I like the aggression of the R, but i genuinely love the top sport bumper. Especially with a good wide stance.
Best thing you can do is to just take your time and make sure you have plenty of light whilst doing it. Get WD where you can and just take your time. I took any pipes off that might restrict access and I'm pretty sure all I needed was an allen key and a hex socket with an extension for 1 or 2 bolts and a spanner. Be careful with the pipe going from the EGR to the inlet, as that's the only bolt that went on me from being careless. Once off I blasted with oven cleaner, left it to soak, then washed away the foam and started burning inside of the inlet to break away the deposits. Overall a really easy job though once you know where you're going
If the R bumper that I had was in a good condition and the foglights were working for it, then I genuinely would have never of changed the bumper, but I've always been drawn to the TS bumper and this one just came up at the right price where as the R ones will always go for around the 200-300 mark. Envy anyone who has an R though, or the petrol and diesel TS, just unfortunately my circumstances won't allow for that kind of performance, that doesn't mean I won't try and get what I can out of this lump though
Just came across this post, and it looks like I have your SE's brother AK02 DZE, Also a SE 110 
. Only picked it up two weekends ago. Mine needs a bit of work, but I'll get her there in the end!
Also to add, does it still feel like your turbo is spooling slow? I had that problem when i first picked mine up and found it was a split on the end of the pipe at the vacuum tank (think that's what it's called). Just cropped the pipe for the time being and ordering a new one. Could be the same, or at least a split pipe near the N75 module.
. Only picked it up two weekends ago. Mine needs a bit of work, but I'll get her there in the end!Also to add, does it still feel like your turbo is spooling slow? I had that problem when i first picked mine up and found it was a split on the end of the pipe at the vacuum tank (think that's what it's called). Just cropped the pipe for the time being and ordering a new one. Could be the same, or at least a split pipe near the N75 module.
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I also have a Red SE 110, but mine is a 2003 and has most of the clear coat peeling off the bumper, door mirrors and handles. Speaking of mirrors I much prefer the ones on the 02 cars, mine are the tear drop which are harder to use when reversing.
As for your boost problems, it can depend on what type of remap was done and now aggressive it is. If you have access to VCDS try logging the requested and actual boost while driving.
As for your boost problems, it can depend on what type of remap was done and now aggressive it is. If you have access to VCDS try logging the requested and actual boost while driving.
Just came across this post, and it looks like I have your SE's brother AK02 DZE, Also a SE 110
Also to add, does it still feel like your turbo is spooling slow? I had that problem when i first picked mine up and found it was a split on the end of the pipe at the vacuum tank (think that's what it's called). Just cropped the pipe for the time being and ordering a new one. Could be the same, or at least a split pipe near the N75 module.
Wahey! Reuniting the family! Think yours has definitely had an easier life than mine
Lovely cars though, and the 110 has a nice grunty, no frills feel to it which I love
Yes, that's sort of what it feels like, seems to be even a slight incline and it just doesn't have any go at all, doesn't really feel like I can overtake anything safely most of the time. Even gave it a booting down a straight and someone's from work 1.1 Mitsubishi Colt kept up to 60
I'll have to give it a look over where you've said, as honestly I haven't really checked over the pipework for any perishes or rips as most of the time I can't be bothered haha. Love your car though, wish mine had the standard body kit sometimes just so I wouldn't have had to fiddle around making mine fit
That’s mad what are the chances lolJust came across this post, and it looks like I have your SE's brother AK02 DZE, Also a SE 110
Also to add, does it still feel like your turbo is spooling slow? I had that problem when i first picked mine up and found it was a split on the end of the pipe at the vacuum tank (think that's what it's called). Just cropped the pipe for the time being and ordering a new one. Could be the same, or at least a split pipe near the N75 module.
Ah don't worry about the lacquer coming off matey, I've had to respray a fair few panels on mine to make it look presentable, only one I'm not messing with now is the passenger wing as it needs replacing due to a big dent in it! And I actually like the teardrops, think they're a little more sporty looking!
And I think the map might well be a cheap one, I brought the car completely standard apart from a poorly fitted body kit and white Cupra alloys, the guy didn't know a lot about cars or fixing them, didn't have an MOT certificate (He'd had a dodgy MOT put on it, I'd checked the online history and it came up that it had no defects or advisories, but the guy told me it had a dodgy track rod and some other bs, it didn't, but it did have a completely shagged wheel bearing which definitely wouldn't have passed an MOT) and he had no proof of a remap but assured me it had been, and from the type of guy he was I would have put money that he'd of just opted for the most aggressive MAP he could get out of it. I'll get it remapped eventually once I've researched enough on nozzles and got them in, until then I'm just biding my time and living with it.
