It's possible with a huge list of mods and a very proficient tuner but most PD owners won't go that far as costs spiral rapidly once you start going over about 280bhp.
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what have you done to your car today ?
- Thread starter seatcupramad23
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It's possible but without head work, cam etc he's nowhere near. PD150 injectors are only good for about 240bhp
.....not entirely sure that would qualify as genius... not on a red car anyway
There's a channel on YouTube called Vory TDI and they have a 4x4 Leon that does 400bhp apparently. It probably cost an utter fortune. The amount of black smoke is inane.
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when i had my wheels redone and was a big company , two wheels were loose but at time thought everything other than that i.e tyre pressers , steering rake ect with tyres wide i could not move the wheels so took it into the garage i was using at time as it was doing my head in and car did not feel right or safe i just stopped driving it , i dropped it off and went back in later and they took the front cap on front wheel 3 bolts feel out and on was in a thread or two the one on rear were just loose well undid too the cap, what it was is the surface of the wheel hub was not clean or the inner and that caused them not to sit correct even though nuts tightened correct but would not think if you seen it , ballistic was not the word and i reckon it hit me hard later on as i was on motorway for a while driving with wheels like that few days later i went numb, imagine the front wheel coming off
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It was pub talk then ?
He did say it had bigger cc injectors but also sead it ran 10s at Santapod.
I should have known better and apologise for my ignorance ?
Good job too, from what I've been reading with the garages on here, they may have fitted it on ur roof or something lol.
If I weren't so bad with conflict, I'd have gone to the garage to tell him how badly he could have ****** everything up, but after a year, it would be so easy for him just to say the nut had come loose on its own or something. I remember the wheel being wobbly when I had my MoT last year because I mentioned to the tester that it was the only one I'd ever had changed and so it seemed weird that it was going.
The stupid thing is that I do work on my car sometimes and I'm wondering if I should be taking it to a garage instead, in case something goes wrong, but the reality is that taking it to a garage is no guarantee of safety.
At least I don't have to do my bearings now, so I might find some time later in the year to do my clutch.
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If that nut comes loose on its own it's pretty much always because of the tool doing it up wrong.
But yeah, best to just never ever go back to them and warn people off them (unless you know them well then go for it).
Have laughed at garages when they come up with a list of repairs for MoT. "Your sump is cracked and leaking oil" (Narrators voice: It wasn't) "Your brand new KW V3 coilovers are too stiff" (Narrators voice: Motherfu.... fine, I'll back off the factory preset damping)
If I went up there I’d be in jail now , get it what for on the phone and all the excuses come out, I use the aldi torque wrench every time wheel are touched now not risking it after that.
It is a bonkers design that won't let a ball joint clamp get in there.
Bodgers (& me!) just unwind the ball joint nut until it stops hard against the CV joint.
Then keep going until either the ball joint pops or you brinell your wheel bearings and the ball joint pops.
Unless you absobloodylutely have to replace the ball joint, as said, undo the three M8 bolts.
Else you enjoy a really lousy time.
New (old stock) Bosch brake master cylinder arrived on doorstep (by Hermes!.............. How?).
So that's ready for a mechanical wrestling match soon.
Will the brake booster be full of fluid? The excess being pumped into the engine oil?
Place your bets now.
So that's ready for a mechanical wrestling match soon.
Will the brake booster be full of fluid? The excess being pumped into the engine oil?
Place your bets now.
Ball joints are one of those 'easy when you know how' kinds of things, but they're still a pain, like you say, with the CV shaft in the way. I put a jack under them to be able to loosen the nut, and then I get a tuning fork splitter in there once the nut hits the CV shaft, then loosen it some more until I can get the nut out.
I only say this after undoing the three bolts first and discovering it's way harder to get the lower part of the ball joint to slide into the control arm - remembering I have the pressed arms on my FR. Some people seem to do it easily. Not me.
Sometimes experience is the best teacher.
I'm glad I didn't have to change the bearing though - that would involve getting the lower shock mount, the tie rod end, the ball joint out and the CV nut. And then the bearing.
**** that ****.
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https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=386790
Not a Seat, but an interesting thread I came across. Buy the looks of it he's basically taken the car apart, refurbished or replaced and put it all back together again over the last couple of years!
Not a Seat, but an interesting thread I came across. Buy the looks of it he's basically taken the car apart, refurbished or replaced and put it all back together again over the last couple of years!
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