Picked up my new Cupra R

Seat Gooner

A.K.A Mark
Feb 28, 2009
1,952
0
Wisbech
hello everyone got my new Cupra R the other day :Dand could you tell me if the d.v looks in the right place and if the pipes are right.

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These two suppose to be blocked off.

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This pipe was blocked off with a nut i took it out and it sucks in air?

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Is this right place for the d.v

Any help would be great thank you
 

D.K

LCR 225
Oct 24, 2007
6,408
3
se london
It looks like someone has made a coldside relocation for it, Put the bolt back in where you took it from or you might get error codes.
 

DannyC87

Rubbing is Racing :-)
Mar 4, 2008
3,459
0
not just coldside relocation, thats a BOV valve! wouldn't be suprised to see your cel light soon!
 

D.K

LCR 225
Oct 24, 2007
6,408
3
se london
Get it on VAG-COM and check for error codes.

I think I'd be tempted to put it back to standerd or buy the proper Forge coldside kit.
 

Seat Gooner

A.K.A Mark
Feb 28, 2009
1,952
0
Wisbech
It looks like someone has made a coldside relocation for it, Put the bolt back in where you took it from or you might get error codes.

thanks for the reply's is this all right tho the engine seemed to run a bit lumpier when the bolts in :confused: will do tho it seems to run low on idle
 

DannyC87

Rubbing is Racing :-)
Mar 4, 2008
3,459
0
no that pipe should be blocked in the current set up; it is effectively a boost leak if its not blocked.
How it should be:
The two pipes with large bungs on (one being the TIP) should have a forge 007p valve linking them (or similar diverter valve). The pipe that you have removed the bolt from should go to the top of this valve to control when it opens. Then remove the valve that is currently on there, bung that pipe the thin red silicon pipe going to it and bobs your uncle - back to standard
 
if it were me knowing that they can cause some issue some times, i'd sack the BOV off, get a 007 and have it plumbed in properly again, it's £85 but will save you pennies in the long run more than likely

and as these pipes are hanging off it makes the n249 bypass easier as well :D

EDIT Or is it effectively bypassed now anyway :think:
 
Last edited:

DannyC87

Rubbing is Racing :-)
Mar 4, 2008
3,459
0
i got a code of 17608 on i know that but no lights are on

that is the code for N249 malfunction...because it is bypassed.. the pipe with the bolt in it comes from the N249 and should be going to the diverter valve that is no longer there.
 

D.K

LCR 225
Oct 24, 2007
6,408
3
se london
if it were me knowing that they can cause some issue some times, i'd sack the BOV off, get a 007 and have it plumbed in properly again, it's £85 but will save you pennies in the long run more than likely

and as these pipes are handing off it makes the n249 bypass easier as well

Agree 100%
You'll need a new intercooler hose aswell.

Might be worth finding someone local to you so you can copy there set up if you put it back to standerd.
 

DannyC87

Rubbing is Racing :-)
Mar 4, 2008
3,459
0
if you get a new dv by a week on saturday and fancy coming to the RR meet in Thriplow nr Duxford I'll help you out / you can copy mine if that helps at all?
 

Seat Gooner

A.K.A Mark
Feb 28, 2009
1,952
0
Wisbech
no that pipe should be blocked in the current set up; it is effectively a boost leak if its not blocked.
How it should be:
The two pipes with large bungs on (one being the TIP) should have a forge 007p valve linking them (or similar diverter valve). The pipe that you have removed the bolt from should go to the top of this valve to control when it opens. Then remove the valve that is currently on there, bung that pipe the thin red silicon pipe going to it and bobs your uncle - back to standard

thanks mate sounds like ill be after A 007

if it were me knowing that they can cause some issue some times, i'd sack the BOV off, get a 007 and have it plumbed in properly again, it's £85 but will save you pennies in the long run more than likely

and as these pipes are hanging off it makes the n249 bypass easier as well :D

thanks mate
 
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