yeah, I'm happy with it. I'm still undecided as to whether I get an exhaust and stg2 map put on, or to just sort out the issue with the stg1 map. Seems exhausts are more expensive than I remember, so may have to hold off.
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blueflame exhausts are a bit cheaper not sure if monster motorsport are still doin the deal they were doing before heres mine.
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Thanks mate, but I don't think blueflame is the path for me for a couple of reasons - 1) their build quality just isn't the same (many issues reported in the past) and the money saving in price for the exhaust is eaten up by the cost of fitting on top. Millteks seem to get free fitting in a few garages 
But basically stage 2 is going to cost around £1100 (exhaust/map) and I'm just trying to justify the gains for that money.
But basically stage 2 is going to cost around £1100 (exhaust/map) and I'm just trying to justify the gains for that money.
Little bit of work today, other than fixing a few bits like stereo and improving radio reception, I've taken off the air intake duct and sealed it completely, meaning more air will now be directed at the airbox:
As you can see here, as standard, there is a long slot on the bottom edge, meaning air just leaks into the engine bay. I believe this was a safety feature by VAG to allow water to drop out before getting to the airbox, but a big side-effect of this is a lot of the air does too! The airbox has a drain hole in anyway, and I won't be keeping the airbox much longer, so shouldn't cause a problem for me.
Standard:
Sealed (with sealant and then duct-tape over top just to tidy it up):
For anyone else wanting to do this, I actually found that the width of the intake is the exact same size as a CD case lid. I cut the CD case and then glued it to the bottom lip of the intake to give a smooth "slope" on the inside of the ducting. I then sealed this all together, and from above, unless you take the intake duct out of the car, you won't notice it's been modified
I've also gone back to the C2 aerial as I think reception is vastly improved since I changed the aerial adapter for another one I had lying around, and adjusted the stereo to allow for automatic seek.
As you can see here, as standard, there is a long slot on the bottom edge, meaning air just leaks into the engine bay. I believe this was a safety feature by VAG to allow water to drop out before getting to the airbox, but a big side-effect of this is a lot of the air does too! The airbox has a drain hole in anyway, and I won't be keeping the airbox much longer, so shouldn't cause a problem for me.
Standard:
Sealed (with sealant and then duct-tape over top just to tidy it up):
For anyone else wanting to do this, I actually found that the width of the intake is the exact same size as a CD case lid. I cut the CD case and then glued it to the bottom lip of the intake to give a smooth "slope" on the inside of the ducting. I then sealed this all together, and from above, unless you take the intake duct out of the car, you won't notice it's been modified
I've also gone back to the C2 aerial as I think reception is vastly improved since I changed the aerial adapter for another one I had lying around, and adjusted the stereo to allow for automatic seek.
Hhhmmm... for as long as I've owned my LCR, I've had radio reception problems too. I tried the C2 aerial; really liked the look but reception didn't improve. I'm currently using the Honda S2000 aerial with better performance, but it's still not perfect. Is the aerial adapter located at the aerial mount or behind the stereo Paul?
How's the issue with the boost at present? You still enjoying the Ibiza? As always, it looks very nice!
How's the issue with the boost at present? You still enjoying the Ibiza? As always, it looks very nice!
Well so far, for the last couple of days, reception has been fine. That said, I find that it sometimes depends on the weather, brilliant sunshine ruins the reception!
The adapter I speak of is behind the stereo, the usual autoleads adapter thing. I actually had one with a female connector on, and the stereo I have requires a male, so I had an adapter connecting the two together. I changed this for my spare lead which had a male connector, and I soldered the connection to the remote-switch cable. No doubt I'll need a different aerial soon, but for now the C2 shall remain!
As for boost issue, well, whatever I do it doesn't get any better now, so I'm pointing the finger at the map. I'm going to get a full exhaust system in the near future, so will get a new map, and may as well go for a stage 2 while I'm at it. I hope this resolves it!
Fitted the modified intake scoop this morning, and I've reverted back to an OEM filter as I've put the green filter up for sale, I'll be getting rid of the airbox and going for an open cone filter soon too. (I miss the noise from my leon! haha)
The adapter I speak of is behind the stereo, the usual autoleads adapter thing. I actually had one with a female connector on, and the stereo I have requires a male, so I had an adapter connecting the two together. I changed this for my spare lead which had a male connector, and I soldered the connection to the remote-switch cable. No doubt I'll need a different aerial soon, but for now the C2 shall remain!
As for boost issue, well, whatever I do it doesn't get any better now, so I'm pointing the finger at the map. I'm going to get a full exhaust system in the near future, so will get a new map, and may as well go for a stage 2 while I'm at it. I hope this resolves it!
Fitted the modified intake scoop this morning, and I've reverted back to an OEM filter as I've put the green filter up for sale, I'll be getting rid of the airbox and going for an open cone filter soon too. (I miss the noise from my leon! haha)
Well tonight saw me get the newly delivered Jetex cone filter installed, to replace the OEM airbox the car has had since I bought it.
I decided to go for an open cone filter as I'm now seriously close to being able to get the remap sorted, along with (probably) a full Milltek exhaust system. I missed the noise from my induction kit on my old LC so half an hours work and the job is done! Currently, I've left the OEM air feed in, but I do intend on replacing this with a better hose as/when I get one that fits properly. I had a decent length of 4" ali ducting, but I just can't seem to squeeze it in the gap between the engine and battery.
