning for their input who replied with:

Hi Rob,

The green wire is not a variable brightness, but a brightness switch. The
gauge will normally use the "br" brightness setting, but when it detects a
voltage on the green wire, it switch to the "bp" setting. This is so when
you switch on the park lights at night, you can dim the gauge.

Generally you should connect the green wire to the park lights, or the
switch that controls the park lights. Or headlights if you want it to
change then.

In many cases you can connect it to an interior dashboard light as those
come on when you turn on the park lights, but on newer cars those dash
lights have a dimmer that is controlled by PWM (so it continuously pulses,
and the on-time vs. off-time of the pulse will determine the brightness).
You cannot generally use the dash lights in this case as it will cause the
gauge to flicker, so you'll need to use the direct park-light connection
then.

This will also solve the inverted problem. Thanks.

Martin.

So if I want this to work correctly I guess I need to solder the green wire into my headlight positive wire as opposed to the backlight positive that I've used as per the above pic. Not that I'm particularly bothered in differing the brightness when the lights comes on if I'm perfectly honest, good to get some clarification though

 

[Robbie C]

This PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) would also explain why some Leon drivers in particular seem to notice that their window switches pulsate when the brightness is set to maximum if the dimmer switch is (excuse the pun) on the blink.

 

[phil_m]

I would still connect the wire Rob, as when i turn my lights off at night the gauge becomes extremely bright.

 

[Robbie C]

Hmmm wouldn't take long for me to sort I guess. So is yours connected to the headlight positive I take it then Phil?

 

[phil_m]

Hmmm wouldn't take long for me to sort I guess. So is yours connected to the headlight positive I take it then Phil?

Yes mate i think i connected mine to the back of the switch..

 

[Robbie C]

Nice one, thanks

 

[joehirth]

Right, my turn to bring this thread back. I've been looking at this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Zeitronix-wid...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1af2d2dc

Has anyone used it before, looks really good and love the style, looking to do some kind of custom install maybe around the OEM headunit (I've done the headunit conversion so everything's removed from behind the facia radio/ climate control panel.

Cheers

Joe

 

[ibizacupra]

this is what i run in my ibiza for a zilion years so far
good kit

 

[joehirth]

Bill/ Rob where did you wire the rev wires into?

 

[Robbie C]

I've not got the LCD display Joe - only the ZT-2 control box which I've just wired into my wideband gauge. Bill is your man here

 

[joehirth]

Rob, do you not use the datalogging software though? I assume that you got that with yours? I think it is best that I wire it in so that when I do logs and things I have something to look at.

 

[Robbie C]

I've never used it to date, no. I've connected the serial cable and wired it through to under the steering wheel so I can connect a laptop if needed but not something I've explored to date.

I probably ought to as there's a lot the ZT-2 can do that I'm not currently utilising

 

[wild willy]

Can the stock LCR wideband lamda sensor at the DP be used with this (VEI)gauge (black wire i believe) and can i assume it will be as accurate as any stand alone probe. Its a ball ache to remove the DP to drill and weld plus this is cheaper.