Wahey! Reuniting the family! Think yours has definitely had an easier life than mine
Lovely cars though, and the 110 has a nice grunty, no frills feel to it which I love
Yes, that's sort of what it feels like, seems to be even a slight incline and it just doesn't have any go at all, doesn't really feel like I can overtake anything safely most of the time. Even gave it a booting down a straight and someone's from work 1.1 Mitsubishi Colt kept up to 60
Mine does look like it's had an easy 200k miles, I've been looking into getting an LCR body kit for it especially after seeing it on your one and wrapping metallic it red as the paint is peeling on the front and rear. How hard is the swap over if it's worth it at all that is? I'm thinking of putting it onto coilovers since it's just on lowering springs at the moment (which are corroded pretty badly). We'd deffo have to get these two reunited at somepoint! Good luck with the fault finding, I'll try and get the link to some diagrams on another thread which helped me get to my fault. Found the fault accidentally to be honest since my brake servo wasn't holding a vacuum too well and was going hard. I just thought the 110 was slow until I fixed the leak
Literally came onto the Mk 1 section to see what people have done with their Leon's and had to double check it wasn't my car from the plate
![[B)]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/shades.gif "Cool [B)]")
Mine does look like it's had an easy 200k miles, I've been looking into getting an LCR body kit for it especially after seeing it on your one and wrapping metallic it red as the paint is peeling on the front and rear. How hard is the swap over if it's worth it at all that is? I'm thinking of putting it onto coilovers since it's just on lowering springs at the moment (which are corroded pretty badly). We'd deffo have to get these two reunited at somepoint! Good luck with the fault finding, I'll try and get the link to some diagrams on another thread which helped me get to my fault. Found the fault accidentally to be honest since my brake servo wasn't holding a vacuum too well and was going hard. I just thought the 110 was slow until I fixed the leak
Urm, on the LCR one it's literally (for me at least) Was two bolts at the side of the bumper connected to the wing, 3 bolts underneath the bumper (splitter will be in the way most likely) and then there's little push in tabs under the bonnet that are easy to get in and out. There should be guides on the bumper and in the wing which should slot together, on my R bumper it had no guides on the bumper itself but had them in the wing, so stuck out a mile. On my TS bumper it's a different guide to the one on the R I think? I kind of just bodged this new one on if I'm honest but thankfully it's fitted quite well. Mines just on lowering springs and standard new shocks, probably going to uprate the shocks as the rides very crashy! Have you had to change your ARB? Mine literally grates against the driveshaft on a right hand lock and it's driving me spare trying to find a replacement ARB! And I'll find you a photo of what red you should go! Not sure if he's a member on here but I've seen his car on Facebook and it's been sprayed metallic red and it looks ace! I'm not looking forward to finding the fault if I'm honest, like p*ssing in the wind with boost leaks
Urm, on the LCR one it's literally (for me at least) Was two bolts at the side of the bumper connected to the wing, 3 bolts underneath the bumper (splitter will be in the way most likely) and then there's little push in tabs under the bonnet that are easy to get in and out. There should be guides on the bumper and in the wing which should slot together, on my R bumper it had no guides on the bumper itself but had them in the wing, so stuck out a mile. On my TS bumper it's a different guide to the one on the R I think? I kind of just bodged this new one on if I'm honest but thankfully it's fitted quite well. Mines just on lowering springs and standard new shocks, probably going to uprate the shocks as the rides very crashy! Have you had to change your ARB? Mine literally grates against the driveshaft on a right hand lock and it's driving me spare trying to find a replacement ARB! And I'll find you a photo of what red you should go! Not sure if he's a member on here but I've seen his car on Facebook and it's been sprayed metallic red and it looks ace! I'm not looking forward to finding the fault if I'm honest, like p*ssing in the wind with boost leaks
Well if it's not too hard I'll try swapping the bumpers out ready for the wrap
. I don't think the ARB has been swapped out since I hear it scraping frequently, will be the first thing to fix after the MOT next month. Will keep you posted if I find a good replacement. The suspension being lowered isn't too bad, handles well but feels a bit bouncy at times when bombing it down the A13 / A127 
. I know the feeling with the boost leaks, mine I wouldn't have guessed, wasn't even split in a place I would be able to feel / see. Literally tried to pull it off to check it and found half of the pipe was still attached .
