what have you done to your car today ?
- Thread starter seatcupramad23
- Start date
Personally used the vent mount instead, i couldnt find any pillar pods except for a website that looked quite old.
All a boost gauge will tell you is that you need to stop stalling and get on with cleaning out the manifold and turbo
On a more serious note.
Is there anything that can be done on the pd to stop boost leaks?
Those hose ends with the C lips are awfull.
My pipe ends used to wobble about if i grabbed them and i had to replace 2 pipes as they would occasionally blow out under pressure due to the little nipple bits wearing down on the metal ends due to the movement.
Rich
Can confirm Cookbots work well (didn't go for the camber adjustment though, just increased castor)
It looks like that'll be the route I'll have to take. Slightly less obvious too... The girlfriend will be less embarrassed. Do I have to buy the whole housing or can I just replace the vent insert?
Holy crap... It's like you're in my head... OK, OK, I'll do it when I've got a few days free.All a boost gauge will tell you is that you need to stop stalling and get on with cleaning out the manifold and turbo
On a more serious note.
Is there anything that can be done on the pd to stop boost leaks?
Those hose ends with the C lips are awfull.
Rich
I had my pancake pipe blow off because of those c-clips. That required a change of underpants. It made a hell of a noise.
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Seat Leon Mk1 1M Air Vent Pod Gauge Holder - Gloss Black | eBay
Seat Leon MK1 1M Air Vent Single Gauge Holder. Gauge holders are made fromg loss black ABS so they will not require painting (White version is best if you decide to paint custom colour). Holes are made to fit a52mm Gauge (boost, oil pressure, water temp, ect).
www.ebay.co.uk
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Thats the boy. I will admit though its a sod of a job lolSeat Leon Mk1 1M Air Vent Pod Gauge Holder - Gloss Black | eBay
Seat Leon MK1 1M Air Vent Single Gauge Holder. Gauge holders are made fromg loss black ABS so they will not require painting (White version is best if you decide to paint custom colour). Holes are made to fit a52mm Gauge (boost, oil pressure, water temp, ect).www.ebay.co.uk
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Ah so thats what those little guys are. I have browsed the entirety of Cbauto's site a few times now
These look like good upgrades, wish someone showed me them before i got these sh*te powerflex ones
I would personally go for the vent pod with the slats, this would still let some air through the vent
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**NEW** Seat Leon Mk1 1M Cupra R Cupra Air Vent Pod Gauge Holder - Black | eBay
Custom printed 52mm gauge Pod holder for any MK1 Seat leon 1m. Simple and effective, this gauge holder does not block your vents allowing air to move from the vent as it normally would. Very easy to fit, just pop out the existing fins in your vent and push this in.
www.ebay.co.uk
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Oh dear thats much better, one for the watchlist thatI would personally go for the vent pod with the slats, this would still let some air through the vent
**NEW** Seat Leon Mk1 1M Cupra R Cupra Air Vent Pod Gauge Holder - Black | eBay
Custom printed 52mm gauge Pod holder for any MK1 Seat leon 1m. Simple and effective, this gauge holder does not block your vents allowing air to move from the vent as it normally would. Very easy to fit, just pop out the existing fins in your vent and push this in.www.ebay.co.uk
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I run mine from the egr delete pipe
I have a hard pipe kit and it came with the wrong size hole for the boost pressure sensor so I leaked every how and again so I found this
If you still have your egr that could be used for a boost gauge take off
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Of course I still have my EGR valve - I'm terrified of doing anything that might make the MoT man angry.I run mine from the egr delete pipe
I have a hard pipe kit and it came with the wrong size hole for the boost pressure sensor so I leaked every how and again so I found this
If you still have your egr that could be used for a boost gauge take off
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Yes, I know my engine bay needs a clean, but where would you run it from? If I can avoid cutting a thread below the boost pipe, that would be marvellous.
While I'm at it, one of the grommets on my engine cover has had the plastic retaining piece come out - well, half of it. Can I get a replacement or is there a fix I can do? It always gets left on the engine when I take it off and then it doesn't go back together properly again.
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@iammooks
I'm pretty sure I have a spare TDI engine cover grommet tucked away somewhere.
I won't be able to check until Thursday at the earliest though.
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I'm pretty sure I have a spare TDI engine cover grommet tucked away somewhere.
I won't be able to check until Thursday at the earliest though.
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That'd be awesome. Shall I harass you in a couple of days then?
What annoys me the most is that that half of the plastic surround came off when I did my cambelt. The guy who was helping me picked it up and chucked it. I didn't realise what it was until a few weeks later...
I have a spare engine cover if you want one
I would use that map sensor spacer with a boost pipe take off on it I will get a picture off it fitted on my boost pipe
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That's great - gives me an excuse to put a different deadening material on it - the one I replaced mine with has come unstuck.
When I was checking the engine over I noticed this on the material...
When you look at the engine, it turns out it's coming from one of these two lines:
Those are fuel lines.
Now I don't know if they're feed lines or return lines, but it's fair to say I don't want fuel leaking. It's possible my engine cover lining is too thick and that's making the line less secure, but they're short enough that it might be better just to change them.
Has anyone done this on the ARL engine? I'm guessing it's just unclip and replace, but wanted to check in case I might end up getting air somewhere it's not supposed to be. Given I've unplugged the same lines to change the fuel filter, I'm guessing not, but want to be sure.
If anyone has a part number or something they know will work, that'd be awesome too.
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One of the first things i changed after cleaning my engine bay. I just used some fuel hose from halfords. Also i think blue is return just fyiThat's great - gives me an excuse to put a different deadening material on it - the one I replaced mine with has come unstuck.
When I was checking the engine over I noticed this on the material...
When you look at the engine, it turns out it's coming from one of these two lines:
Those are fuel lines.
Now I don't know if they're feed lines or return lines, but it's fair to say I don't want fuel leaking. It's possible my engine cover lining is too thick and that's making the line less secure, but they're short enough that it might be better just to change them.
Has anyone done this on the ARL engine? I'm guessing it's just unclip and replace, but wanted to check in case I might end up getting air somewhere it's not supposed to be. Given I've unplugged the same lines to change the fuel filter, I'm guessing not, but want to be sure.
If anyone has a part number or something they know will work, that'd be awesome too.
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if you want the hose formed and what not then yeah youll need a part number
oh if you do change them its prob worth pulling the pump relay and emptying the fuel lines first, or have some rags handy if you didnt like me
I used to race 1/10th off road around the UK, I had a Losi JRX2, carbon chassis, quick shift servos etc, loved it! Those little cars had some go!!
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