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what have you done to your car today ?

Brown trouser moment today. Turned out of my road and gave it some gas to get through the traffic lights, and it just stalled. Had no idea what was going on, but ended up coasting through the lights, and trying not to block the road. 'Oh crap' goes through my head - I've never actually broken down before and I don't really know what to do.

Managed to turn it over again - stupidly left the lights on, which didn't help - but just worried what it might be. I think it cut out under medium to heavy throttle. Battery probably isn't in the best condition anymore.

I'm just thinking now - little bit of wheel spin when I pulled out of my road - is it possible the traction control kicked in and because the engine was cold it just died?


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iammooks said:
Brown trouser moment today. Turned out of my road and gave it some gas to get through the traffic lights, and it just stalled. Had no idea what was going on, but ended up coasting through the lights, and trying not to block the road. 'Oh crap' goes through my head - I've never actually broken down before and I don't really know what to do.

Managed to turn it over again - stupidly left the lights on, which didn't help - but just worried what it might be. I think it cut out under medium to heavy throttle. Battery probably isn't in the best condition anymore.

I'm just thinking now - little bit of wheel spin when I pulled out of my road - is it possible the traction control kicked in and because the engine was cold it just died?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Not many things that can cause it just to die like that.

Crank position sensor would be the most likely, as that is the only sensor that could stop it running. The ecu will just take a best guess if any other sensors fail.

The fuel pump/fuel pump relay.

Cambelt would be another one, but as long as it's been changed on schedule then that's extremely unlikely.

Other random stuff like ECU faults or battery/ground cable issues.

Can't think of much else
 
iammooks said:
Brown trouser moment today. Turned out of my road and gave it some gas to get through the traffic lights, and it just stalled. Had no idea what was going on, but ended up coasting through the lights, and trying not to block the road. 'Oh crap' goes through my head - I've never actually broken down before and I don't really know what to do.

Managed to turn it over again - stupidly left the lights on, which didn't help - but just worried what it might be. I think it cut out under medium to heavy throttle. Battery probably isn't in the best condition anymore.

I'm just thinking now - little bit of wheel spin when I pulled out of my road - is it possible the traction control kicked in and because the engine was cold it just died?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
if your battery is that bad your alternator is working its tits off too keep it above recommend volts even though you still think the battery is good at startup, its cheaper to swap battery than alternator , did you figure out the stall ?
 
Alexis27 said:
Check for codes. Could just be a sensor
Click to expand...

mty12345 said:
Not many things that can cause it just to die like that.

Crank position sensor would be the most likely, as that is the only sensor that could stop it running. The ecu will just take a best guess if any other sensors fail.

The fuel pump/fuel pump relay.

Cambelt would be another one, but as long as it's been changed on schedule then that's extremely unlikely.

Other random stuff like ECU faults or battery/ground cable issues.

Can't think of much else
Click to expand...

Nam-uk said:
if your battery is that bad your alternator is working its tits off too keep it above recommend volts even though you still think the battery is good at startup, its cheaper to swap battery than alternator , did you figure out the stall ?
Click to expand...

Took the car out yesterday and everything seemed OK. It turned over fine with no labouring and I didn't notice any drop in revs or power and I was driving in a mix of 20/30/40/60mph areas, so had a chance to give it a fistful of beans every now and then too.

In the past when the car's cold, I have noticed that the revs do fluctuate a bit at idle when I'm at a standstill, so there could be a little bit of a fuel issue - or maybe that's just the car doing what it's supposed to do - but no loss of power or stalling.

I'm starting to think when I drove it the other day it was just all a bit much for it - a mix of not driving it for a week or so, cold start, lights on, hard acceleration not long after starting the car, wheel spin coming out of a side road into traffic, TCS kicked in and dropped the engine revs and that's what made it stall - a perfect storm of three or four things happening all at once that feels a bit catastrophic, but is nearly impossible to recreate under normal driving conditions.

Just to be sure, I'll do a longish drive to make sure the battery gets a bit more charge in it and hope that solves it - or at least gives me peace of mind that it isn't happening again.

I mean, it's an old car - weird things are bound to happen from time to time.

Still love it though - especially since putting in the rear ARB. It just grips and never lets go.


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iammooks said:
Took the car out yesterday and everything seemed OK. It turned over fine with no labouring and I didn't notice any drop in revs or power and I was driving in a mix of 20/30/40/60mph areas, so had a chance to give it a fistful of beans every now and then too.

In the past when the car's cold, I have noticed that the revs do fluctuate a bit at idle when I'm at a standstill, so there could be a little bit of a fuel issue - or maybe that's just the car doing what it's supposed to do - but no loss of power or stalling.

I'm starting to think when I drove it the other day it was just all a bit much for it - a mix of not driving it for a week or so, cold start, lights on, hard acceleration not long after starting the car, wheel spin coming out of a side road into traffic, TCS kicked in and dropped the engine revs and that's what made it stall - a perfect storm of three or four things happening all at once that feels a bit catastrophic, but is nearly impossible to recreate under normal driving conditions.

