what have you done to your car today ?

[MoToJoJo]

Little tip for removing the plastic glass retaining bit, because sometimes it can be... resistant to being pulled out. I've even flexed the entire panel doing it.

You can use an extension bar or similar across the opening to get some leverage on the pliers when pulling the screw out.

Oh, for putting it back in, yup, nervous times ?. Think I put the panel on, put the glass in, stuck my hand behind whole thing (there's just enough room), and pressed the plastic in.

As for the retaining ring, looks seized to me. Shouldn't be difficult to get them to move so if it's resisting or just not moving then it's done for (my nsf door has a bit of damage after having to smash one to bits to get it out it was so seized)

 

[iammooks]

Little tip for removing the plastic glass retaining bit, because sometimes it can be... resistant to being pulled out. I've even flexed the entire panel doing it.

You can use an extension bar or similar across the opening to get some leverage on the pliers when pulling the screw out.

Oh, for putting it back in, yup, nervous times . Think I put the panel on, put the glass in, stuck my hand behind whole thing (there's just enough room), and pressed the plastic in.

As for the retaining ring, looks seized to me. Shouldn't be difficult to get them to move so if it's resisting or just not moving then it's done for (my nsf door has a bit of damage after having to smash one to bits to get it out it was so seized)

It looks so straightforward on the part that's out of the car - but trying to get the flange of that screw back into the retaining ring is a nightmare when it's on the car and all you've got is two holes to try to tease it back into place. Resigning myself to having to take it all out when I've got my parents' driveway at Christmas.

I've not got the patience or the head space today.

Especially given that my nearside rear lock is giving up too. I could open it from the inside yesterday, but today the inside didn't want to work either. Managed to get it open and have taken the door card off too in preparation. Moved the door strike slightly outwards too so I've got more room if I need to do anything destructive in future. Sprayed penetrating lube on the latch and worked it a bit and it now seems a little healthier.

This rain is killing the car at the moment - I just can't keep up.


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[g60stu]

My a/c got gassed last week and I put the car back together. All good. Went for first test drive yesterday and all good. Today I popped out and the car cut out at the traffic lights. Eventually it restarted, but I seem to have the classic EPC light on problem with the car hitting a wall if I rev it above 4k rpm.
a quick scan shows:


3 Faults Found:

16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61)

P0328 - 35-10 - Signal too High - Intermittent

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30

P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent

16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)

P0322 - 35-00 - No Signal

Readiness: 0010 0000

Guessing I should replace the crank sensor? I’m feeling slightly sickened given I had the whole front end off the car last week.

 

[Nam-uk]

Iammooks There's an interesting series of videos on YT by a Spanish guy JRB motors where he renovates an TDI Leon and part 10 covers cleaning and rebuilding the door locks. Towards the end he redoes the window glass so you may find it interesting.
The auto-translate on YT for subtitles into English is so useful ?

I've done that with all my locks i replaced now there spares the old grease goes hard i recon that's why the motor burnsout and i wouldn't use that white grease as that can go hard over time , even used one this year due to the same issue on drivers door puddle switch again, thing is that micro switch you have to stick to the spec that come with the lock as there is two types , also the motor can be a pain too strip and when you do you can clean all that carbon off but if you have big wear on the bushes or even wire as some act as a bush they wont last, the motor alone with that attached gear is half the price of a aftermarket lock so you may as well get the after market and use the rest as spares buts that better than paying VW lock tax and last time i looked they were around £270, looks a good series though its worth a watch def need subtitles he speaks too dam fast lol

 

[iammooks]

Sucks not having a driveway or a garage for this - the lock I swapped the other day looks like it just needs a good clean and some lube in the right places, but I can't leave my car on the street with the doors unlocked. I was lucky that I had the spare for the driver's side that I could just plug straight in - glad it actually worked though as there's no way really of testing it - especially when I'm the one who repaired it...

The passenger side is another story really - I can tell that the motor is on its way out, so I've made sure I got the door card off so I can activate the rod for the lock if the key fob doesn't unlock it. Still seems to work because of that. If I had a garage or a driveway, I could repair it and then put it back in easily enough. It's going to have to be a new one for the time being.


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[Alexis27]

I thought the general problem with the locks was that the solder cracked on the boards

 

[iammooks]

I thought the general problem with the locks was that the solder cracked on the boards

I bought a new door from Thai because a paint shop had broken the regulator and guides and so it was cheaper just to buy a replacement. Stripped my old door where the microswitch wasn't working and separated the parts and re-soldered everything before putting it back together. The new-old door's interior handle wasn't working, so I swapped them out while I was in there over the weekend and it's all working fine now.

