I'm not 100% sure its a 330ohm for the cannister lookin on vortex.

Someone quoted... evap solenoid = resistor (I think 40ohm 1W should do)


But as i've read its best to check the what the its drawing using a multimeter and make up a resistor to match.


I got my blanking plate from Jonzy on here, just waiting for him to help me out with it.
 
Has anyone got any pics to help me junk all this as i need to get rid of all this and blank it off asap, (engine conversion ie don't need/want etc..) would be a BIG help to me :)
Thanks
 
Whole valve is ditched and the elbow on the block craig. I'll see if i can get some pics of his. Hes got the 42dd ones.

Only problem is hes banned from here now.


Hes also ditched the carbon cannister and running 3 110ohm 10 watt resistors to fool the ecu.


EDIT.

Hes just told me you jack the car up on the drivers side and then take the coolant pipe off the block.
 
Last edited:
Sorry craig it was from Intergrated Engineering, not 42nd DD. Its for the 1.8t tho, diamond shape with o-ring fitment to plug.

You will lose a bit of coolant apparently, but not much.
 
Havent been able to test the N80 resistance yet due to the cars current state. The SAI and N112 were 330 Ohms.

When you get your resistors have a look at the resistance it should be printed on the ceramic block.
 
Just to bump this craig.

EVAP carbon cannister is 330ohm 10watt again.

Have you used these for the rest, as in one single resistor, any problems?

N112 will be ditched from my rocker cover when i get my resistors as well. :D
 
Right i'm having grief with this, wired in a 330ohm 10 watt resistor to the canister plug, no fault codes showing on checking codes after clearing, then after around 50 miles the CEL comes back. I have a feeling the resistance is switching on idle, WOT and part throttle, so next step is to electronically plimb in the original N80 and leave it hanging a la N112.