Newbie- basic Q's on me new motor!

[Zoot]

Like DaveS I didn't find a difference in economy but the throttle response was awful in eco mode so I just used mine in normal. Steering was a bit heavier in sport but it felt unnatural to me.

The other thing to consider is that the car resets the engine back to normal regardless of what mode you are in when you start up so you could have sport steering and lighting but normal engine response.

Hi DanM,

Ah I didn't know it reset itself to Normal. That might explain why I can't tell a difference.

Ok knowing this now, I'll do a proper test then between them. I could've sworn I have prefered it in Normal though.. so maybe this -is- feasable after what Dave S says.

I haven't bothered with Eco or Individual.

Thanks, Zoot

 

[Zoot]

Ooh another minor question since I'm here/ remembered to ask..

Cosmetic thing: I notice my large black plastic trim area around/ below my rear reg plate (& my back screen wiper too) are going a dull grey. Looks dated, against the rest of the bodywork which looks remarkably kinda 'still new'.

Any cheap/ quick fix ideas?

Thanks, Zoot

 

[serdar_18fr]

My previous car was a '18 Leon FR manual with a 1.4/125hp engine. In the 3.5 years I had it, I believe I never tried Eco, not even out of curiosity. The main difference between Normal and Sport was in the throttle response. In Sport, throttle was more quick to respond when pushed or lifted off and it was clearly noticeable to me. If I was caught in stop-go traffic in Sport mode, I had to switch to Normal because movements would become jerky due to oversensitivity of the throttle. Also the power of electrohydraulic steering assistance is lower in Sport mode so it becomes noticeably heavier. Normal was too light for my taste, so I was using it mostly in Sport.

 

[nd-photo.nl]

Ooh another minor question since I'm here/ remembered to ask..

Cosmetic thing: I notice my large black plastic trim area around/ below my rear reg plate (& my back screen wiper too) are going a dull grey. Looks dated, against the rest of the bodywork which looks remarkably kinda 'still new'.

Any cheap/ quick fix ideas?

Thanks, Zoot

There are multiple things you can try, like ceramic coating & products like this:

Sonax - Plastic Restorer - Black

Sonax - Plastic Restorer - Black Sonax Plastic Restorer Black is a highly adhesive, water-based rejuvenator, perfect for breathing new life into faded black plastic trims. This easy-to-use product comes with a built-in applicator meaning no mess and no additional applicators are needed. Using

www.cleanyourcar.co.uk

 

[Zoot]

There are multiple things you can try, like ceramic coating & products like this:

Sonax - Plastic Restorer - Black

Sonax - Plastic Restorer - Black Sonax Plastic Restorer Black is a highly adhesive, water-based rejuvenator, perfect for breathing new life into faded black plastic trims. This easy-to-use product comes with a built-in applicator meaning no mess and no additional applicators are needed. Using

www.cleanyourcar.co.uk

Hi nd..

Thanks for that. Eek.. a spray, lordy I'd be paranoid about getting it on my red bodywork.

I was wondering if there's any rubby-in-with-cloth stuff anyone uses. Like a cream stuff. I even wondered if my McGuiars G1721eu Ultimate Restorer (american cream stuff below, bodywork buff up stuff) might work. I'll trawl replies to see if anyone's used it on plastic trim.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-G17216EU-Ultimate-Compound-Restorer/dp/B002KKCLO6

 

[nd-photo.nl]

I have been using the Sonnax product and applied it to some interior plastic trim in my girlfriends car. It was also a dull grey and this restored it pretty good. I applied it once and its still going strong for a couple months already.

Its not a spray btw, but it has a built-in foam pad for application (push and the liquid fills the foam pad)

 

[Zoot]

I have been using the Sonnax product and applied it to some interior plastic trim in my girlfriends car. It was also a dull grey and this restored it pretty good. I applied it once and its still going strong for a couple months already.

Its not a spray btw, but it has a built-in foam pad for application (push and the liquid fills the foam pad)

Ah sorry nd.. great ok then that sounds like the stuff then for me.

