New car, 3rd day, yellow engine light :(

Scruff

Active Member
Mar 11, 2010
104
0
As the title suggests, the yellow engine light has come on :( only had the car three days, f***s sake! So, what does it mean? Can I get into any sort of diagnostic to see what it's pointing at? Car is an 02 cupra, pre facelift if that makes any difference.

Actually, according to the manual it's the diagnosis/excessive pollution light.
 

Scruff

Active Member
Mar 11, 2010
104
0
Luckily one of my mates is a roadside repair chap. He had an ODB2 reader. I can't remember the actual code that it brought up but was something to do with the air system so he had a look around it, couldn't see anything wrong and cleared the fault off. He eckoned it could just have been a one off.... fingers crossed! Thanks lee.
 

Scruff

Active Member
Mar 11, 2010
104
0

Don't mate, i've only just bought the car :( Got rid of my scooby in the hope that this'd be something cheap and easy to run. In the event that it could be the maf mucking about, is a new on expensive? Or, can i clean the one thats there?
 

MATTCR

FR
Mar 6, 2007
1,525
1
UK
I traded my old one in at GSF in exchange for a new one, total £35... :)

May not be the MAF but that was mu first thought.
 

Scruff

Active Member
Mar 11, 2010
104
0
GSF... German, Swedish and French? Didn't know they did an exchange service. Very handy to know! Thankyou mate :coolthumb
 
Dec 31, 2007
1,479
0
Reading
Indeed German Swedish French. They only do an exchange on certain items, same as the dealer do, waterpumps etc.
 

Cupra-cal

Active Member
Aug 30, 2008
139
0
Penicuik
As the title suggests, the yellow engine light has come on :( only had the car three days, f***s sake! So, what does it mean? Can I get into any sort of diagnostic to see what it's pointing at? Car is an 02 cupra, pre facelift if that makes any difference.

Actually, according to the manual it's the diagnosis/excessive pollution light.

i had this light come on when my cat went,got it replaced but it was still on.went back and it turned out someone had ordered the cat for a different model!!!! when they did put right one on it fixed the problem
 

adam cupra 20vt

Built Not Bought.
Mar 31, 2005
6,162
2
Mud Hut
I had an excahnge Bosh MAF from GSF but it was £66 not £35

Might not be anything to do with the MAF tho, when my light came on it was the secondary air injection system.

"I can't remember the actual code that it brought up but was something to do with the air system"

Could be this?
 

Scruff

Active Member
Mar 11, 2010
104
0
I had an excahnge Bosh MAF from GSF but it was £66 not £35

Might not be anything to do with the MAF tho, when my light came on it was the secondary air injection system.

"I can't remember the actual code that it brought up but was something to do with the air system"

Could be this?

Thats the one!! Secondary air injection. WHat did you have to do to fix it? We had a look around the engine bay and found nothing out of the ordinary so he reset the fault. Fingers crossed it was just a one off!
 

adam cupra 20vt

Built Not Bought.
Mar 31, 2005
6,162
2
Mud Hut
Thats the one!! Secondary air injection. WHat did you have to do to fix it? We had a look around the engine bay and found nothing out of the ordinary so he reset the fault. Fingers crossed it was just a one off!

Thought it might be.

The rivets that hold the pump together fail and the pump comes apart....this gives the code for incorrect flow.

You can drill the crappy rivets out and nut and bot it back together, £3 fix :D
 

Scruff

Active Member
Mar 11, 2010
104
0
Right-o..... given that i'm all a bit new the car, any chance you could put up a pic and point out which bit i'm gonna be taking apart? :)
 

jonesy118

Active Member
Mar 8, 2009
383
0
Cheshire
here's what you need to do mate.

Credit to Albo from UKMKIVS forum for this guide.

The noise from my Secondary Air Pump when starting from cold had been getting worse and worse and was slightly embarrassing. It sounded like a very loud vacuum cleaner for 90 seconds, followed by a huge dump valve noise.

After reading on UKMKIVS about repairing the secondary air pump, I decided to repair mine today. I tried to search for a guide but couldn’t find one, so here is mine.

The whole job took 2 hours. By far the longest part of the entire process was removing the pump from the car, especially getting to the Allen bolts. Putting it all back together was easy.

Tools used:
Trolley Jack
Axle Stands x 2
T20 Torx screwdriver
8mm Allen Key
10mm Socket
Flat bladed screwdriver
Electric drill with 4mm drill piece.

Parts required:
Six of each of the following:
4mm by 50mm bolts (I could have probably used 45mm long bolts but wasn’t sure until I got to that stage. They don’t get in the way of anything though)
4mm flat washers
4mm split washers
TOTAL COST LESS THAN £3


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Step 1
With the car jacked up and supported by axle stands, remove the front splash guard from behind the front bumper. There are 4 T20 Torx screws.

step1.jpg


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Step 2
Remove the hoses from the air pump. There are two hoses, one is hidden in the picture. These are held on by plastic clips and can be pulled off whilst squeezing the opposite sides of the hose to the clips (RED ARROWS). If they get stuck use a flat bladed screwdriver to carefully work the clips loose (YELLOW ARROWS). Remove the electrical connector from the pump (BLUE ARROW). Use a flat bladed screwdriver to gently prize the clip open and the plug will come off easily.


step2.jpg


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Step 3
Undo the three nuts holding the pump to the bracket using a 10mm socket. This allows easier access to the bracket bolts (one hidden in picture)

step3.jpg


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Step 4
Reach just above the pump using the long end of the 8mm Allen key and undo the lower two bracket bolts. The bolts are separated by two or three inches. You can move the pump as necessary to allow easier access and visibility. You may need to add an extension bar to the end of the Allen key to provide more leverage. The diagram shows the direction and position of the bolts obscured by the pump).

step4.jpg


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Step 5
With the bracket held on by only one bolt you can push the bracket towards the passenger side of the car, allowing the pump to be extracted.
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The following shows the separation of the pump allowing air to escape.

leak.jpg


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Step 6
Using a 4mm drill piece CAREFULLY drill each rivet until it breaks. The remainder of the rivet can be pushed out using the drill with it switched off.

step6.jpg


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Step 7
Replace each rivet with a bolt. Insert a flat washer then a split washer before the nut. The flat washer should stop the split washer from sinking in to the plastic casing and the nut working loose. You could also use threadlock in addition.

step7.jpg


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Step 8
Refit all the parts in the reverse order they were removed. Here it is finished.

finished.jpg
 

Scruff

Active Member
Mar 11, 2010
104
0
And there was me thinking someone'd just been out battling the elements with a camera for me ;)

Thats brilliant mate, thankyou very much. Job for tuesday i reckon!
 

Scruff

Active Member
Mar 11, 2010
104
0
Right, so i gave this a go the other day. Buggered if i could get the damned thing out :( To be honest though there was hardly any gap on the air pump at all. Is there anything else it could be?

First question is how do i get the electrical connector off? Theres a gap at the back of the connector on the face where the wires go into it. Do i wedge a flat blade in there and give it a wiggle?

I'm gonna have another go next week anyway when i get a chance.
 
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