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what have you done to your car today ?
- Thread starter seatcupramad23
- Start date
At least that saves me ripping out the inside of the boot...
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Personally I'd get that bolt out and run a tap up the thread.
If I remember rightly the captive nut isn't accessible from the inside and the mounting plate is welded in from the inner arch side.
Bare in mind the shock is located in place by the top mount and you've got at least one good bolt left in there plus the weight of the car constantly against it.
If you can get another new bolt wound into the cleaned out thread it should be fine.
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If I remember rightly the captive nut isn't accessible from the inside and the mounting plate is welded in from the inner arch side.
Bare in mind the shock is located in place by the top mount and you've got at least one good bolt left in there plus the weight of the car constantly against it.
If you can get another new bolt wound into the cleaned out thread it should be fine.
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Bit of a relief to hear it’s not as bad as I was thinking. I’ve looked around the internet a bit and the internet people make it sound like a fairly easy and straightforward job, so fingers crossed.
What do you reckon, leave the top mount in so I can get it lined up a bit more, or take it all out?
Don't do what I did.
Changed the front shocks.
Then the blasted CV boot quit a month later.
Guess who hadn't clamped the shock to the knuckle properly?
Some monster potholes did the rest, tearing the metal tab & shoving the shock
through enough to shred the gaiter beneath.
Dime Bar!
“There’s the right way, the wrong way, and the Max Power way.” “What’s the Max Power way?” “The wrong way, but faster.”
If you’re going to put a hole in something, don’t half arse it like me and me putting a hole in my ball joint boot with the tuning fork tool - you’ve got to send it like Smutts.
I can’t even imagine what the aftermath of that involved.
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Be good for others if you’d written a guide - even on simple jobs
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lol.Be good for others if you’d written a guide - even on simple jobs
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1. Unclip gaitor
2. Spray everything.
3. Reclip gaitor.
Attachments
1 - Looking at the gear lever from behind, lovingly press the plastic base part forward, then lift.
2 - Lift the whole thing up to improve access (don't worry, the knob is fixed in place by a clip)
3 - There may be some foam there, pull it out, shouldn't be anything holding it in place
4 - Get the lube and spray the mechanism like you're on the top of the podium (anything you need access to shy of the actual rod ends is accessible, and even then a little ingenuity will get them too)
5 - If you want to do any adjustments like realigning etc, this is your chance
6 - In true Haynes style, refitting is the reverse
2 - Lift the whole thing up to improve access (don't worry, the knob is fixed in place by a clip)
3 - There may be some foam there, pull it out, shouldn't be anything holding it in place
4 - Get the lube and spray the mechanism like you're on the top of the podium (anything you need access to shy of the actual rod ends is accessible, and even then a little ingenuity will get them too)
5 - If you want to do any adjustments like realigning etc, this is your chance
6 - In true Haynes style, refitting is the reverse
No. You can see which parts in particular need greasing if you move the stick and see how it works. There's the plastic ball, but also a balljoint to the left that needs a good squirt.
the linkage under the bonnet can get stiff that's worth looking at and removing too clean up and regrease if hard changing comes back
I've got a can of lithium grease that's begging to be used, so I'll be doing that this weekend.
Probably just did something very stupid - walked past my local petrol station and they had diesel, so jumped in the car and drove up there, even though there's only one bolt in the rear shock. It started coming loose after about five minutes and was making a hell of a noise, but I have diesel now at least. It wasn't torqued, so that's probably the reason it undid itself, and it does do up tight, so I think I just made it and haven't damaged the threads.
Of course, I found that my tap and die set wasn't at the girlfriend's house, but was at my house the whole time, so I could have cleaned the thread earlier in the week. I'm going to sort that tomorrow, but today I cleaned up the threads on the bolt that has damaged threads so I can get a feel for how the tool works. I'm hoping I can get the tool in OK with the space I've got in the wheel arch, but there's always an adjustable spanner I suppose if I haven't.
Probably just did something very stupid - walked past my local petrol station and they had diesel, so jumped in the car and drove up there, even though there's only one bolt in the rear shock. It started coming loose after about five minutes and was making a hell of a noise, but I have diesel now at least. It wasn't torqued, so that's probably the reason it undid itself, and it does do up tight, so I think I just made it and haven't damaged the threads.
Of course, I found that my tap and die set wasn't at the girlfriend's house, but was at my house the whole time, so I could have cleaned the thread earlier in the week. I'm going to sort that tomorrow, but today I cleaned up the threads on the bolt that has damaged threads so I can get a feel for how the tool works. I'm hoping I can get the tool in OK with the space I've got in the wheel arch, but there's always an adjustable spanner I suppose if I haven't.
I am ridiculously happy right now.
Happy and relieved.
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Happy and relieved.
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Manic172
https://m.facebook.com/ManicMotorsport1
I've got a clutch and DMF under my bed if that counts?
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I seem to have parts in my living room on a regular basis.
Right. Ow a manifold and a shock.
Manic172
https://m.facebook.com/ManicMotorsport1
It’s a second hand pro4.
Not sure if I’ll put it on.
Would rather have better.
That’s why it’s been sitting here for about 2 months
Badger5 Custom Map + TIP,
3”Custom exhaust, FMIC, Bosh 550’s, BC Coilovers, ARB’s +loads more.
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