what have you done to your car today ?

Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
581
259
Ah ****. [mention]iammooks [/mention] hit 1.8t parts for sale on Facebook someone will have one


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Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
581
259
Well I’ve tagged the wrong person and it won’t let me edit it. Win some loose some


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Connor H

Active Member
Dec 19, 2019
787
368
Essex
The more I look into boost gauges the more of a ball ache it seems to be on a diesel. I'm reading that the best place to plumb it in is just below the elbow boost pipe that connects to the EGR and that you have to cut a thread in the plastic. I'm not sure I trust a thread I've cut into plastic with that much pressure.

Any other TDI people running boost gauges who can advise?

On top of that, what's the best a-pillar pod.that actually fits?


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Personally used the vent mount instead, i couldnt find any pillar pods except for a website that looked quite old.
 

Rich.T

Active Member
Feb 15, 2020
614
303
The more I look into boost gauges the more of a ball ache it seems to be on a diesel. I'm reading that the best place to plumb it in is just below the elbow boost pipe that connects to the EGR and that you have to cut a thread in the plastic. I'm not sure I trust a thread I've cut into plastic with that much pressure.

Any other TDI people running boost gauges who can advise?

On top of that, what's the best a-pillar pod.that actually fits?


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All a boost gauge will tell you is that you need to stop stalling and get on with cleaning out the manifold and turbo 😉

On a more serious note.
Is there anything that can be done on the pd to stop boost leaks?
Those hose ends with the C lips are awfull.

My pipe ends used to wobble about if i grabbed them and i had to replace 2 pipes as they would occasionally blow out under pressure due to the little nipple bits wearing down on the metal ends due to the movement.

Rich
 

iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
782
397
Personally used the vent mount instead, i couldnt find any pillar pods except for a website that looked quite old.
It looks like that'll be the route I'll have to take. Slightly less obvious too... The girlfriend will be less embarrassed. Do I have to buy the whole housing or can I just replace the vent insert?

All a boost gauge will tell you is that you need to stop stalling and get on with cleaning out the manifold and turbo

On a more serious note.
Is there anything that can be done on the pd to stop boost leaks?
Those hose ends with the C lips are awfull.

Rich
Holy crap... It's like you're in my head... OK, OK, I'll do it when I've got a few days free.

I had my pancake pipe blow off because of those c-clips. That required a change of underpants. It made a hell of a noise.


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Sl1ced

Active Member
Oct 10, 2020
581
259
It looks like that'll be the route I'll have to take. Slightly less obvious too... The girlfriend will be less embarrassed. Do I have to buy the whole housing or can I just replace the vent insert?



Holy crap... It's like you're in my head... OK, OK, I'll do it when I've got a few days free.

I had my pancake pipe blow off because of those c-clips. That required a change of underpants. It made a hell of a noise.


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Connor H

Active Member
Dec 19, 2019
787
368
Essex


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Thats the boy. I will admit though its a sod of a job lol
Can confirm Cookbots work well (didn't go for the camber adjustment though, just increased castor)
Ah so thats what those little guys are. I have browsed the entirety of Cbauto's site a few times now

These look like good upgrades, wish someone showed me them before i got these sh*te powerflex ones
 

bruceR

Active Member
Apr 11, 2005
2,345
446
Monifieth, Dundee
I would personally go for the vent pod with the slats, this would still let some air through the vent


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Connor H

Active Member
Dec 19, 2019
787
368
Essex
I would personally go for the vent pod with the slats, this would still let some air through the vent


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Oh dear thats much better, one for the watchlist that
 

Yellow fr

Old smoker with a bit of poke
Sep 6, 2018
1,328
914
Shipley West Yorkshire
The more I look into boost gauges the more of a ball ache it seems to be on a diesel. I'm reading that the best place to plumb it in is just below the elbow boost pipe that connects to the EGR and that you have to cut a thread in the plastic. I'm not sure I trust a thread I've cut into plastic with that much pressure.

Any other TDI people running boost gauges who can advise?

On top of that, what's the best a-pillar pod.that actually fits?


