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After feicing around all day looking for the correct measurements of O-Ring for the LCR injectors, i found they are cheaply available on the net, they are type BS203 3.53mm Section 7.52mm Bore.
A quick google of BS203 O-ring will get you the right one.
I know its an old thread but other peeps might come across it.
A quick google of BS203 O-ring will get you the right one.
I know its an old thread but other peeps might come across it.
Good find and very useful info, this should be put in the part numbers sticky.
http://www.polymax.co.uk/acatalog/Viton_O-Rings_BS201_-_BS284.html
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Could do with some myself how many of that size is needed robbie for a full change ? Thanks
just order them from the dealer, correct part, manufactures warrenty and there like a tenner for ten. (packs of 5)
thats true, but they are a stanard O-ring and like 10p each, rather that £2 the each that the dealer charges.
Yeah, if you have more money than sense! They're the same size top and bottom. Pay NO MORE THAN £2 for a set of 8. There is no warranty from the dealer on any part that isn't fitted by them. £2 DIY from a motor factor, £10 DIY with no warranty from the dealer or £100+ for the dealer to do it so you have a years warranty on 8 shiny new rubber bands. I know which one I'd choose.
Cheers guys I'm just going to order 8 from that website link above and the size given....sure they will be fine
All parts from any manufacturer come with a warranty that covers manufacturing defects,
only if a part has failed by improper fitment or reasonable wear and tear will you lose out,
Reasonable is determined by the manufactuer however,
IMO I know from my experience that dealer parts are of better quality than cheaper patterns,
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only if a part has failed by improper fitment or reasonable wear and tear will you lose out,
Reasonable is determined by the manufactuer however,
IMO I know from my experience that dealer parts are of better quality than cheaper patterns,
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The only time a manufacturing fault warranty will be honoured is if it's professionally fitted, ie; by the dealer. Is it really worth the extra hassle and expense to have a 1 year warranty on a 10p o-ring that comes from the same manufacturer that supplies vag? All you're missing is the sticker on the bag.
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the inserts weaken/stretch over time and dont seal as well on the o rings, also causeing the same mess as leaky orings. however, a 20mm allen key, (or a bolt machined(filled) down to 20mm) and a quick trip to the dealers (cost me about 70p each), will enable the removal and fitment of the inserts/injector seats. they can be very very tight tho, and ive noticed some have what appears to be thread lock on them, but i fit them dry and never had a problem. drips of thread lock on valves could be bad.
good luck finding pattern parts of those tho, seen as some people clearly have the need not to buy the equipment that was manufactured for the car! dont get me wrong, some aftermarket stuff is a major improvement on the OE stuff. but majority of the pattern stuff out there is not up to the quality that a performance car requires to be safe.
cupraross...sorry but NO ONE who isnt a professional should be working on cars. a 'kerb side wheel mechanic' is a dangerous thing. a diy job by a clueless person is just as dangerous as leaving the car to rot and still driving it. Cars carry a lot of momentum, and can kill many many people. they should only be worked on by people who have been appropriately trained!
try breaking things less often then maybe you wouldnt mind paying for quality (which in this life rarely comes cheap)
good luck finding pattern parts of those tho, seen as some people clearly have the need not to buy the equipment that was manufactured for the car! dont get me wrong, some aftermarket stuff is a major improvement on the OE stuff. but majority of the pattern stuff out there is not up to the quality that a performance car requires to be safe.
cupraross...sorry but NO ONE who isnt a professional should be working on cars. a 'kerb side wheel mechanic' is a dangerous thing. a diy job by a clueless person is just as dangerous as leaving the car to rot and still driving it. Cars carry a lot of momentum, and can kill many many people. they should only be worked on by people who have been appropriately trained!
try breaking things less often then maybe you wouldnt mind paying for quality (which in this life rarely comes cheap)
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Hmmm, yes, I can see that a city and guilds in mechanical engineering is an absolute requirement for changing 8 slip-on rubber bands on a set of injectors. Please, stay in touch with reality.
I've been working on my cars for the last 15 years, not because I'm tight but because I do a better job than the idiots at the dealers. I know the quality of what is being fitted and I know I'll take better care of my own car than somebody who's getting paid a shade over minimum wage to do it. Most importantly, I know the job has actually been done, when it comes to servicing, a stamp in a book is nothing more than ink on paper.
I've been working on my cars for the last 15 years, not because I'm tight but because I do a better job than the idiots at the dealers. I know the quality of what is being fitted and I know I'll take better care of my own car than somebody who's getting paid a shade over minimum wage to do it. Most importantly, I know the job has actually been done, when it comes to servicing, a stamp in a book is nothing more than ink on paper.
I'm not gettin at you specifically, If you know your stuff then you'll be on my side here anyway, if you have been working on cars for over a decade then you will know exactly what my point is, a good 90% of the time, your better off spending a few quid more on quality parts! In the case of these seals, how do you know that they will last the 110k that the original ones have? Are they the same compound of rubber? As resistant to heat, petrol and oil?
I live in reality, the real one, where doing things by half only half fixes it, or lasts half as long, the one where if a cheap part fails every yr, and one twice the price lasts 4 times as long, then for the high original outlay it works out actually cheaper. nothing worse than fitting a new part and 4 months later changing the same part!
I agree, a stamp is just that, dealers are overrated for fitting things and shady just over min wage garages are just that, shady!
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I live in reality, the real one, where doing things by half only half fixes it, or lasts half as long, the one where if a cheap part fails every yr, and one twice the price lasts 4 times as long, then for the high original outlay it works out actually cheaper. nothing worse than fitting a new part and 4 months later changing the same part!
I agree, a stamp is just that, dealers are overrated for fitting things and shady just over min wage garages are just that, shady!
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Just noticed mine are leaking along with a few other things wrong on my car!
Is this a tough job to do? Basic mechanical capabilities here lol.
Is this a tough job to do? Basic mechanical capabilities here lol.
Not being rude, so please don't think I am...
Have a look at the injector set up, if you can work out how to change the 8 seals and 4 seats then you'll be able to, if not please seek assistance
Tools are basically a std socket set and either a 20mm Allen key, or a 21mm bolt filed down to 20mm and a pair of vice grips or stilsens
Put aside between 30 mins and 5hrs depending on how fanatical you get about cleaning! Lol
Enjoy
Sent from my HTC Wildfire S using Tapatalk 2
Have a look at the injector set up, if you can work out how to change the 8 seals and 4 seats then you'll be able to, if not please seek assistance
Tools are basically a std socket set and either a 20mm Allen key, or a 21mm bolt filed down to 20mm and a pair of vice grips or stilsens
Put aside between 30 mins and 5hrs depending on how fanatical you get about cleaning! Lol
Enjoy
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Lol no offence taken bud.
Is it the same set up on the mk3 as to the mk4 as that's what i have
Thanks
Danny
Is it the same set up on the mk3 as to the mk4 as that's what i have
Thanks
Danny
Is it a 1.8l 20vt? If it is then Yeh. It's an easy job. If your only cleaning the inlet then it won't take long, remember to let nothing fall in the holes. small chips of stone/grit can cause damage from scoring the bore to bending a valve and also it has to leave via the turbos propeller wheel
Add a couple screwdrivers to the tools, incase you have to shift any evap pipes, lol
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Add a couple screwdrivers to the tools, incase you have to shift any evap pipes, lol
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