drum brakes seized up

[boomhauwer]

hello,

had a little problem earlier this evening, my rear right drum made a squeeky sound so I jacked up the car and you could hardly rotate the wheel.

took the wheel of, took the boltcap of (just didn't had a 12 sided nut to go over it... darn or else I could take the drum of as well...)
but then I hit the drum with a hammer (with care...) and lots of black powder/chunkie bits fell out of it
afterwards the wheel rotated much better
that was an emergency fix because I had to get home...

now my question is:
-how can I prevent this from happening again?
-Should I replace the drums/pads?
-If I should replace them, should I also replace the piston assembly (suggested by a dealer, seams quite ridiculous too me...)

is it possible to change it to discs...
what do you need:
-hoses
-calipers+pads
-discs
rear axle is the same (according to etka)
but is it possible?

 

[cheshire cat]

sounds like both sides need stripping and cleaning + a little copperslip you only need to change the cylinders if they're leaking---- prise back the dust boots to check properly----dust is one thing but bits sounds like the linings are breaking up or have become unbonded and will need replacing if so----re the discs, any thing is possible but is it worth the cost and effort rear brakes don't work that hard

 

[sssstew]

yep agreed with Cheshire here on all aspects.

 

[Seatmann]

rear brakes don't work that hard

I thought the same but apparently vag cars with abs are actually bias toward the rear and the fronts only really come in to it when you brake hard, that's why our cars never nose dive. I replaced everything in the rear, drums, shoes, cylinders etc and my brakes are a lot better, don't need to be so hard on the pedal.

 

[boomhauwer]

sounds like both sides need stripping and cleaning + a little copperslip you only need to change the cylinders if they're leaking---- prise back the dust boots to check properly----dust is one thing but bits sounds like the linings are breaking up or have become unbonded and will need replacing if so----re the discs, any thing is possible but is it worth the cost and effort rear brakes don't work that hard

for what do you use the copperslip (is it grease you mean? sorry, English is not my motherlanguage)
do you mean something like this:

I will have a check as soon as possible!
thanks for the advice, sorry for the typos!

 

[Seatmann]

Yeh that's the sort of thing

 

[cheshire cat]

that looks like rust, is that moisture in there or brake fluid (sprayed around)? copperslip is a copper rich grease which is good for metal to metal rubbing parts you must have something similar over there p.s. have a KWAK for me

 

[boomhauwer]

that looks like rust, is that moisture in there or brake fluid (sprayed around)? copperslip is a copper rich grease which is good for metal to metal rubbing parts you must have something similar over there p.s. have a KWAK for me

that's not my car in the pic, that is a old 2CV from citroen. just used the pic for example

 

[boomhauwer]

had another question

at what torque should the center nut be tightened?

what to do when you don't get drum of, I got the center nut loose, and I could move the drum a little bit, but didn't got it of.

what to do?

 

[cheshire cat]

the centre nut torque is 175Nm and should be a new nut: if you don't have a puller you could try a hammer tap around the rim of the drum then start tapping off then after 1cm back on then repeat as needed----if you don't feel confident I would replace the nut and try a garage best of luck