Did it myself mate, belt, tensioners, pump and coolant, 5-6 hours and about 100 quid all in, if you feel confident in your own ability i'd have a go at it, the 20vt lump is a very easy lump to work on in comparison to many,

But if your not sure personally i'd get some one reputable to do it for you,

no probs mate but i am not that confident to do it myself
 
Did it myself mate, belt, tensioners, pump and coolant, 5-6 hours and about 100 quid all in, if you feel confident in your own ability i'd have a go at it, the 20vt lump is a very easy lump to work on in comparison to many,

But if your not sure personally i'd get some one reputable to do it for you,

I would love to be able to do it myself but I'm resigned to the fact I will have to use a garage. :cry:

I wish I'd done some sort of mechanics course years ago. I would love tinkering around. :whistle:
 
well i was enquiring about this a couple weeks back, mine is a 55 plate 30k, and due a service. my garage just done an interum, which is just oil change......anyway i enquired about the 60k or 4 year cambelt change and they said its been reviewed again, and now its 5 years.....tbh i do 3k a year so im gonna risk it till june time then change it
 
hi

well im about to do mmy timming belt this comming weekend , as my 01 leon cupra started making a funny growling noise last weekend & i checked it the timming belt is cracked baadly & very loos to the point i can slide it off the top pulley , double checked my service book & im 2500 miles over the belt interval & service shedule :( .............bloody lucky , not starting it agin dont want to risk it unitil its done

tps vw/audi parts in stockton have quoted me £46 for the a genuine vw/vag timming belt / roller & tensioner kit ..........result & reckon 2-3 hrs work saturday morning job will be right
 
Well she has gone in this morning.
The dealer couldn't source a water pump with metal impeller but then said that if they did fit the part it wouldn't be covered under there 2 year guarantee. So fair do's I suppose. It's not as if it is heavily modified and needs it.
I also spoke to a mate who knows his stuff and he said the metal ones weren't necessarily better as the bearings wear on them with the added weight. He suggested in the future to perhaps fit and electric external one that fits in the pipe.

So I'm just waiting to hear from the garage so I can pick her :D up and settle the bill :cry:

Then I'm on the hunt for a Revo SPS1 switch :whistle:
 
Mines also gone in for the cambelt today! 53 plate LCR with 43k on the clock, would be interested to know what kind of state the belt is in.

Im paying £310 inc vat, this is with the metal impeller pump which I didnt think was a bad price. All being done at a local VAG specialist :).
 
Just had a phone call from the SEAT garage doing the work.
They have said that the engine is a hybrid :confused: i.e. head has been replaced with one for an Audi A3 150. So there double checking part numbers etc so not to throw things out.

How much will this affect the car? What if I wanted to re-activate the Revo SPS1 mapping? Asking for trouble? or will it be ok? :shrug:

I have to say the car runs like a dream but as I'm not mechanically minded I need some input.

Thanks,
Rich
 
Just had a phone call from the SEAT garage doing the work.
They have said that the engine is a hybrid :confused: i.e. head has been replaced with one for an Audi A3 150. So there double checking part numbers etc so not to throw things out.

How much will this affect the car? What if I wanted to re-activate the Revo SPS1 mapping? Asking for trouble? or will it be ok? :shrug:

I have to say the car runs like a dream but as I'm not mechanically minded I need some input.

Thanks,
Rich


i wouldny worry to much about it , lots of heads are interchangable in the vw/audi/seat range thats how they make there money by using the same parts across the range save development costs

it works , its fine :)
 
i wouldny worry to much about it , lots of heads are interchangable in the vw/audi/seat range thats how they make there money by using the same parts across the range save development costs

it works , its fine :)

The fact SEAT don't know anything about it though and also a tuning specialised found it strange doesn't fill me with confidence about the work carried out on it. :(
 
just had some mailshot through my door this morning from the dealership i bought the car from 3 and a half years ago...apparantly my timing belt is due for replacement???....:shrug:like i didnt know:lol:.....

anyway they got a deal on at the mo...150 all in....should i do it or stick with my tried and trusted independant..?
 
just had some mailshot through my door this morning from the dealership i bought the car from 3 and a half years ago...apparantly my timing belt is due for replacement???....:shrug:like i didnt know:lol:.....

anyway they got a deal on at the mo...150 all in....should i do it or stick with my tried and trusted independant..?

Stick with a specialist whenever possible...have you phoned them to see if they will price match?
 
thats what i thought buddy...i havent asked because that is soooo cheap, dont think it could be matched. thats what i told you before, funds are slightly tight at the mo, but 150 i could of raised....but the dealership doesnt know my car is modded so they probably wouldnt touch it anyway

still be half assed though cos you need a major at the same time
 
thats what i thought buddy...i havent asked because that is soooo cheap, dont think it could be matched. thats what i told you before, funds are slightly tight at the mo, but 150 i could of raised....but the dealership doesnt know my car is modded so they probably wouldnt touch it anyway

still be half assed though cos you need a major at the same time

In that case take the dealership up on their offer. If they ask whether its modded just tell them "no, I bought it like that"

I'd rather use a dealership than nothing at all...
 
what else do i need at the same time?

This is what my last (4 year) service consisted of....

Carry out full service + quantum oil

1.00 Oil filter
4.00 Spark Plug
1.00 Quantum Longlife III Engine Oil 5W-30
1.00 Sump Plug With Washer
1.00 Holts ScreenWash
1.00 Wynns Engine Oil Flush
1.00 Panel Filter
1.00 Water Pump
1.00 Cam Belt Kit (timing belt/tensioner/rollers)

Obviously all fluids were checked and topped up where required...

I had my brake fluid changed 10k ago so didnt need it doing now (water content 3%) but usually its every 20k
 
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Do it for peace of mind! I had mine done at 60k with water pump for £400-420 and I know thats cheaper than new valves and head work!
 
I know what you mean, they probably are, but I have spoken to someone who has seen the metal ones go more than just once. I was just wondering if I'm not better off using the metal one but then still replacing it every 40k or if I'm still running the risk. I can imagine that when the metal ones do go it would be very expensive.
 
I think the chances of the plastic impellors shattering are a lot greater than the metal, if they break they disperse throughout the cooling galleries and are virtually impossible to extract, so you don't really know if the engine is cooling properly.

If you are doing a cambelt then change the water pump, but if there is not a lot wrong other wise I would not bother. saying that though this is a very specific car question and I don't have a great deal of in depth knowledge on the LCR!