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well logged 356g/s through the maf this morning, at 7000rpm, and at this is was holding 22 deg btdc with no cfs.
Should have it mapped this week, so may see a bit more, and should certainly see more timing.

It is, to be honest, undriveable in anything below forth which doesn't hit boost until 75mph. It will drop out of boost if you change up at the limiter in 1st to second, unless you flat shift. In the right gear on a dual carriageway playing with a big bike it's going to be funny, but it'd not a very good fast road car.
Unless you are in exactly the right gear, it will get walked on by a diesel mondeo.

I'm sure riding a big bike probably feels a bit like this does in boost.

Second gear spins drag radials to the limiter on grippy tarmac in warm weather. This is with a diff. Third is weaving trying to find traction.

I really wouldn't do this unless you have something like my daily driver to fall back on for normal, quick driving.

Would I do it again?
Probably!
But then I'm an idiot.


How the hell bills will cope with a gt35 in a striped ibeza, god only knows.
I'm convinced gt 3071 on something like the pag parts mani is the way to go on the 1.8t.


mapped mine and am surprised how much timing it is taking..
32 degrees will at 7000rpm and 28 degrees at 9000rpm on just VPower not wmi or anything..
its stupid... insane stupid power delivery..

'smokin
 
I'm not saying you're wrong about the IHI's power, but the thing is, I'm getting mixed messages....

One minute I'm being told that Owen Developments know what they are doing and that their power claims are accurate, but then when I point out the Owen claim the VF34 P20 is good for 370bhp I'm then told that the IHI is only good for 330bhp.

Also Wilko, if you're basing the 320-330bhp on your car, remember that we both went to the same rolling road day (Where was that???) and mine produced exactly 360bhp whilst yours produced something like 325bhp (I think).... so it appears mine really was producing about 30-35bhp more than yours (Thats if my memory is correct.).

I still don't get how rollers can give too high readings.... especially inertia rollers. The maths is quite simple, so unless someone has the mass of the rollers wrong they should give a reading that's either accurate or too low, but never too high (I'm talking at the wheels here, not the flywheel).

Don't get me wrong, I'm not disagreeing with anyone, I'm just trying to understand it for myself.

Thanks
Ben


dyno Lottery Ben..
run on several and get several different results.. thats just how it is.
 
I've found DD very consistent dyno's if you run in shoot 44 mode and use whp.It's also very easy to predict 1/4 times and terminals.Ben go on the jkm RR day.
 
Spot on. The vf34 made 325-330 on awesome dynojet verses 360-365 for the 18g. The vf34 is a 330hp turbo max. The 18g is good for 360+

By the way the owens 475 unit is laggy as, 1 bar by 4400, but fully spooled (30lb) by low 5's and holds 28lb at 7800rpm on a big port with cams

Massively faster than the vf34 or 18g, but it's bloomin dangerous in a 1350kg golf, so in an ibeza you'd die fairly soon.

Did I hear @ Inters your Owens unit has suffered damage during mapping John? :headhurt: :cry: :(
 
Don't know yet bill. Cylinder 3 melted, after misfiring for a second near the limiter in 5th.
Could be an injector locked up, fuel pump, wai failure or a multitude of other things. 30lb of boost and 28 degrees of timing doesn't leave much headroom for issues.
It was running great, and was crazy fast before it happened though. Hopefully the head and turbo are undamaged, but we'll find out later in the week.
I have to say though that these things can and do happen when you take the piss out of a motor on pump fuel. I understood the risks before we started, so nobodys fault bu my own, for pushing things too far.

It'll go back together with more fueling, bigger maf, and safer as long as the head and turbo are OK.
 
Should be Ryan, but maxed out. Maf registered 46lb per min, but it's pinned from 6200 on, so it's moving more, which is way more than 425.

Old Turbo did 390hp on 40lb/min airflow, and it felt like 60-70hp more at the top end not 20-30.

It went 2 days before inters, so no run

if my calcs are right 630cc x 4 x 0.756 density x 12.2 af /60 = 387g/s = 51lb/min
so injectors are maxed out at 51lb/min
 
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Jabba do 3 versions, mine is the middle one (450 ish), My car made 420 but my mate has the same turbo and set (almost identical) and his made 450, My engine droped a spectech valve and is currently being rebuilt by Jabba :D 2L (82.5 bore and Eurospec 12.5 KG billet crank , ported polished and water meth , let see what it makes:D

Do you mean 'Supertech' valve?

After how long did this happen? Did jabba give an explanation?

Did it burn out? or did it pop out / brake etc..?


Thanks
 
supertech have been sent failed valve/spring combination by the people involved (not me)... and there was witness of spring coil bind which would lead to failed valve. single groove valves in the example I have heard about. not neccessarily anyone on here's engine.

single groove valves should really only be used with supertech spring kits, and if using standard springs, use the 3 groove version of the supertechs.

NOTE: in supertechs opinion, the standard cams nearly coil bind std springs, so cam swaps on std springs, or swaps to atmo 20v cams on turbo motors should be avoided unless you have a spring kit to suit.
 
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Let me first say that JABBA DID NOT BUILD MY ENGINE

they have now got my car and have stripped it down, Mine were the SINGLE groove type and I was running standard cams and standard springs and retainers :( All the retainers were cracked, all eight exhaust valve need replacing and seven intake also need to be done :( the cracked retainer caused the collet to come off and valve to drop, SUPERTECH have done me a deal on spring set + retainers and required valve at a fair price(NOT FREE) so going back together soon :) . A lesson learn :( SINGLE GROOVE need SINGLE GROOVE retainers and uprated spring set . I'm just glad it bent and stuck rather that snapping and going through my new OWENS Turbo [B)] This build should be right and looking forward to getting it back
 
single groove retainers....you sure?

i thought all retainers fitted both. its the valves and collets that have to be matching
 
single groove retainers....you sure?

i thought all retainers fitted both. its the valves and collets that have to be matching
The collets came with the valves , but apparently you HAVE to use there retainers and spring set . I did think the same as you :(
 
do your saying that tripple groove valves and collets can be used on std retainers but single groove carnt

but both can be used on ti-retainers?!?

sounds like toffe waffle
 
do your saying that tripple groove valves and collets can be used on std retainers but single groove carnt

but both can be used on ti-retainers?!?

sounds like toffe waffle
Thats what SUPERTECH are now saying to me :(
SINGLE GROOVE can't be used with standard springs and retainers
 
tripple groove on my ibiza are working ok with supertech springs.
I was surprised there was a difference myself, as up until very recently, nothing otherwise had been said. My matching of single groove to supertech springs kits was only my own thing, as single groove is more race related, and as such higher rpms, cams likely run and springs to suit makes most sense.
 
Would you all still say Supertech Valves are still the best one's to go for?

What others to people use?

Am I right in thinking that only really the Exhaust one's need to be uprated?