(... probably time for me to look stupid!)
Jonnyjonjon - isn't the FPR is at the top of the picutre (silver alloy dent in the top)? whats the brass bit?
Jonnyjonjon - isn't the FPR is at the top of the picutre (silver alloy dent in the top)? whats the brass bit?
My one (when I get round to fitting the guage) is a simple plastic t-piece with a brass insert. Is that some sort of fancy one?
The brass bit is a compression fitting-hose tail which is all I could lay my hands on at the time. It works fine so I've never changed it.
So at the moment, because I've mounted the T piece on the top of the DV as initially recommended, I'm actually getting a false reading?
Nah Lee I took it to P torque and had the decat and downpipe fitted beforehand. While under the car the helpful chaps there pointed out some problems that I have since almost got fixed, such as detiorated rear discs, leaking front NS CV gaitor, new tyres on the back, and leaking shocks. So I decided to get those sorted first, along with a service, to have it in prime condition for the remap.
I haven't bypassed the N249. Doesn't FPR stand for Fuel Pressure Regulator? If so, how does that let me measure turbo boost?
I haven't bypassed the N249. Doesn't FPR stand for Fuel Pressure Regulator? If so, how does that let me measure turbo boost?
There is a short vac line from the inlet manifold to the FPR - you tee into that line.
(When there's a vacuum, fuel pressure is reduced by about 0.5 bar)
There are a few lines coming from the inlet manifold. I've taken a pic of my engine. Could someone please point to which line I should Tee in the piece. Thanks 
right this is very simple and while you are doing this there is another modification which is beneficial.
there are alot of vacuum pipes, resevoirs, tubing and valves around this area.
there are two metal nipples coming out from the underneath of the inlet manifold, remove the two vacuum pipes from here. you may need to remove the plastic black guard piece which sits infront of the manifold to access it.
get a peice of silicone vacuum pipe, some good stuff, 3mm id from ebay or somewhere. attatch one end to any inlet manifold nipple and the other end to the fuel pressure regulator. should fit snuggly but just add a cable tie.
from the other nipple connect this straight to the top of the dump valve. miss out all of the other pipes and valves. totally useless and maybe people do the n249 bypass mod i noticed a difference in throttle response and dump valve noise and response. leave the n249 valve pluged into the wiring loom. remove all the other tubing and vacuum resevoir box.
t piece into the fuel pressure regulator or the one which goes into the dump valve. just chop the pipe and put the t piece in. run the pipe along the fuel rail, side of the engine mount, under the power steering bottle, coolant bottle, up along the top and into the wiper panel into the rubber gromit which goes into the behind the dash, seal it off.
if you t piece into the vacuum hosing without removing the n249 and using the dump valve lines to t piece you can cause a deviation with the n249 valve which is going to cause it to sense incorrect air flow etc. so ive been told... hope this helps.
it is only advise and not a guide as such but any info then just ask and i may be able to help a little.
there are alot of vacuum pipes, resevoirs, tubing and valves around this area.
there are two metal nipples coming out from the underneath of the inlet manifold, remove the two vacuum pipes from here. you may need to remove the plastic black guard piece which sits infront of the manifold to access it.
get a peice of silicone vacuum pipe, some good stuff, 3mm id from ebay or somewhere. attatch one end to any inlet manifold nipple and the other end to the fuel pressure regulator. should fit snuggly but just add a cable tie.
from the other nipple connect this straight to the top of the dump valve. miss out all of the other pipes and valves. totally useless and maybe people do the n249 bypass mod i noticed a difference in throttle response and dump valve noise and response. leave the n249 valve pluged into the wiring loom. remove all the other tubing and vacuum resevoir box.
t piece into the fuel pressure regulator or the one which goes into the dump valve. just chop the pipe and put the t piece in. run the pipe along the fuel rail, side of the engine mount, under the power steering bottle, coolant bottle, up along the top and into the wiper panel into the rubber gromit which goes into the behind the dash, seal it off.
if you t piece into the vacuum hosing without removing the n249 and using the dump valve lines to t piece you can cause a deviation with the n249 valve which is going to cause it to sense incorrect air flow etc. so ive been told... hope this helps.
it is only advise and not a guide as such but any info then just ask and i may be able to help a little.
I'm about to put in my boost gauge, and reading this thread has confused me. Many people have T'd into the top of the DV without doing an N249 bypass (whatever that is).
You (and others) are saying it's a bad idea.
How much of a difference does it make? Is it worth doing this N249 bypass thingy? And then where does the boost gauge T piece go?
Sorry for my lack of knowledge.
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