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I run mine from the egr delete pipe
I have a hard pipe kit and it came with the wrong size hole for the boost pressure sensor so I leaked every how and again so I found this


If you still have your egr that could be used for a boost gauge take off


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iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
782
397
I run mine from the egr delete pipe
I have a hard pipe kit and it came with the wrong size hole for the boost pressure sensor so I leaked every how and again so I found this


If you still have your egr that could be used for a boost gauge take off


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Of course I still have my EGR valve - I'm terrified of doing anything that might make the MoT man angry.



Yes, I know my engine bay needs a clean, but where would you run it from? If I can avoid cutting a thread below the boost pipe, that would be marvellous.

While I'm at it, one of the grommets on my engine cover has had the plastic retaining piece come out - well, half of it. Can I get a replacement or is there a fix I can do? It always gets left on the engine when I take it off and then it doesn't go back together properly again.




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iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
782
397
@iammooks
I'm pretty sure I have a spare TDI engine cover grommet tucked away somewhere.
I won't be able to check until Thursday at the earliest though.

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That'd be awesome. Shall I harass you in a couple of days then?

What annoys me the most is that that half of the plastic surround came off when I did my cambelt. The guy who was helping me picked it up and chucked it. I didn't realise what it was until a few weeks later...
 

Yellow fr

Old smoker with a bit of poke
Sep 6, 2018
1,328
914
Shipley West Yorkshire
That'd be awesome. Shall I harass you in a couple of days then?

What annoys me the most is that that half of the plastic surround came off when I did my cambelt. The guy who was helping me picked it up and chucked it. I didn't realise what it was until a few weeks later...
I have a spare engine cover if you want one
I would use that map sensor spacer with a boost pipe take off on it I will get a picture off it fitted on my boost pipe


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iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
782
397
I have a spare engine cover if you want one
I would use that map sensor spacer with a boost pipe take off on it I will get a picture off it fitted on my boost pipe


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That's great - gives me an excuse to put a different deadening material on it - the one I replaced mine with has come unstuck.

When I was checking the engine over I noticed this on the material...



When you look at the engine, it turns out it's coming from one of these two lines:



Those are fuel lines.

Now I don't know if they're feed lines or return lines, but it's fair to say I don't want fuel leaking. It's possible my engine cover lining is too thick and that's making the line less secure, but they're short enough that it might be better just to change them.

Has anyone done this on the ARL engine? I'm guessing it's just unclip and replace, but wanted to check in case I might end up getting air somewhere it's not supposed to be. Given I've unplugged the same lines to change the fuel filter, I'm guessing not, but want to be sure.

If anyone has a part number or something they know will work, that'd be awesome too.


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Connor H

Active Member
Dec 19, 2019
787
368
Essex
That's great - gives me an excuse to put a different deadening material on it - the one I replaced mine with has come unstuck.

When I was checking the engine over I noticed this on the material...



When you look at the engine, it turns out it's coming from one of these two lines:



Those are fuel lines.

Now I don't know if they're feed lines or return lines, but it's fair to say I don't want fuel leaking. It's possible my engine cover lining is too thick and that's making the line less secure, but they're short enough that it might be better just to change them.

Has anyone done this on the ARL engine? I'm guessing it's just unclip and replace, but wanted to check in case I might end up getting air somewhere it's not supposed to be. Given I've unplugged the same lines to change the fuel filter, I'm guessing not, but want to be sure.

If anyone has a part number or something they know will work, that'd be awesome too.


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One of the first things i changed after cleaning my engine bay. I just used some fuel hose from halfords. Also i think blue is return just fyi

if you want the hose formed and what not then yeah youll need a part number

oh if you do change them its prob worth pulling the pump relay and emptying the fuel lines first, or have some rags handy if you didnt like me
 
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CooptoCupra

Active Member
Mar 2, 2013
120
15
Leicestershire
I always wanted the top force evo buggy. But then I started racing them. Any one who raced 1/10 off road will know what one of these are View attachment 22075

Tenth technology predator mmmmmmm
I used to race 1/10th off road around the UK, I had a Losi JRX2, carbon chassis, quick shift servos etc, loved it! Those little cars had some go!!

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