Wild Willy's Leon Cupra R- 325 Badger Horse Power.

[wild willy]

hey you got a nice torque curve there !!

i have a question do you might know how its done to hold it that long ?

mine has a peak at 3k ish en then 4.5k already starts to drop

so i was wondering if u might know what would help against that dropping...?

(my graph is found here : http://album.partyflock.nl/73502004.jpg )

The hybrid treament certainly helps but not as much as you may think, my advise to make a noticeble difference to your set up is:-
!. Large Jetex air filter with decent cold air feed.
2. Descreen the Maff.
3. Custom 3 inch intake pipework ( bin that pee shooter)
4. Forge uprated actuator
5. Forge Unos mbc in place of n75 valve.

The above will hold your torque a lot better, minor fuel tweaks may be required.

 

[jamiebennett81]

The hybrid treament certainly helps but not as much as you may think, my advise to make a noticeble difference to your set up is:-
!. Large Jetex air filter with decent cold air feed.
2. Descreen the Maff.
3. Custom 3 inch intake pipework ( bin that pee shooter)
4. Forge uprated actuator
5. Forge Unos mbc in place of n75 valve.

The above will hold your torque a lot better, minor fuel tweaks may be required.

Does the forge actuator really make that muh of a difference over an actuator running an updated spring?

 

[wild willy]

Check the GB ratio's
I think when I was looking at getting a new gear box and had a look at the ratios I thought that 5th was more of a 1:1 ratio than 4th was.
I would doubt there would be much difference TBH, perhaaps 3rd or 6th there would be though.

thats interesting Willie as i thought 4th was more 1:1. I've got to get it on the heart breaker this year for a reality check.

 

[wild willy]

What size filter is that in the work in progress pic by the way?

That would be the 834bhp jetex cyclidrical filter, 190mm x 282mm fecking huge, just about fits in the bay with a shoe horn.
I'm hoping to have it finished over the weekend, just soldering upthe take off's etc.

 

[wild willy]

Does the forge actuator really make that muh of a difference over an actuator running an updated spring?

Its the same thing really as if i could re spring the stock actuator i would but its a sealed unit. The forge one fits well and is fully upgradeble and easy to maintain with replacement parts. I wish they would have more of a range of springs though as a 8psi spring would suit the stock K04 perfectly and still allow the n75 close control.

 

[Cupra_R04]

so are the take off's going in flat or at an angle to the silicone pipe?

 

[jamiebennett81]

Its the same thing really as if i could re spring the stock actuator i would but its a sealed unit. The forge one fits well and is fully upgradeble and easy to maintain with replacement parts. I wish they would have more of a range of springs though as a 8psi spring would suit the stock K04 perfectly and still allow the n75 close control.

hmmmm I wander what actuator I have on. I know its not a Forge one, but its uprated spring wise

always wanted to get a Forge one, but could not justify the cost over little if any difference in performance

 

[Willie]

hmmmm I wander what actuator I have on. I know its not a Forge one, but its uprated spring wise

always wanted to get a Forge one, but could not justify the cost over little if any difference in performance

The actuator spring makes a MASSIVE difference.
I know a guy who was running 34PSI.........YES 34PSI on a KO3 with Stage 2 REVO settings to the max and the strongest spring wound up tight.

Needless to say the turbo didn't last long but what a beast of a Ibiza that was.

Couldn't get a RR as it couldn't be contained, lol

 

[jamiebennett81]

The actuator spring makes a MASSIVE difference.
I know a guy who was running 34PSI.........YES 34PSI on a KO3 with Stage 2 REVO settings to the max and the strongest spring wound up tight.

Needless to say the turbo didn't last long but what a beast of a Ibiza that was.

Couldn't get a RR as it couldn't be contained, lol

spool, waaarrrppp, cough, splutter, BANG *as it spits the turbo through the bonnet*

its something on the "to do list" but not urgent at the moment as I have other things to sort

like getting her running right

Wild W, are you any nearer to doing those logs for the different MAF's yet?

 

[Cupra_R04]

Hows the tip comming along any updates?

 

[wild willy]

Hows the tip comming along any updates?

My 1 year old daughter takes alot of my spare time on the weekend so not much progress. Will finish soon though. The take off's will be at an angle to the tip as there's not much space to play with.