It could have been the soldering, or cleaning the microswitch (they all get really grubby) or something else entirely, but it works, so I'm not complaining.

The other side is having trouble unlocking. For about the past three years the lock has squeaked every time I've locked or unlocked it, and I've noticed there's a bit of corrosion on the latch, so I'll be making sure it's all aligned properly once I've replaced that lock. It sounds like the motor isn't working there, but I'll strip it and see how it looks once it's out. It's not an OEM lock so I won't lose much sleep if I can't fix it. It's easier with the mechanical parts, as I can't really test the electrical parts to see if they work unless it's installed in the car.

Front or rear though, it's much less stressful if you take your time and strip the door properly.

Now to repair both sides and find the water is actually coming through the loom under the scuttle...


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[Manic172]

More post from pro race engineering

 

[iammooks]

More post from pro race engineering

I'm going to embarrass myself here and say clutch, which probably shows how boring my car part purchases are if those are the kinds of boxes I'm getting things in.


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[paradyne]

Fitted a new pair of gas struts for the boot hatch and it's made it a lot more controlled when closing, far less of an uncontrolled slam.

 

[g60stu]

Fitted a new pair of gas struts for the boot hatch and it's made it a lot more controlled when closing, far less of an uncontrolled slam.

Where did you buy them from? I was looking last year but wasn’t sure who sold them.

 

[iammooks]

Struts are a bit of a lottery - I replaced mine a couple of years ago and bought a set from eBay, going with the 'not quite the cheapest' option. They work fine, but when you open the boot fully, they kind of shudder at the top of their travel and make a noise like there's no bump stop at the end of the strut. I thought after they lost a little gas, they'd be less harsh, but that's not happened. It might not be an issue for other people, but it does bother me.


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[paradyne]

The struts were from eBay - item number 174821335494

I agree with Iammooks in that they do open quite forcefully at the top of travel, though to be honest I find that less of a problem than the way the originals were not damping when closing. As I'm typing I'm wondering if I should try one old/one new to see if that is a better balance?!

 

[iammooks]

The struts were from eBay - item number 174821335494

I agree with Iammooks in that they do open quite forcefully at the top of travel, though to be honest I find that less of a problem than the way the originals were not damping when closing. As I'm typing I'm wondering if I should try one old/one new to see if that is a better balance?!

I kept my old ones for exactly that reason - although I forgot about that and binned them literally last weekend.

Just back in from putting a new lock in my nearside rear door. Even with the wrecking job the garage that replaced it last did, it only took a couple of hours. The hardest bit was getting the lock and the locking arm in properly - the garage had broken the plastic piece that holds everything in place on the door skin, so it wasn't as straightforward, as the locking arm kept coming out.

Free peg and dowel though - that's been in there since 2015 probably.

As to what killed the lock, I'm guessing water ingress. The connector was literally wet and the lock plate where it bolts to the door was totally corroded around the latch.

It's done now though, so I can forget about it for a few years. Made sure to grease the lock a bit before putting it in and fix the handle spring while I was in there.


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[Alexis27]

Interesting that R-Tech say that E10 petrol will actively damage the injectors on these engines.

 

[Nam-uk]

View attachment 39390

Interesting that R-Tech say that E10 petrol will actively damage the injectors on these engines.

What’s that ? You getting your injection cleaned out?

 

[Alexis27]

No, it was just on the R-Tech Facebook page

 

[iammooks]

While the seals and putting my spare lock in seems to have worked - and the microswitch seems OK now after a clean, the last part of the puzzle is getting the lock cover back in.

Using the old door parts as a guide, I can work out how it tightens it up, but I've tried a few combinations of backing it out and screwing it in, but the lock cover just pulls straight out.

Any tips? Is it buggered? Have I backed it out too much? I've never had issues with the others, so is the part knackered?


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Took the door apart again today while I wait for the eBay seller for the other lock to get back to me.

I think I know why the handle bit wasn't tightening back up now...

The ring must have seized solid and then popped off when I tried loosening it. Luckily I had the spare that I'd taken apart and cleaned and greased to pop straight back in.

Ruined the perfect butyl tape job I did when I sorted the seals, but it'll work fine and it'll be hidden under the door card anyway.


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[Alexis27]

Looks like it's been on the Titanic

 

[iammooks]

Looks like it's been on the Titanic

Makes me laugh to think I was randomly fishing about with a pick through the lock to try and pull things back into place. There's no way that was going to work...