-
Hey Guest👍👎 We're looking for reviews of your local CUPRA or SEAT Dealership - it's quick and easy to do: Leave a review now
Cheers buddy your a star
I had never heard of this mod before and had never read it here on SCN either
I think i'll go for Wayne's solution as it saves messing about with drilling
$35 dollars shipped is nothing really, about £20 to my door
I'll mail him in the next week to get this sorted
I had never heard of this mod before and had never read it here on SCN either
I think i'll go for Wayne's solution as it saves messing about with drilling
$35 dollars shipped is nothing really, about £20 to my door
I'll mail him in the next week to get this sorted
i spent blooody ages searching into this as i had the problem a while ago... i even tried slowing down the sample rate of the lambda probes from 0 milli secs to - 200 milli secs, but evetually the CEL came back!
basically there are not many stage 2 jabba ppl out there compared to revo/apr maps etc which all adjust/turn off the tolerance of the rear lambda probe (for the efficiency part of it) in the stage 2 map.
also just because you have a stage 2 jabba map doesn't mean u will have this problem, its a slim chance i think. also i think because i have an aggressive map it took it JUST over the tolerance of the lambda probes.
mike said to me he hadn't had this problem before and he suggested i spaced it out to try and fix this problem, but otherwise the only other way was for him to put the car back on the RR and find the rear lambda in the map and adjust/turn the tolerance off (which may take a couple of hours!)
EDIT: id email wayne asap IMHO as its getting closer and closer to xmas! (royal snail etc)
basically there are not many stage 2 jabba ppl out there compared to revo/apr maps etc which all adjust/turn off the tolerance of the rear lambda probe (for the efficiency part of it) in the stage 2 map.
also just because you have a stage 2 jabba map doesn't mean u will have this problem, its a slim chance i think. also i think because i have an aggressive map it took it JUST over the tolerance of the lambda probes.
mike said to me he hadn't had this problem before and he suggested i spaced it out to try and fix this problem, but otherwise the only other way was for him to put the car back on the RR and find the rear lambda in the map and adjust/turn the tolerance off (which may take a couple of hours!)
EDIT: id email wayne asap IMHO as its getting closer and closer to xmas! (royal snail etc)
Last edited:
Might I just add, I was told to use silicone sealant by 'Nigel from BlueFlame' himself before anyone tries to mock my advice again. The sealant really does do a top job - For any exhaust with flat flange mating faces I would use it. Ring blue flame and ask them if you should use silicone to see for yourself!
OK no worries, just out of interest though, who has had their hanger on the cat section ripped off of their BF 100 cell cat. I went to drive to London a couple of weeks ago when the LCR got incredibly loud, I limped home, jacked it up and the hanger that goes into the rubber mount had completely ripped off and left a hole the size of a fifty pence piece just forward of my cat. After only a couple of months from new I was disgraced, telephoned BF and had to send my cat off to them to be repaired, they sent it back with like a double support for the hanger now. So any LCR owners here with the BF 100 cell cat, keep an eye on where the hanger is welded, it may be cracking already, just thought i'd mention it 
OK no worries, just out of interest though, who has had their hanger on the cat section ripped off of their BF 100 cell cat. I went to drive to London a couple of weeks ago when the LCR got incredibly loud, I limped home, jacked it up and the hanger that goes into the rubber mount had completely ripped off and left a hole the size of a fifty pence piece just forward of my cat. After only a couple of months from new I was disgraced, telephoned BF and had to send my cat off to them to be repaired, they sent it back with like a double support for the hanger now. So any LCR owners here with the BF 100 cell cat, keep an eye on where the hanger is welded, it may be cracking already, just thought i'd mention it
some BF welds can be dodgy!
im on my 3rd DP!
because of me and phil they have checnged the DP to a much better/stronger design!
its horrible being the ginnie pig and all the hassle of having to investigate the problem and try different things until something works...
but comments like this make it worth it!
i think lol.
well i know u 2 appreciate it as its a bloody annoying problem/hassel... wait until its been with u for 2 months mitch!
