Glad you've sorted it out. Everything tight? Does it sits in the same distante to the floor?
what have you done to your car today ?
- Thread starter seatcupramad23
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Do you have a vice at all ?
Good work with the fronts I always take the drive shaft nut off gives a bit more room just remember to put it back in to the wheel bearing before the shocker goes all the way in
The vice with help with holding the shocker when it comes to unbolting it from the top mount
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Good work with the fronts I always take the drive shaft nut off gives a bit more room just remember to put it back in to the wheel bearing before the shocker goes all the way in
The vice with help with holding the shocker when it comes to unbolting it from the top mount
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Finally someone who uses their garage as a garage. My brother just turned a bloody DOUBLE garage into a bar. I can't imagine what I'd do if I had that space, but it would involve a restoration that's for certain - not a bar.
No vice, but the noisy gun came in handy getting the old front shocks out without messing about with the allen key business. I've seen someone do the same with the rears once they've got the top cap thing off, so hopefully that'll work.
To be honest the only reason I didn't take the driveshaft out, other than because the wheels were off and the car was off the ground, was that there's so much conflicting information about torque specs etc. I've seen some people say to torque it higher than my 3/8 torque wrench will do, and then turn the wheel before doing a half turn, and others just saying to torque it to 110nm, which seems too low.
No idea at the moment. I'm desperate to get it back on its wheels and to see how much difference it's made, but until I can do the ball joint it's going to stay on axle stands.
That reminds me - I need to find that part number again so I can put an order in. It had only been in for six months too...
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Sounds like the good old Haynes inspired phrase “Fitment is the reverse of removal? Like f$@k is it!”
Good to see it’s back together, just don’t question it else it might notice and go wrong somewhere else
It wouldn't have been so bad if the last few jobs I've done on the car hadn't been total pigs.
You're spot on when it comes to the Haynes thing. It's even worse when you haven't done the job before and none of the guides say anything about how hard it is to get it all back together.
Glad I went back and finished the job today though. I was going to wait until Wednesday when the weather was supposed to be better and my legs had recovered, but just went for it and it was a lot easier than I thought it would be after what happened yesterday.
So just the rears to do once I can get the front wheels on the ground again, last two fuel hoses and new fuel filter, and I can start doing fun stuff like the boost gauge and paint.
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Don’t forget to get the tracking done when the car is back on all four wheels
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The replacement ball joint arrived today so I was straight out to fit that. Decided that as it was a lovely afternoon I'd do the rear shocks as well.
Much, much easier than the fronts - but I can see where the vice comment came from. Managed to do it with an offset spanner and a mix of adjustable spanners and vice grips.
All went well until I tried to put the offside rear most bolt in and it just wasn't having it. It's the one that's slightly obscured by the wheel arch liner. It goes on so far but then just stops, and I'm not going to force it.
Tried brake cleaner, wire brush, compressed air... Not happening. I don't know if the thread is damaged but I'll either sleep on it or I'll just take it to a garage.
Haven't driven it, but it's much more stable when you try to rock the car, so at least there's that.
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Much, much easier than the fronts - but I can see where the vice comment came from. Managed to do it with an offset spanner and a mix of adjustable spanners and vice grips.
All went well until I tried to put the offside rear most bolt in and it just wasn't having it. It's the one that's slightly obscured by the wheel arch liner. It goes on so far but then just stops, and I'm not going to force it.
Tried brake cleaner, wire brush, compressed air... Not happening. I don't know if the thread is damaged but I'll either sleep on it or I'll just take it to a garage.
Haven't driven it, but it's much more stable when you try to rock the car, so at least there's that.
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Sounds like you're cross threading it. Takes a suprising amount of force against the arch liner to get the angle right
It's what it feels like. I'm tempted to even undo the arch liner torx bolts so I can get the angle right.
I had a similar problem on the other side, but it came good eventually.
Luckily I didn't do anything stupid before calling it a night. It was getting too dark to see what I was doing anyway.
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Yep - I got tired of fighting the liner in the end. I could push it back with a screwdriver for maybe two turns of the ratchet, but then I got tired or lazy or both and it moved back and knocked the bolt out of line.
We all know these cars fight back though - and it'd be boring otherwise.
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Think I started mine by hand, just getting it behind the liner, then when confident it was alright got the ratchet on it
Nice afternoon, so decided to try the rear shock bolt again. Took off the arch liner as much as I could (one of the Torx screws is totally rounded out) but tried over and over to get the bolt in and it just wasn't going.
Tried swapping the bolts over to see if that helped, and I couldn't get the bolt that was already threaded in on the other side. I'm thinking I've damaged the thread somehow. The bolt that I couldn't get in wouldn't go in on the other side either, so that bolt is probably damaged too. Have ordered a new one.
Wondering now what my next steps are. I've looked up Helicoils and I'm pretty sure I could do it, but I'd have to buy a whole kit at around £45 specifically for the one bolt and it seems a bit of a waste of money for something I'll only use once (hopefully). I'll give a garage or two a call tomorrow and see what they'll charge...
There are Helicoil 'style' kits on eBay for much, much less, if anyone has tried one of those?
I've got a tap and die set that I left up at the girlfriend's place and that has an M10 x 1.5 included - I don't suppose it can do much harm in the circumstances...
Thank you - one for the weekend, but I'm feeling a bit more hopeful now...
Maybe if you can get to the thread from inside the car itd be worth running the tap through from that side.
Never had the trim out from the boot area so not sure if this would be possible.
@Thai-wronghorse may know.
Never had the trim out from the boot area so not sure if this would be possible.
@Thai-wronghorse may know.
Don't do what I did.
Changed the front shocks.
Then the blasted CV boot quit a month later.
Guess who hadn't clamped the shock to the knuckle properly?
Some monster potholes did the rest, tearing the metal tab & shoving the shock
through enough to shred the gaiter beneath.
Dime Bar!
Changed the front shocks.
Then the blasted CV boot quit a month later.
Guess who hadn't clamped the shock to the knuckle properly?
Some monster potholes did the rest, tearing the metal tab & shoving the shock
through enough to shred the gaiter beneath.
Dime Bar!
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