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Mine was 300Lb/ft and 267bhp when it was rolling roaded - although I can tell when the spike comes back down it seems to pull better.

Going to check for boost leaks again later and have a full check over I think.
 
Hello,

Your could try and take some pre load of the actuator arm/nut.
This is what I had to do with my old AUQ Golf.

Ben
 
The actuator rod is what opens and closes the wastegate. Follow the hose from the N75 to the turbo area, this connects to the actuator. From this is a rod which goes to the wastegate on the turbo; there are two nuts on this rod which can be adjusted to alter the amount the actuator needs to act in order to open the wastegate. "Wild Willy" knows a lot about this area so may be worth a PM. Good luck :)
 
Mine isn't intermittant, always been like it since I've had the car.

Know where the actuator rod is so might mark its location and give it a twist (although I've heard of this putting the car in to limp mode?)
 
Update: New Map

well i went back to P-Torque today and Will checked it, he spent a good hour or so on it and didn't charge which i thought was very good of him, after all it wasn't him that has caused the issue and he was more than happy to help :clap:.

Anyway, i'm not very techically minded but from what i can remember he has basically changed the map, he has advised that it isn't as agressive when accelerating but i should notice it more top end which i have already. He has also done some custom bits too i think, i know he mentioned adjusting fueling slightly, duty cycle ( i maybe wrong here but i' sure he said he had tweeked it) etc but it appears at the minute to be better. So far it's been spiking at 23 and tailing of to 18ish. It does feel a smoother and nicer map tbh.

He has now said to try it out for a few days and let the car adapt again, hopefully it maybe ok but if not we have both agreed after the stuff done already , the next thing to be changed will be the actuator.
 
Is it even possible to alter the actuator rod on the LCR? There seems to be some sort of metal plate which stops the nuts from being moved.
 
Do you have an induction kit on?

Don't know whether it's any help or not... but before I sold my LCR I put the standard airbox and DV back on and the overboost issue had gone! Worth a try?
 
I had this fault for about 3 weeks and after changing the N75 and MAF sensor checking all the vacuum pipes it turned out it was my actuator wasn't holding pressure. sucked on the pipe going to the actuator and it didn't go solid (like sucking a straw with your finger blocking the other hole) so I replaced the actuator which made it allot better since ive had to adjust the length of the actuator bar to get it boosting correctly hope this helps was doing my head in for ages.