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check the actuator (if) the boost your gauge is actually correct, or simply validate your gauge to a know pressure pump.
If actuator is sticking/split then it wil open slower or not at all, if sticking it would be erratic

the logs dont capture the 28-30psi moments
 
Yeah we did discuss the matter and to be fair he did leave the decision up to me on whether to proceed. As you can tell I'm not very well clued up on motors, the little knowledge i have comes from reading threads on here but i'm very new to Leons as well. From what i can gather, Will did do a couple of logs an advised at the time the N75 didn't appear to have "normal" readings and he advised i look here to start with but the decision was i stress up to me. I did say yes like a kid in a sweet shop but hindsight is a wonderful thing and i wouldn't of now looking back without resolving this issue first.

As John has said, we can try sensors all day long, and we did try Johns gauge (phantom, more reliable than mine!) and still got some higher readings. I will email the logs to Will, Dave but I'm contemplating having it "flashed" back if thats the right word. I rather have the surging and no map than surging with dangerously high psi :cry::cry::cry:
 
check the actuator (if) the boost your gauge is actually correct, or simply validate your gauge to a know pressure pump.
If actuator is sticking/split then it wil open slower or not at all, if sticking it would be erraticthe logs dont capture the 28-30psi moments


Well, according to the gauge, i remember one run vividly we hit 28/29 ish, i recall the louder flutter and looking at the boost gauge to check the psi (however i appreciate that may not be the true figure). In fact i'm sure on every run it does it and then to a degree it tails off......

Are there tests for the bold caption?

Just read what you put above, going back to a response from Dave, this seems (2540mbar) to be as high as it will measure so if thats where it's surging/spiking more you won't see it, will you?
 
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.............

Just read what you put above, going back to a response from Dave, this seems (2540mbar) to be as high as it will measure so if thats where it's surging/spiking more you won't see it, will you?

Yes, but the short duration your spike is showing is very similar to the spike you get with Revo - perhaps 24/25 psi. It's my experience that spikes towards 28/30 psi have a longer duration above 2540 and their after-effects show easily on boost/duty cycle etc because the ecu is fighting hard to control them. None of this is evident with yours, leading me to believe it's not a big spike.
 
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Rocky,

Google "TTweakers-Guide.pdf", it is for the TT(same BAM engine i think) but it explains all the blocks that you logged for boost/CF etc... i found it very useful in understanding this stuff.

Tim if you want a copy of this PDF let me know I can email it to you. Sounds like you've got everyone stumped!
 
yes mate, currently running a borrwed n75 but no difference with that either :confused:

ok; if not I was going to send you my spare one to test with; but if you've got one it won't help! If it is not any of the hoses to and from the n75 then the wastegate actuator would be the next thing to check (or so I was told when I was having the same issues). Not sure how it can be checked though, wild willy seems very knowledgeable about this stuff though :)
 
Well, according to the gauge, i remember one run vividly we hit 28/29 ish, i recall the louder flutter and looking at the boost gauge to check the psi (however i appreciate that may not be the true figure). In fact i'm sure on every run it does it and then to a degree it tails off......

Are there tests for the bold caption?

Just read what you put above, going back to a response from Dave, this seems (2540mbar) to be as high as it will measure so if thats where it's surging/spiking more you won't see it, will you?

I have a test pump gauge which I use to pump pressure into actuators etc so I can see their function (sticky or smooth) and also see if they hold pressure or leak, and what pressure they start to move at.

If you electrically disconnected the N75, and or just pumbed direct from charge side to actuator direct you eliminate any such N75 problem, as you have turbo + actuator alone.

If you still get surging then there is something amiss with the turbo/actuator/wastegate itself.
 
I have a test pump gauge which I use to pump pressure into actuators etc so I can see their function (sticky or smooth) and also see if they hold pressure or leak, and what pressure they start to move at.

If you electrically disconnected the N75, and or just pumbed direct from charge side to actuator direct you eliminate any such N75 problem, as you have turbo + actuator alone.
If you still get surging then there is something amiss with the turbo/actuator/wastegate itself.


