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100% this. Don't mess around with brakes if you are unsure, they literally save your life.

I have done the brake fluid on my MK3 for the first time not too long ago, but I bought a pressure bleeder and I have built up quite some experience over the years. Without the pressure bleeder, I would not have done it. For me this is the correct way of doing brake fluid changes

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Hi photoNL..

crikey- that looks pretty serious! (sure you haven't mixed up a photo of your new Amazon enema machine-?)

Very grateful for the brake information chaps. Ive been very mindful about these two 'incidents' but still unsure I hadn't pressed the clutch slightly along with the brake, or some such tiny error, I've monitored the brakes since I posted a month ago.

Nothing at all similar since. It's fairly brake-heavy being hilly out here, so I'm confident about them as they are, despite this query. They feel good. I will check with my garage at my MOT in a month though.

It does look like a job I'd be willing to do, making sure no air is introduced at all. I think I know the steps & the important aspects to get correct, from looking at the bleeding & refilling procedure. Ideally if I could hire out an 'enema machine' & do it.. the cost of buying one would surely be ~similar to getting a grg to do it, once that is.

Gratefully Zoot
 
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If I may ask a separate general question. The rev counter..

What do folks drive a their 'top' rev point? I think I mentioned my inability to really understand why I even have a rev counter (I think the general consensus was that it was somewhat of a gimmick). But that said, in this car that I push reasonably hard in 2nd & especially 3rd out here on my hugely fun welsh B roads.. I'd say I still don't go above 3,500rpm. Ever. Which is a long way from the red band.

So am I driving my FR 150hp 'too conservatively' ?

I don't know if anyone knows the YouTube car channel chap called Number 27, but he quite often tests older cars of not dissimilar power & age, & I notice him really going through the gears touching the red band. And being willing donated cars for him to try, the owners knowing & seemingly happy for their car to be driven like so.

Thanks. Zoot
 
"Italian tune-up" every now and then is good for the car :cool:


[edit]
Haha I know, the device looks pretty serious and it works well. For newer cars, the procedure usually involves pressure bleeding it instead of the oldskool pump with your foot method (although it can still be effective!)

See below according to the workspace manual

Screenshot 2026-09-29 at 15.40.40.png
 
It really depends on what is happening at the time.
A few guidelines I use are
Overtaking someone/joining a faster road etc I am revving it out to get to speed safely. Don't change gear whilst overtaking unless you are hitting the red line.
I try and let the car get to temperature before revving it hard unless I have absolutely no choice.
On average its about 2k rpm day to day
 
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If I may ask a separate general question. The rev counter..

What do folks drive a their 'top' rev point? I think I mentioned my inability to really understand why I even have a rev counter (I think the general consensus was that it was somewhat of a gimmick). But that said, in this car that I push reasonably hard in 2nd & especially 3rd out here on my hugely fun welsh B roads.. I'd say I still don't go above 3,500rpm. Ever. Which is a long way from the red band.

So am I driving my FR 150hp 'too conservatively' ?

I don't know if anyone knows the YouTube car channel chap called Number 27, but he quite often tests older cars of not dissimilar power & age, & I notice him really going through the gears touching the red band. And being willing donated cars for him to try, the owners knowing & seemingly happy for their car to be driven like so.

Thanks. Zoot
I always thought that provided the oil is up to temp, no harm going into high revs just as long as you aren't going near the redline for sustained periods unless I am misinformed? My DSG certainly likes going near the redline when every time I put it into 'S' mode.
 
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If I may ask a separate general question. The rev counter..

What do folks drive a their 'top' rev point? I think I mentioned my inability to really understand why I even have a rev counter (I think the general consensus was that it was somewhat of a gimmick). But that said, in this car that I push reasonably hard in 2nd & especially 3rd out here on my hugely fun welsh B roads.. I'd say I still don't go above 3,500rpm. Ever. Which is a long way from the red band.

So am I driving my FR 150hp 'too conservatively' ?

I don't know if anyone knows the YouTube car channel chap called Number 27, but he quite often tests older cars of not dissimilar power & age, & I notice him really going through the gears touching the red band. And being willing donated cars for him to try, the owners knowing & seemingly happy for their car to be driven like so.

Thanks. Zoot
Just to add - If I am reading the graph correctly, your engine should be outputting its max 150hp between 4500-6000rpm.. so by staying under 3500rpm you're not using the engine's full potential.


1792141927321.png
 
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Hi again chaps, yet another newbie Q (I'm approaching the 1 year ownership mark)..

I have had a "Oil change due in 28 days" notification on my dash, started about 10 days ago. My MOT is due just beforehand: is this relevant to the MOT & is it a warning, or just a general recommendation?

Incidentally, how many of you do this oil change job yourselves?

Thanks, Zoot
 
Hi again chaps, yet another newbie Q (I'm approaching the 1 year ownership mark)..

I have had a "Oil change due in 28 days" notification on my dash, started about 10 days ago. My MOT is due just beforehand: is this relevant to the MOT & is it a warning, or just a general recommendation?

Incidentally, how many of you do this oil change job yourselves?

Thanks, Zoot
It's based on mileage/time and is a recommendation. It does not mean anything is wrong with the car.
 
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But, as time goes on, the condition of the oil could influence the emissions levels at the exhaust tail pipe.