I've only checked that the car runs with it installed so far, the trip to/from work tomorrow will be when I get my first impressions!
I decided to go for an open cone filter as I'm now seriously close to being able to get the remap sorted, along with (probably) a full Milltek exhaust system. I missed the noise from my induction kit on my old LC so half an hours work and the job is done! Currently, I've left the OEM air feed in, but I do intend on replacing this with a better hose as/when I get one that fits properly. I had a decent length of 4" ali ducting, but I just can't seem to squeeze it in the gap between the engine and battery.
I've only checked that the car runs with it installed so far, the trip to/from work tomorrow will be when I get my first impressions!
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Good work Paul... you certainly won't be disappointed by the noise! If you haven't already, get a Forge 007p DV and run it in reverse.... then do the N249 bypass mod.
Already got a 007p, but don't see the point in reversing it. I also don't totally see the point in the n249 bypass mod either, I've done it before on my LC and even this ibiza and I didn't notice any real difference at all.
I need to support the filter using a different method when I get the chance, currently cable tied around the strut brace isn't ideal.
I need to support the filter using a different method when I get the chance, currently cable tied around the strut brace isn't ideal.
I did that... can't beat a cable tie... although it will rub your strut brace! I'm sure you can knock-up a support. I have an L shaped one mounted to one of the OEM airbox mounting points.
I probably can, but need to figure out which one to use first. Several options for mounting, but in the meantime I have a bit of sticky foam tape on the strut brace that should hold the cable til in place and avoid any rubbing.
Today I've made a bracket for the filter, so the cable-tie and tape has now been removed. Looked much better!
I used the rear OEM airbox mount (the pin that sticks out) and a length of right angled aluminium which had pre-drilled holes along it's length. All I had to do is cut it to the length I required, and enlarged the bottom hole so it located on the pin.
I am impressed with the noise - it is very throaty/agressive under load, and you hear the dumpvalve when you lift off the gas. It doesn't echo as much as my old Leon Carbonio that I had, but that's not a problem for me as I don't want it to sound too loud anyway!
Overall, very happy, just got to get the exhaust and map sorted now
Oh, and I'm waiting to get my ducting to replace the OEM hose with something a little longer so it can be directed better.
I used the rear OEM airbox mount (the pin that sticks out) and a length of right angled aluminium which had pre-drilled holes along it's length. All I had to do is cut it to the length I required, and enlarged the bottom hole so it located on the pin.
I am impressed with the noise - it is very throaty/agressive under load, and you hear the dumpvalve when you lift off the gas. It doesn't echo as much as my old Leon Carbonio that I had, but that's not a problem for me as I don't want it to sound too loud anyway!
Overall, very happy, just got to get the exhaust and map sorted now
Oh, and I'm waiting to get my ducting to replace the OEM hose with something a little longer so it can be directed better.
Which exhaust are you going for bud? Glad you like the filter it does have a nice sound to it not too loud which i prefer aswell
I think I'm going to go for the Milltek system mate - tried and tested, known good quality and fitment. Will be the non-resonated version and hopefully OEM looking tailpipe.
I'm now looking at SPA gauges too, as these seem the best match for the standard gauges - although they don't show a picture of their white faced versions on the website, so I've emailed for a photo.
I'm now looking at SPA gauges too, as these seem the best match for the standard gauges - although they don't show a picture of their white faced versions on the website, so I've emailed for a photo.
Well today I decided to finish off the cold air feed. I was going to run new ducting from the front of the car, but in the end I decided that the OEM feed was adequate, it just needed an end piece to direct the air straight at the filter to improve the "ram" effect. So some 3" diameter ducting cut to size should do the job nicely. You can see this directly under the filter.
And something I did last week in preparation for some new deliveries was to use a spare DIN blanking plate and cut it ready for some gauges. The gauges will take some work to complete as I'm going to have to make the wiring harnesses myself, but I hope it should be relatively straight forward.
Radio reception, in the recent spell of good weather, has deteriorated again, so I'm going to be changing the aerial too.
I'm also still researching into remaps and exhausts as these are soon to be purchased! I think I've narrowed it down to Revo, P-torque or Custom-code now. I'm just weighing up the pro's and cons, and obviously pricing for each.
And something I did last week in preparation for some new deliveries was to use a spare DIN blanking plate and cut it ready for some gauges. The gauges will take some work to complete as I'm going to have to make the wiring harnesses myself, but I hope it should be relatively straight forward.
Radio reception, in the recent spell of good weather, has deteriorated again, so I'm going to be changing the aerial too.
I'm also still researching into remaps and exhausts as these are soon to be purchased! I think I've narrowed it down to Revo, P-torque or Custom-code now. I'm just weighing up the pro's and cons, and obviously pricing for each.
Again thanks Mike, but I'm a little concerned that they are so far away, with any issues I would end up with long journey to sort it out.
Custom-Code is very local (Storm) so waiting to see what they come back with.
Custom-Code is very local (Storm) so waiting to see what they come back with.
I guess Wolverhampton is a bit of a drive..... I did it for my Stage 1 remap! JKM are REVO and APR dealers aren't they?
This is the reason i never went with P-Torque id really have liked Will to map the car but if i did have any problems its near enough a 600mile round trip for me!
Yes Mike, JKM do Revo and APR, and I'm considering the Revo Stage 2 option, but I kinda fancy something a bit different, and Revo works out quite a bit more expensive as you also have to factor in the likes of 4 bar FPR.
But I'm still thinking about it!
But I'm still thinking about it!
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