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Ok so here's the update.
I raised the back by 1.5cm as it was just too low. The exhaust was hitting speedbumps. Going back to 16" inch will put it lower yet...so it had to be done
Here's the result
and where the calliper just clears the rim
But there is a problem which I don't quite understand, so hoping for some help
I bought conical bolts as these BBS rims needed those. The bolts are slightly longer than the OEM bolts, however the threaded part is just as long.
But the wheels don't turn. It seems like the brakes are on full or something?
Strange thing is that the brakes are in no way hitting the rims...but yet all 4 wheels don't spin at all anymore.
Could this be due to the bolts being too long and catching on something inside the hub?
Help please
I raised the back by 1.5cm as it was just too low. The exhaust was hitting speedbumps. Going back to 16" inch will put it lower yet...so it had to be done
Here's the result
and where the calliper just clears the rim
But there is a problem which I don't quite understand, so hoping for some help
I bought conical bolts as these BBS rims needed those. The bolts are slightly longer than the OEM bolts, however the threaded part is just as long.
But the wheels don't turn. It seems like the brakes are on full or something?
Strange thing is that the brakes are in no way hitting the rims...but yet all 4 wheels don't spin at all anymore.
Could this be due to the bolts being too long and catching on something inside the hub?
Help please
What do you mean Hooch? I haven't f***ed anything as I haven't driven with it yet.
If I put my other rims back on with the oem bolt then there is no problem?
Care to elaborate your answer?
At a guess, even though you say the BOLTS are the same thread length, could the RIMS be slightly different in so much as the holes where the bolts go through being slightly less 'meaty' for want of a better word on the BBS's than your other rims?
which in turn means that the bolts sit further in, catching on something?
I know one of the Mk2 boys had a similar thing recently (binding) and it was the bolts needing cut a few mm just to sit them far enough away if I remember rightly
which in turn means that the bolts sit further in, catching on something?
I know one of the Mk2 boys had a similar thing recently (binding) and it was the bolts needing cut a few mm just to sit them far enough away if I remember rightly
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bolts too long. as you wind them in they hit the abs rings....
so yes you have ****ed something
so yes you have ****ed something
Yup you are hitting the abs ring, shorter bolts required and possibly new abs rings ouch!
Looks good though
Looks good though
you *might* be lucky in the fact you've not driven with them on.. it may only be that your pressing against the rings.. did you just try spinning the wheels with your hands or have you actually tried to drive?
I tried spinning the wheel and noticed that it wouldn;t budge.
Then when I had em on I released the handbrake and tried to push the car, but wouldn't budge...that's how I know...Hopefully I can cut the bolts to size tomorrow, and I'll see if the ABS rings have been nackered. The light will come on if they're ruined then correct?
thanks for help btw
Must say I do like the look of em on the car though
Then when I had em on I released the handbrake and tried to push the car, but wouldn't budge...that's how I know...Hopefully I can cut the bolts to size tomorrow, and I'll see if the ABS rings have been nackered. The light will come on if they're ruined then correct?
thanks for help btw
Must say I do like the look of em on the car though
dont drive it if you cut down the bolts as the bent abs rinds will then **** the sensors.
sort abs rings before ANYTHING
sort abs rings before ANYTHING
Ok a update on this. Good thing is, I wasn't hitting the ABS rings...
Bad thing is, I was hitting the front Audi TT callipers. Edit: please note that the absolute back of the calliper was already bare metal. I didn;t paint that part. Its only hitting on the 2 'bumps' on the calliper just past the piston.
That's why it wouldn't spin. And because the wheels are so closed I couldn't see the back part of the calliper hitting the inside of the rim.
Question is, can I mill part of the calliper there so that it does fit? Its there that the calliper stick out just a few MM more that the front of the calliper which does clear the rim (see picture posted few posts back)
Bad thing is, I was hitting the front Audi TT callipers. Edit: please note that the absolute back of the calliper was already bare metal. I didn;t paint that part. Its only hitting on the 2 'bumps' on the calliper just past the piston.
That's why it wouldn't spin. And because the wheels are so closed I couldn't see the back part of the calliper hitting the inside of the rim.
Question is, can I mill part of the calliper there so that it does fit? Its there that the calliper stick out just a few MM more that the front of the calliper which does clear the rim (see picture posted few posts back)
Hey Reuvers, looks nice.
10 or 15mm wheel spacers should fix your problem. If the wheels still fit under your fender then.
Thanks.
Yes this is what I was thinking too. I have milled part of the calliper down a slight bit and its no longer hitting the inside of the rim. However the back of the tyre is hitting my coilovers.
Guessing there is more people on here with this problem after dropping it.
I have 7.5J rims wrapped (for now) in 215 40 16, which I want to change in a while when funds are back, to 195-45-16.
But I am unsure whether to use 10mm (if that's enough) or 15mm (if that's not too much) spacers.
I have a set of 20mm lying around and tried those, and it was fine, however the bolts were too long. But 20mm was too much for my taste. Especially as I can only get a 10mm spacer on the rear...
What spacers are most people here using up front with slammed car, to clear coilies?
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