It just makes good sense to make sure that your car is serviced at the correct periods in time, also a proper service - and not just a quick engine oil change, which is probably how too many DIYers see this task - will also check over other aspects of the car's roadworthiness - and so increase the chances of the MOT resulting in a "clean" pass.
 
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Just perform it every year, please don't follow the Longlife intervals (if it exists for your engine), as it is known these cause issues down the line. New oil loses its protective capabilities quite fast, just by being used.

It's not relevant to the MOT, but it might be a good reminder to do the oil change every year you go for the MOT.

If you want to go down the oil rabbit hole, watch some of these guy's videos: https://www.youtube.com/@themotoroilgeek
 
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But, as time goes on, the condition of the oil could influence the emissions levels at the exhaust tail pipe.

It just makes good sense to make sure that your car is serviced at the correct periods in time, also a proper service - and not just a quick engine oil change, which is probably how too many DIYers see this task - will also check over other aspects of the car's roadworthiness - and so increase the chances of the MOT resulting in a "clean" pass.
Good points.

Yup understood.. but I am on a budget, & would honestly like to try my hand at doing the oil change/ oil filter/ & the other ones too that are more accessible. I'm sort of getting slowly prepped to do it end November. It's really something I feel I should be doing at my stage now.

Thanks Zoot
 
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Fair play for wanting to complete the services yourself, as RUM4MO said alot of people rush it so make sure you have everything you need and take your time. Did you replace the brake fluid yourself? How did you find it?
 
Just perform it every year, please don't follow the Longlife intervals (if it exists for your engine), as it is known these cause issues down the line. New oil loses its protective capabilities quite fast, just by being used.

It's not relevant to the MOT, but it might be a good reminder to do the oil change every year you go for the MOT.

If you want to go down the oil rabbit hole, watch some of these guy's videos: https://www.youtube.com/@themotoroilgeek
Every year..? well this is SO different to my 1.4 petrol mk4 golf! I had for 12 yrs & never changed oil once! Engine didn't give out.. back axle failure RIO'd it, @120k miles.

Whole different ball game this diesel 'golf mk7' engine oil change yearly then. Hence why I want to get to grips with an oil change myself.

nd.. do you do the oil change job yourself on your Leon?

Zoot
 
Good points.

Yup understood.. but I am on a budget, & would honestly like to try my hand at doing the oil change/ oil filter/ & the other ones too that are more accessible. I'm sort of getting slowly prepped to do it end November. It's really something I feel I should be doing at my stage now.

Thanks Zoot
The TDI oil filter is a bit of a pain - quite high up on the front of the engine.
I recommend using some good ramps to get the front of the car safely high enough to get under there and remove the undertray.
You'll need a 13mm 6 sided socket to undo the filter drain. Don't use a 12 sided as its a small weak plastic screw and you can round it off - speaking from experience!:mad:
You'll also need a large socket for the main filter housing, 32mm from memory, and a couple of extensions. Be prepared to get oil down your arm :LOL:
 
Fair play for wanting to complete the services yourself, as RUM4MO said alot of people rush it so make sure you have everything you need and take your time. Did you replace the brake fluid yourself? How did you find it?
Unfortunately this year it was time to replace the brake fluid on 3 local family cars. Gunson's Easibleeder worked faultlessly when used on older daughter's 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra, failed to seal properly on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI - okay access to that Polo's brake reservoir is "tight" - first thing I noticed was the garage floor changed colour when wetted with brake fluid - oh bother, a quick "nip up" using a large pair of water pump pliers sorted that out, for my 2011 Audi S4, I prepared the same Gunson's Esibleeder reservoir cap/sealing washer but applying a quick "brush" of red rubber grease - that along with the better access to that car's fluid reservoir worked. Maybe time to try to retire this Gunson's Easibleeder as the cap seal for VW Group cars is stretching/degrading! I'm sure that Gunson's used to sell spare cap seals but possibly not now.

Edit:- out of interest, how are people disposing of the old brake fluid?

I've tended to buy a pack of sawdust/wood shavings and use that to absorb the old fluid, then double bag it and put it in the general waste bin at home.
 
Every year..? well this is SO different to my 1.4 petrol mk4 golf! I had for 12 yrs & never changed oil once! Engine didn't give out.. back axle failure RIO'd it, @120k miles.

Whole different ball game this diesel 'golf mk7' engine oil change yearly then. Hence why I want to get to grips with an oil change myself.

nd.. do you do the oil change job yourself on your Leon?

Zoot
Yes I do, I learned that quite fast when I got into cars (via a buddy of mine) and the most important tip I can give you: SAFETY FIRST!

I cannot state this enough, as I almost got crushed by my Mercedes CLS when it slipped of the floorjack (that was my mistake, as I jacked it up from the subframe). I invested in a midrise scissor lift shortly after, im never going back to jackstands as you can imagine.

But in general, oil service is easy and will save you a ton of money as you can buy parts + oil yourself.

You might've gotten away with the Golf 1.4 maintenance, but modern engines are way more complex and have a lot of dependencies on oil pressure. Failing to service your oil will block these important oil passageways with all kinds of weird behaviour as a result. The most important maintenance is your (yearly) oil service, the lifeline of your engine.


What will happen inside your engine if you don't change your oil

cq0vsgP.jpg
 
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For wheels on work like oil and filter, just get ramps. Or make safe ones.
For the oil filter on the tdi, get loads of Brake and Parts cleaner to spray everywhere.