Just to be sure, I'll do a longish drive to make sure the battery gets a bit more charge in it and hope that solves it - or at least gives me peace of mind that it isn't happening again.

I mean, it's an old car - weird things are bound to happen from time to time.

Still love it though - especially since putting in the rear ARB. It just grips and never lets go.


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I was getting lumpy idle at cold now and again and fine when warm, but then it happened all the time so i tried the Hydra fuel additives i posted on here (above) and since then I've had no issue, put it down to supermarket fuel witch has less additive then premium fuel that has better additives i also reckon the map i have but was never told at the time when was mapped if to use a high Ron fuel, also less smoke so defiantly burns better or down too the injectors cleaned out or both, even so id defiantly give that gear a try its better than eco max that's for sure and it dilutes allot less after the first does, i just did a few big doses then minimum lol, also i never have TCS on all that does is drop power its a pain, even off its on but worse case like black ice on the road, i never hard boot car on cold only when upto temp.
 
Last edited:
Nam-uk said:
I was getting lumpy idle at cold now and again and fine when warm, but then it happened all the time so i tried the Hydra fuel additives i posted on here (above) and since then I've had no issue, put it down to supermarket fuel witch has less additive then premium fuel that has better additives i also reckon the map i have but was never told at the time when was mapped if to use a high Ron fuel, also less smoke so defiantly burns better or down too the injectors cleaned out or both, even so id defiantly give that gear a try its better than eco max that's for sure and it dilutes allot less after the first does, i just did a few big doses then minimum lol, also i never have TCS on all that does is drop power its a pain, even off its on but worse case like black ice on the road, i never hard boot car on cold only when upto temp.
Click to expand...
1.8T should be run on 98 octane even as standard. 95 won't damage it, but you will lose power for sure. With a remap is definitely in need of 99ron
 
mty12345 said:
1.8T should be run on 98 octane even as standard. 95 won't damage it, but you will lose power for sure. With a remap is definitely in need of 99ron
Click to expand...
never thought on the pd150 it would be that relevant never did see or here anyone using high octane fuel on standard, but then i thought about the map it has tobe related as its night and day difference on performance, when looking at maps all the way up to revo i never did see recommend high octane bet its the case with never engines though
 
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Put my number 1 Cupra R up for sale today :( She cleans up nice, now wondering what I'm doing but she's gotta go (Number 2 Cupra R has emptied the coffers!)....
1667570964092.png


I'll drop the advert in the For Sale section and no I'm not breaking it :whistle:
 
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vwtrev said:
Put my number 1 Cupra R up for sale today :( She cleans up nice, now wondering what I'm doing but she's gotta go (Number 2 Cupra R has emptied the coffers!)....View attachment 34331

I'll drop the advert in the For Sale section and no I'm not breaking it :whistle:
Click to expand...
Good luck with the sale! Looks like money has been spent in the right places and new owner will get a well maintained car.
 
Nam-uk said:
never thought on the pd150 it would be that relevant never did see or here anyone using high octane fuel on standard, but then i thought about the map it has tobe related as its night and day difference on performance, when looking at maps all the way up to revo i never did see recommend high octane bet its the case with never engines though
Click to expand...
Sorry mate, we were talking at cross purposes here. Because you mentioned RON i assumed we were talking about petrol engines, I didn't realise you were talking about a diesel. Diesel fuel doesn't have an octane rating or a RON, it is measured in CT (cetane) and it's vastly different to petrol engines. The Pd diesel models will run on any diesel fuel and i doubt you would see any benefit at all from a premium diesel in terms of performance, even when mapped
 
mty12345 said:
Sorry mate, we were talking at cross purposes here. Because you mentioned RON i assumed we were talking about petrol engines, I didn't realise you were talking about a diesel. Diesel fuel doesn't have an octane rating or a RON, it is measured in CT (cetane) and it's vastly different to petrol engines. The Pd diesel models will run on any diesel fuel and i doubt you would see any benefit at all from a premium diesel in terms of performance, even when mapped
Click to expand...
no worry's its not the first time its happened, think its down too the additive diesel as its cleared the issues and running allot better using Hydra, had no issues with shell or bp, but i go were its cheapest and use additive when needed
 
noticed the main undertray was hanging down it was fixed back when i first got car, it looked like a screw was missing, turned out 3 were and clips rotted and parts of undertray were ripped and the cambelt side cover clip ripped off, new clips and pan heads,repair undertray with tie raps and 2 new m6 teck screws and front with washers , looks and feels solid well lying on the floor using a jack it does lol
 
mty12345 said:
Diesel fuel doesn't have an octane rating or a RON, it is measured in CT (cetane) and it's vastly different to petrol engines. The Pd diesel models will run on any diesel fuel and i doubt you would see any benefit at all from a premium diesel in terms of performance, even when mapped
Click to expand...

This is true. There's been tests done and whilst petrol can be different (RON, additives etc), diesel is diesel, there's no difference aside from additives they add for cleaning
 
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