fitting my new blueflame

[owen lcr]

Hi folks, i just bought a turbo back blueflame exhaust for my cupra R, just wondering if i need a new gasket for between the turbo and the downpipe before i remove the old exhaust and realise that i dont have a gasket it

cheers owen

 

[ArosaRacer]

yes!

 

[The MoffMeister]

as above and also locking nuts on the exhaust from the dealer!!

 

[Scotty_b]

Dont bother getting the nuts from the dealer as there £2 odd each and there just stock locking nuts (m12 i think)

 

[grey_uk]

gaskets

What about the other joins in the exhaust i.e. dp to cat and cat to silencer? do you need gaskets for these?

Cheers

 

[Balf2k]

No no gasket needed for any joins after the downpipe, use some clear all purpose silicone like you buy for your bathroom and smear a thin coat on the mating surfaces. Makes a perfect seal and it's easy to get off if you ever take the exhaust apart. Don't worry, the silicone will not melt / burn, it smells for half hour or so for the first time the exhaust gets hot and may smoke but it WILL stop after a short period.

 

[Yumann]

Bathroom silicone for 700 odd degrees

Use new gaskets and some exhaust cement also. Locking nuts dont use nyloc use crushed lock nuts

 

[Mitchy]

Has anyone had any problems with fault codes and the 100 cel cat?

Im now and again getting 2 codes related to the efficiency of the cat. Luckily i have a fault code reader and just wipe them straight away but ive had them pop up twice in 2 weeks now.

Also ive noticed it breathes and pulls better up the top end but i do feel its a little more sluggish down at the bottom end, there seems to have been a trade off, either for more lag or a drop in low down torque?

Its 3'' going into 100cel cat and mating up with supersprint cat back which i think is 2.75''

Also when cold, exhaust is quite a bit louder but it settles down when warmed up

Are these normal symptoms of this BF setup?

 

[RobM]

Can I add to Mitchy's questions and ask about the MOT side of things? Do the 100 cel cats always pass an MOT? Or do you need to switch back to the standard cat for test time?

 

[Mitchy]

Will find out next year when i go for mine but been told they sail through emissions test.

 

[Yumann]

Has anyone had any problems with fault codes and the 100 cel cat?

Also when cold, exhaust is quite a bit louder but it settles down when warmed up

My one throws codes every now and again saying dodgy cat and thats with a 200 cell. Not every 2weeks tho. Also been for mot and passes no probs.

With my miltek it is a lot louder when cold and tends to pop a bit too.

 

[Mitchy]

Ive had a few pops aswell when giving the car a good ragging. It sounds like the same pops i used to get from my scooby when it threw a flame out the back end. I wonder if my LCR is spitting a flame now and again

Its much better up the top end now though, it does make it rev easier and the turbo spools quite a bit louder than before.

 

[J@mes]

Has anyone had any problems with fault codes and the 100 cel cat?

Im now and again getting 2 codes related to the efficiency of the cat. Luckily i have a fault code reader and just wipe them straight away but ive had them pop up twice in 2 weeks now.

Also ive noticed it breathes and pulls better up the top end but i do feel its a little more sluggish down at the bottom end, there seems to have been a trade off, either for more lag or a drop in low down torque?

Its 3'' going into 100cel cat and mating up with supersprint cat back which i think is 2.75''

Also when cold, exhaust is quite a bit louder but it settles down when warmed up

Are these normal symptoms of this BF setup?

mitch i assume this will help you...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2657329 (read all!)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1366095 (read the first and last page!)

 

[J@mes]

Hi folks, i just bought a turbo back blueflame exhaust for my cupra R, just wondering if i need a new gasket for between the turbo and the downpipe before i remove the old exhaust and realise that i dont have a gasket it

cheers owen

the 2 part numbers you need...

N903 690 01
8L9 253 115A

which are for the original DP crush gasket and three 10mm locking nuts


its about £7 all in from memmory... and despite what Scott has said re the locking nuts (which are £2 each!) i would still use them rather than normal locking nuts as the only locking nuts i have seen have had blue plastic lock bits where as these looked more like brownyblack metal if u see what i mean?!)


obviously its up to you but for a few pence more its not worth the risk IMHO!



hope this helps!

 

[DPJ]

Will find out next year when i go for mine but been told they sail through emissions test.

My BF 100 cell sailed through emission test by a wide margin.

 

[Mitchy]

Hmm Cheers J@mes

It seems like a lot of fecking around just to clear the light that pops up now and again (ordering from US etc)

It only takes 2 mins to clear the light so i think i'll just bare with it.

So is it the DP thats causing the problem, or the cat? Surely something BF should have taken into account when designing it as its obviously not right!

DPJ...Do you get the same fault codes?

 

[Mitchy]

J@mes.... How long does it take to do this? Is it a 5 min job with correct part?

Is Wayne's solution the best in your top link and does it just screw straight in?

 

[J@mes]

Hmm. Cheers J@mes.

It seems like a lot of fecking around just to clear the light that pops up now and again (ordering from US etc)

It only takes 2 mins to clear the light so i think i'll just bare with it.

So is it the DP thats causing the problem, or the cat?...

assuming your getting the same sort of codes i had (cat efficiency etc) then this is due to the DP/CAT being a performance one/freer flowing than oe and thus the car/lambda probes realises it, but as a result thinks the cat is fcuked when it is not.

by not spacing the rear lambda probe you will be constantly clearing codes and the car will be adapting all the time right?! so surely its worth the hassle of getting a non fouler sent from the US?! its a 30 min job max to fit! definitely worth while, especially with ur new turbo chucking out more gases once mapped?!

my 2p

 

[Mitchy]

Cheers james, i will look into it when it starts to get on my nerves lol.

Would buying Wayne's piece be the easier solution? (saves messing around with lots of tools)

Is it just a case of unsrewing the probe, screwing this piece into the thread and then screwing the probe into this.

http://www.hostdub.com/albums/Newt/secondary_O2_sensor_angle_block_004.sized.jpg

 

[J@mes]

J@mes.... How long does it take to do this? Is it a 5 min job with correct part?

Is Wayne's solution the best in your top link and does it just screw straight in?

waynes solution is basically the same as the "Help" spark plug non foulers i bought, but about double the price (waynes is $30, where as the TWO different help parts are $15 together, plus u get two of each part u need so u can sell that!)

i gave mine to scott, so sorry... i knew i should have bought a few!


i can pm u the company i used if needed?! (think it was rockauto.com)
cost me £12 i think shipped to my door. i payed for the cheapest shipping which was meant to take about 2 weeks or so, but i had it on my door step in 3 days! i couldn't believe it!


as for fitting they are both the same, they screw into the cat and the lambda probe screws into it, BUT the Help parts need to be carefully drilled out so the lambda probe can fit into it properly, whereas waynes is ready to go!