When you say electrically disconnect, i take it you mean just unplug/unclip it (once unplugged i take it it doesn't matter that it is still piped to the actuator). Can you then run the car as normal for a short period as per you would testing a MAF to completely rule this out as the cause or have i got the wrong end of the stick with what your saying?
:redface:

Also this pressure testing equipment thing, is it something most decent garages will have or is it more specialist?
 
Well i'm ordering the best possible gauge i can tomoz without going into sill money, just so i'm confident or fairly confident it shouldn't read too much different to what i'm actually running, this autogauge one has been nothing but mither so i'm going for a phantom.

As well as this i'm going to look into the wastegate as you say Bill (need to know who can test this though) but also i'm going to try and locate a 3 bar MAP sensor, can someone confirm what these are from?
 
Well i'm ordering the best possible gauge i can tomoz without going into sill money, just so i'm confident or fairly confident it shouldn't read too much different to what i'm actually running, this autogauge one has been nothing but mither so i'm going for a phantom.

As well as this i'm going to look into the wastegate as you say Bill (need to know who can test this though) but also i'm going to try and locate a 3 bar MAP sensor, can someone confirm what these are from?

forget 3bar map sensor
this is not going to help you.
2.5bar map sensor is what you need for what you have, ie std one

logs record the pressure so it looks like its working, your boost gauge as you already say is *suspect* so see what the new one reads. (taking vac/pressure signal off inlet manifold)

electrically disconnect n75, then boost pressure should act direct onto actuator.
short circuiting physically as I suggested, eliminates anything internal to the n75 being clogged or blocking. you should have the same end result on actuator pressure only.
 
Sorry to sound thick here Bill, i'm trying to picture this in my head as i type and i can't :(. The one bit i can recall at the min is that the boost gauge is running of the FPR. When you say go of the top of the inlet is this a different way again.

Again, apologies to harp on about the wastegate test too but is this something that can be easily done at home i.e. parts still on the car but needing the right tools or is it a garage job? I will do the N75 but can you can confirm how long am i ok driving without it connected?

Reel Steel are sending the Phantom express delivery so will be here tomoz , yay!! Least then i can rule one thing out for definate!
 
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Still Occuring

[:@] Well i've decided to ressurect this thread as I've discovered i'm still having the problem. The EGT sensor has been changed, I was given a hint that this could be the underlying issue by Jeff at Awesome as they had an Audi in with the same overboost issue and it was the EGT at fault. As I say the sensor was changed last Wednesday, the car ran at Awesome on Saturday, first time it had been tested shall we say since and it's still hitting 30ish PSI now and again.

So in summary the EGT has been done, the n75 has been done, I can't see any split hoses which i know caused a fellow member to have this issue, nothing apparent is showing on the logs and i have no fault codes at all on vagcom. I did have the car mapped with the problem occuring, therefore if it was the EGT could this still be held in the ECU memory as the fault if you like and it will need to be redone? I'm back at Wills (P-Torque) tomoz to try and get some more logs done to get to the bottom of it.

I still haven't had the wastegate checked but I thought if it was sticking it would doing it more frequently than when my foot is planted........normally it drives fine, i.e if it's boosting but not to it's potential it's fine.

Any suggestions as this really is becomming an annoying issue and to be honest i'm thinking of taking the map off, least i'll know the car is safer shall we say turbo wise that way :cry:
 
Interestingly, I posted something similar the other day:

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=225492

Mine can boost to 28-30PSi in 4th, 5th and 6th gear before dropping down to 24PSi and has the fluttering sound you describe. I've never really considered it an issue until recently, so, it'll be interesting to know if you ever sort it as it can't be great for the turbo and possibly even affecting performance?

I've done a pressure test by blocking off the end of the TIP and putting a pump in the N75 valve bit on the TIP - is this a reliable way of checking for boost leaks?
 
like you say , defo not good for the Turbo and I've been informed that yes indeed it could potentially be effecting performance BHP wise. My torque is currently 314ft'lb/ft on a stage 1 due to the high spike yet bhp is 256. I'm hoping to see the torque come down a bit and the bhp go up slightly IF i can get the issue sorted so.......

suggestions welcome :think:

I meant to speak with you Dave about this on Saturday as i noticed you had a look at the graph when it had run but due to something coming up i had to shoot off.
 
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