15x8, but lip to lip they really 15x9 et +15
so 15x8 then

wheel are measured from inside bead not lip to lip
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15x8, but lip to lip they really 15x9 et +15
........ and are dangerous as fcuk...
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Lol i said i wouldnt do anything to the engine but im looking into it!! Ive got a 8v and i want roughly 170bhp id be happy with what do peeps reckon would be the best way to get this (and the cheapest!)
the keskins i had were et0 and were fine, so et+15 should be good
but when you do engine transplant dont you need new gearbox, wiring loom and dash?
you saying you had ET0, 8x15 rims and cleared the arches?
was it not lowered at all then?
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Lol i said i wouldnt do anything to the engine but im looking into it!! Ive got a 8v and i want roughly 170bhp id be happy with what do peeps reckon would be the best way to get this (and the cheapest!)
it rubbed a tiny bit on hard corners, that was it, it wasnt as low as it is now though, and i never had people in the back
but when you do engine transplant dont you need new gearbox, wiring loom and dash?
just a rough price list so far
Eaton M45 Supercharger - £150
Medium Intercooler - £130
V3.0 Megasquirt ECU - £450
M45 Supercharger Brackets - £250
Boost Return Valve - £50
Silicon Boost Hoses - £150
Cossie “Green” Injectors - £110
1.8T Inlet Manifold (Throttle body on the right) - £70
1.8T Fuel Rail with 3BAR FRP - £30
2x G60 Head Gaskets - £80
Lower Half of 16v Inlet Manifold - £20
8v Injector Seats - £7
1.8T Air Temp Sensor - £20
New Discs and Pads - £150
Jetex 70mm Air Filter - £35
Mocal Boost Gauge + fitting kit - £45
Splitfire A-Pillar boost Gauge Holder - £30
Total (roughly)
£1777
scary lol