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what have you done to your car today ?

Took the back roads home from work, definitely got the setup right for wet weather ?

Drivers door isn't quite so well set up for wet weather so damp feet on the drive? least I don't have any carpets to worry about
 
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fa9c5b0303f6e1ad38c8bf53c1aab33b.jpg


This is bothering me.

I was going to take it out, check it for leaks and then clean it out with some IPA or something, but all the guides I'm finding (there aren't many) are saying I have to take the bumper off to do it.

Really?

I'm planning to spray the bumper in a few weeks so it would make sense to do it then if I have to, but if I can do both without removing the whole front on the car that's preferable.

Any tips?


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iammooks said:
fa9c5b0303f6e1ad38c8bf53c1aab33b.jpg


This is bothering me.

I was going to take it out, check it for leaks and then clean it out with some IPA or something, but all the guides I'm finding (there aren't many) are saying I have to take the bumper off to do it.

Really?

I'm planning to spray the bumper in a few weeks so it would make sense to do it then if I have to, but if I can do both without removing the whole front on the car that's preferable.

Any tips?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I’d leave it alone and wait for the better weather to dry it out. Or get a hair dryer on it. There are two torx bolts that hold the top of the headlamp in place. Mine were rusty/seized and I snapped one of the bolts, so its a whole load of work to remove the headlamps if you don't need to. Even my brand new Valeo headlamps get a slight mist of condensation in them during cold weather.
 
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Still waiting for a new hose for my car. Been driving it around all week at sub 2 5k.
Hopefully itll turn up tomorrow.
 
Alexis27 said:
Yeah, bumper off I'm afraid.

Check the black cover is making a good seal. A second hand cap might be all you need to fix it
Click to expand...

g60stu said:
I’d leave it alone and wait for the better weather to dry it out. Or get a hair dryer on it. There are two torx bolts that hold the top of the headlamp in place. Mine were rusty/seized and I snapped one of the bolts, so its a whole load of work to remove the headlamps if you don't need to. Even my brand new Valeo headlamps get a slight mist of condensation in them during cold weather.
Click to expand...

Arses - but thanks for letting me know.

At the moment it's not something that's come up on the MoT but it bothers me when the nearside one is pristine (replaced ten years ago after a crash). When the condensation dries, there's a noticeable yellowish brown coating on the inside that makes it look like it needs a polish on the outside.

I don't need to take the bumper off for the respray, so probably won't, so I may as well wait until the next MoT to see if they say anything. It sucks having that in January though - any work I have to do is normally in the freezing cold - and it's always coldest when I need to do work on the car.


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iammooks said:
It sucks having that in January though - any work I have to do is normally in the freezing cold - and it's always coldest when I need to do work on the car.
Click to expand...
My MOT used to be like this. I took the brave step a few years ago to get it moted in august to get it off that winter MOT cycle. Makes it much easier to fix stuff in the summer or cycle to work if I need to.
 
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iammooks said:
fa9c5b0303f6e1ad38c8bf53c1aab33b.jpg


This is bothering me.

I was going to take it out, check it for leaks and then clean it out with some IPA or something, but all the guides I'm finding (there aren't many) are saying I have to take the bumper off to do it.

Really?

I'm planning to spray the bumper in a few weeks so it would make sense to do it then if I have to, but if I can do both without removing the whole front on the car that's preferable.

Any tips?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ok I’ve had this on 2 of my Cupras.
I have a fix. You don’t need to remove anything. It’s cheap and should work.
Simply remove connector with bulb. Place silica gel packs off eBay inside. (Buy sensible sizes)
Either leave it parked up or run the car as normal with bulb in place and working and use as normal. within a few days it’ll be clear and sorted.
As was said above th cold weather brings it on even on new sets. I had this happen as I put new ones in when I got the csr.
The above fix worked and now if I do get a tiny bit of condensation it’s minor and gone in minutes.


Badger5 Custom Map + TIP,
3”Custom exhaust, FMIC, Bosh 550’s, BC Coilovers, ARB’s +loads more.
 
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iammooks said:
fa9c5b0303f6e1ad38c8bf53c1aab33b.jpg


This is bothering me.

I was going to take it out, check it for leaks and then clean it out with some IPA or something, but all the guides I'm finding (there aren't many) are saying I have to take the bumper off to do it.

Really?

I'm planning to spray the bumper in a few weeks so it would make sense to do it then if I have to, but if I can do both without removing the whole front on the car that's preferable.

Any tips?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


If you open your bonnet. Take the covers off the back of the head lights. Then cover the glass on the front with an old thick sheet or coat. Start the engine and put your head lights on. The reflecting of the heat will evaporate the water out the light as the covers are off the back.
Done this a few time on trucks and cars.
 
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g60stu said:
Did some hose lengthening...
Ever since I fitted my Badger 5 TIP, the Creations hose to the DV was too short and I had to install the OEM pipe back (OEM was slghtly longer and being rubber had a certain stretch to it that silcone doesn't). Anyhow, this had been bugging me for a year or two and an impending boost increase ;)got my thinking I should sort this pipework out. I bought a 22mm OD length of pipe and spliced my CM hose in half. Hey presto... and extended hose. Still not perfect but better than before. Why are the simplist of things such a pain in the bum?!?
View attachment 24541View attachment 24542View attachment 24543


Oh yeah, look at the quality difference of these two (left - ebay special, right - Samco):
View attachment 24540
Click to expand...
Where did you get the Samco pipe fro. Im goin to do this mod to mine.
My new one is under tension as yours was.

Rich
 
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Rich.T said:
Top man, thanks?
Did 22mm feel ok? To big, to small?
Click to expand...
I guess it was just right. Biggest issue is getting the jubilee clips orientated not to foul on anything. And for that reason it’s important to cut the pipe in the right place too. I’ll take a measurement of what I did. Just make sure you use good quality clips and not cheap crap. Take a look back at my photos. it shows it installed in the engine bay.
 
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Here is a photo (upside down!!) the dv end is about 9.5-10cm long. You can even see that my pipework still doesn’t fully mate up with the DV. It’s been like that for a year or two with no issues.
830D15EB-4D10-4B45-BEE4-2478B048B5CF.jpeg
 
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g60stu said:
I guess it was just right. Biggest issue is getting the jubilee clips orientated not to foul on anything. And for that reason it’s important to cut the pipe in the right place too. I’ll take a measurement of what I did. Just make sure you use good quality clips and not cheap crap. Take a look back at my photos. it shows it installed in the engine bay.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Mine is routed slightly differently to yours. Mine hasn't got the retaining clamp anymore as i replaced the hot/boost pipe with a forge item.
I'll order the tube now.
Got a Stanley knife and new blades for cutting the silicone.
 
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