@ Jammie , at a moderate boost level
From memory with a stock maff i was pulling 238g/sec.
descreened standard maff ......... 256g/sec
Oversized Modshack Maff ..........227g/sec

new logs to come soon.

 

[probee]

Interesting stuff Karl. I didn't get any logs but i found a descreened housing also felt like it gave good gains. Not quite as good as frequently blowing out your airfilter with an airline though

You've just made me think about something. Maybe my filter is underated which is why i'm running so rich.. Something I haven't thought about before

I can't find any info on it.

I might try ditching the dynatwist and trying something like your jetex

 

[wild willy]

Interesting stuff Karl. I didn't get any logs but i found a descreened housing also felt like it gave good gains. Not quite as good as frequently blowing out your airfilter with an airline though

You've just made me think about something. Maybe my filter is underated which is why i'm running so rich.. Something I haven't thought about before

I can't find any info on it.

I might try ditching the dynatwist and trying something like your jetex

Hi mate, not seen you posting for a while. The Jetex / JR filters are very recommended as they flow very well and and are very reasonable cost wise. its just a matter of time until you find the sensor or reason for the fueling issue thats bugging you at the moment, then look out .
the dynatwist element itself (i remember you upgraded to a green cone) is a very retrictive element.

 

[probee]

I'm hoping you're right about finding the problem, I havent been on much as I've been so busy with work, been on holiday and the weather is so bad I've hardly driven my car.

Coming on and looking at what people are doing does perk you up a liitle though, I need to spend some time and find the problem with mine.

 

[jonjay]

I am thinking the same with my setup aswell willy & Aaron. I just do think air box even with a twin feed is helping the car.

 

[wild willy]

I'm hoping you're right about finding the problem, I havent been on much as I've been so busy with work, been on holiday and the weather is so bad I've hardly driven my car.

Coming on and looking at what people are doing does perk you up a liitle though, I need to spend some time and find the problem with mine.

The thing is though mate as normally is the case, i bet its something simple. Thats how it rolls for me anyhows.

 

[wild willy]

I am thinking the same with my setup aswell willy & Aaron. I just do think air box even with a twin feed is helping the car.

Once i've finished testing this large open cone, i'm going to give the stock air box another try as it has many things going for it.
1. Well insulated
2.Sleeper, neat look.
3. Completly secures the maff.
4. Replacement paper filters are cheap as chips with no oil issues and outflow the replacement performance equivalents from my experience.

i want to pressurise it properly though with two good feeds and a spare hole at the rear of the box (cold area) to ensure adequate air supply. Cold air is the way forward to enable consistancy run after run. The mistake people make when modding the stock box is to allow the turbo to draw air from a cold location rather than raming it down its throat. To overcome the extra resistance the stock box creates over a large open cone it must be pressurised.

 

[TubbyTwo]

Very nice!

 

[probee]

I am thinking the same with my setup aswell willy & Aaron. I just don't think air box even with a twin feed is helping the car.

ive never seen diesel airflow figures (im assuming youre sucking in quite a bit) but you must be close to maxing out your intake. it will be interesting to see how much of a difference it makes.

The thing is though mate as normally is the case, i bet its something simple. Thats how it rolls for me anyhows.

hehe im sure youre right mate. maybe its just the lambda. i was going to wait a while before fitting your SEM but i think it may help out as its running rich.

 

[jonjay]

Once i've finished testing this large open cone, i'm going to give the stock air box another try as it has many things going for it.
1. Well insulated
2.Sleeper, neat look.
3. Completly secures the maff.
4. Replacement paper filters are cheap as chips with no oil issues and outflow the replacement performance equivalents from my experience.

i want to pressurise it properly though with two good feeds and a spare hole at the rear of the box (cold area) to ensure adequate air supply. Cold air is the way forward to enable consistancy run after run. The mistake people make when modding the stock box is to allow the turbo to draw air from a cold location rather than raming it down its throat. To overcome the extra resistance the stock box creates over a large open cone it must be pressurised.

Indeed, this is why I have kept the airbox all this time. I do have twin cold air feeds from both fogs so whilst the car is moving, air is definately being rammed into the box. Of course when the car is on the dyno this system just doesn't work aswell which is why I may be seeing lower figures that before for my car but on the road it's much quicker.

Do you have a link to the Jetex? I assume you can attach a feed to it like the dynatwist?