Well if it's not too hard I'll try swapping the bumpers out ready for the wrap
As a nice bit of inspiration on colour
I seem to have a lot of trouble keeping it in a straight line once I hit around the 100 mark, wheel shakes like crazy and the car just starts to feel unstable, more things to add to the lists of things that need fixing
Best thing you can do is to just take your time and make sure you have plenty of light whilst doing it. Get WD where you can and just take your time. I took any pipes off that might restrict access and I'm pretty sure all I needed was an allen key and a hex socket with an extension for 1 or 2 bolts and a spanner. Be careful with the pipe going from the EGR to the inlet, as that's the only bolt that went on me from being careless. Once off I blasted with oven cleaner, left it to soak, then washed away the foam and started burning inside of the inlet to break away the deposits. Overall a really easy job though once you know where you're going
Thanks for this - I've read in a few places that it's a good idea to take the air intake pipe off as it gives you more room to work, so I'll give that a go eventually. I already cleaned the throttle body earlier in the year, so that's part of the job done, but it's more the fear of taking off bolts that won't have been touched in fifteen years and shearing something off - the job itself sounds simple enough - it's the prospect of having to remove a snapped bolt where there's no room to get anything in there.
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Just take your time with the bolts, loosen then tighten if you think the bolt might give way, if you can't do that just try blasting it with WD. Is yours a diesel or a petrol? If it's a petrol I wouldn't think there's much reason to clean the inlet, as they don't have the carbon problem that diesels do, if it is a diesel, the throttle body you cleaned was actually the EGR, diesels don't work like petrol, the air is constant, the throttle is controlled by the volume of fuel. Hope this helps
Have you worked the actuator arm on the turbo when cleaning it out?
When i had to do the clean out on my old PD engine i noticed the arm had lost about 1/2 inch of movement due to crap in the turbo.
Made the world of difference once id figured it out.
Rich
When i had to do the clean out on my old PD engine i noticed the arm had lost about 1/2 inch of movement due to crap in the turbo.
Made the world of difference once id figured it out.
Rich
Yes I did, though I remember when I actually did the treatment on the turbo I never fully got to finish the job as I had to go out so I just cleaned out when I could and then went on my way. It did make the problem better but never fully solved the problem with it going into limp until it went on a long 4 hour blast down the motorway. It hasn't gone into limp since, but it just seems to struggle, like anything past 60 and the car feels like it's gutless, just really strange.
So...
Tomorrow's project
TT ARB and a Mr. Muscle turbo clean whilst I'm under there. Couldn't deal with the ARB hitting the shaft anymore and since this does a fair journey to work and carries a child 70% of the time I couldn't afford for the unreliability of the driveshaft snapping on me and didn't want to run without one. Haven't seen any official guides to fitting the TT ARB so I'm going to get some pictures and upload them on my progress to help anyone who might need it in the present or future. I might do this with all future jobs and include a full read up and tools needed as I like to know what's needed a job before going in deep with it. Going to try and see if the turbo will free up a bit more as I can't imagine this will be a quick job with dropping the subframe and everything, plus I've got the week off so if I need to get any extras I've got plenty of time to do it!
Tomorrow's project
TT ARB and a Mr. Muscle turbo clean whilst I'm under there. Couldn't deal with the ARB hitting the shaft anymore and since this does a fair journey to work and carries a child 70% of the time I couldn't afford for the unreliability of the driveshaft snapping on me and didn't want to run without one. Haven't seen any official guides to fitting the TT ARB so I'm going to get some pictures and upload them on my progress to help anyone who might need it in the present or future. I might do this with all future jobs and include a full read up and tools needed as I like to know what's needed a job before going in deep with it. Going to try and see if the turbo will free up a bit more as I can't imagine this will be a quick job with dropping the subframe and everything, plus I've got the week off so if I need to get any extras I've got plenty of time to do it!
So...
Tomorrow's project
TT ARB and a Mr. Muscle turbo clean whilst I'm under there. Couldn't deal with the ARB hitting the shaft anymore and since this does a fair journey to work and carries a child 70% of the time I couldn't afford for the unreliability of the driveshaft snapping on me and didn't want to run without one. Haven't seen any official guides to fitting the TT ARB so I'm going to get some pictures and upload them on my progress to help anyone who might need it in the present or future. I might do this with all future jobs and include a full read up and tools needed as I like to know what's needed a job before going in deep with it. Going to try and see if the turbo will free up a bit more as I can't imagine this will be a quick job with dropping the subframe and everything, plus I've got the week off so if I need to get any extras I've got plenty of time to do it!
Not sure what your setup is, but TT/LCR front end set up is different.
If you have the non R setup you'll need the following to make the change:
-Cupra R coilovers - for the droplink mount
-TT/LCR droplinks
-Measure your new ARB diamater against your old one, and get the matching ARB bushes
The job requires dropping the subframe
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