Cheers buddy your a star
but comments like this make it worth it!
i think lol.well i know u 2 appreciate it as its a bloody annoying problem/hassel... wait until its been with u for 2 months mitch!
grey_uk
Guest
Just got the exhaust out of the box and guess what, the downpipe has a crack in it down one of the welds.
James you said they have a new design for the DP, do you know what the difference is and when they did it?
Will have to phone them tomorrow and try and get them to send out a new one![[:@]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/furious.gif "Furious [:@]")
James you said they have a new design for the DP, do you know what the difference is and when they did it?
Will have to phone them tomorrow and try and get them to send out a new one
old design... the broken one is the 1st DP i had (lasted 6months i think), which got replaced within 24hrs under warranty for the same type... that then went after 4 months... same weld... all due to crap welding on the weakest point of the DP again! (the centre of the bend!)
they then made this new design, which touch would has been fine... its a lot stronger too with virtical welds rather than horizontal welds which were prone to twist more from engine movement and that weak point in the centre of the bend has thus now gone. touch would it has been ok for about 5 months/4.5k miles now
they then made this new design, which touch would has been fine... its a lot stronger too with virtical welds rather than horizontal welds which were prone to twist more from engine movement and that weak point in the centre of the bend has thus now gone. touch would it has been ok for about 5 months/4.5k miles now
My new version had a crack/hole in it too. Spoke to nigel and agreed to let me weld it and if it fooked up i could get a full refund on my system
I think BF need to start sort out their welding!... its like they rush their jobs and as a result welds dont penetrate properly etc etc. i mean on mine there is a bit of weld splatter as i guess they rushed it to get it out to me asap!
EDIT:
and as for my first two DPs that are also on many other cars... well the two that broke on mine, broke in the exactly the same place/weld, which happened to be the weakest part of the DP, also the hardest part to weld, and the weld on that part was simply crap and didn't penetrate properly and thus went... their welding obviously isn't consistent as i have seen someone elses DP (original deign) and the centre weld had a lot more weld on it compared to mine! this is why it had cracked!
its a shame really as i think their system is very good (well i now do lol.. and i love mine! ), but their inconsistency and customer behaviour is very poor!
EDIT:
and as for my first two DPs that are also on many other cars... well the two that broke on mine, broke in the exactly the same place/weld, which happened to be the weakest part of the DP, also the hardest part to weld, and the weld on that part was simply crap and didn't penetrate properly and thus went... their welding obviously isn't consistent as i have seen someone elses DP (original deign) and the centre weld had a lot more weld on it compared to mine! this is why it had cracked!
its a shame really as i think their system is very good (well i now do lol.. and i love mine!
), but their inconsistency and customer behaviour is very poor!
Last edited:
grey_uk
Guest
Thats the same design as mine and i have a 10mm crack on the inside weld of the curve. do you think Nigel will send out a new one or will it need to go back and be repaired? The system is still in the box and only 2 days old.
I must say that some of the other welds look a bit crap two, not very impressed so far.
I must say that some of the other welds look a bit crap two, not very impressed so far.
which DP do u have? old or new design?!
either way i would send the whole system back and say the welds are crap and that u want a another one... say ur mechanic took one look at it and refused to fit it, especially after finding a crack in the DP!!!!
and say u know "someone" and want the mk2 DP not the original!
either that or u need to get the original DP strengthened like this (with a brace and decent welds!)...
Last edited:
Feck me thats shocking
I take it they mig it? Cause that looks as bad as stick lol
yep mig welds.
i have been told tig is better, neater and stronger.
but i have also been told that mig should be used for exhausts as they are less brittle than tig and as long as they are welded 100% sufficiently then should be fine...
i think i have opened a can of worms here!
grey_uk
Guest
which DP do u have? old or new design?!
either way i would send the whole system back and say the welds are crap and that u want a another one... say ur mechanic took one look at it and refused to fit it, especially after finding a crack in the DP!!!!
and say u know "someone" and want the mk2 DP not the original!
either that or u need to get the original DP strengthened like this (with a brace and decent welds!)...
I have the new design but i will speak to nige tomorrow about replacing it.
Cheers
Similar threads