Btw I've got a small sticker on my window 'Williams Ceramic Coating', just 2p sized, blue. Obviously prior owner did something or other, I wonder if anyone's heard of this?

Kinda going early doors paranoid about my nice rich red body colour, going faded pink in 3 years time! Think Ive even dreamt it had, woke up relieved it was only a dream!

Thanks, Zoot

 

[Zoot]

Car in the garage. Utter ballache.

Same warning lamp today again (yellow engine management symbol), like before IE about 5 mins after I started car from cold. Power suddenly diminished like before. Felt no turbo working. But this time, panic, as I'd just overtaken a truck & about to ascend a 3m notoriously fast & twisty hill. I struggled up with no escape lane LHS, & the truck bearing down behind me. Awful. Happened at the worst place I could think of. Fish Hill A44.

I limped it up halfway, thankfully a country lane joined L, so I bailed out/ hazards on/ engine off.

Last time 16Feb, after limping it back to my house, I waited engine off for 5 mins, started car again/ no yellow warning light, & rest of the day fine. Up until today. So today again after 5 mins with my hazards on, I started engine up/ no warning light, so I got the car back down the hill 3m. Called AA. Towed it to garage.

I'm 100m away from my hime, 10m near where car bought from: so I thought best thing was get car back to them. The garage they use (VAG competent mechanics) will look at it 'some time next week' with a quote.

The AA chap diagnosed a P164B00 code, Oil Pressure Switch (possibly faulty). And said it needs an Oil Pressure Check done, which he can't do. The dealer once i got car to them a hour ago, said it might have 1 or 2 of these Switches (or sensors, I don't know) & if it has two, best to replace -both- not just one.

What a nightmare. I'm staying at my parent's place/ where AA came to. So have a place to stay, if no car for maybe a week. I The first time this happened was 4 days outside my warranty. So I'm stuffed there.

Thanks Zoot

 

[DanMCGARRETT]

Hey Zoot, definitely sounds like an absolute pain. Doing a cursory search online for the fault code brought this up. It is a VW T6 forum but same engine.

P164b00 fault code oil pressure malfunction.. Glow plug flashing.. start stop not working.. limited revs

Hi.. New to here Have a 2.0tdi Crafter 2018 new shape DAU engine with a trouble code P164B00 I see a few T6 owners have had same fault code and never said the Fix...?? We've checked oil pressure.. all good X2 oil switches & change oil with correct grade & genuine parts.. Any help will be...

www.t6forum.com

If you still really like the car and it was me I would consider investing in an aftermarket warranty so you could go to a local garage to you once its fixed.

 

[Zoot]

Hey Zoot, definitely sounds like an absolute pain. Doing a cursory search online for the fault code brought this up. It is a VW T6 forum but same engine.

P164b00 fault code oil pressure malfunction.. Glow plug flashing.. start stop not working.. limited revs

Hi.. New to here Have a 2.0tdi Crafter 2018 new shape DAU engine with a trouble code P164B00 I see a few T6 owners have had same fault code and never said the Fix...?? We've checked oil pressure.. all good X2 oil switches & change oil with correct grade & genuine parts.. Any help will be...

www.t6forum.com

If you still really like the car and it was me I would consider investing in an aftermarket warranty so you could go to a local garage to you once its fixed.

Thanks Dan, appreciate the link.

all this is of course way over my head. This link makes it possibly more complex, than both the AA man & the dealer, said it simply 'was':

"Possibly the Oil Pressure Switch" was the AA man's assessment. "Oil pressure test needed" he also said.

The dealer man said though..

"It's likely to be one or both Oil Pressure Switches" the dealer man said (this chap evidently -does- have some mechanic knowledge/ does some easier stuff like fitting bits etc). And "An oil pressure test isn't needed" he said.

When I asked why not, he replied that his garage's computer is more comprehensive than the AA man's. And therefore will provide more evidence of what is at fault, basically.

I have no idea if this dealer man is being honest, talking utter tosh: tbh no-one in my position as a simple car user, could know how to take such information.

So it sounds like I'm going to be paying £ hundreds, for a complete lottery-general-oil pressure area-guess "fix", which will just as likely not fix it. I have no idea. How can anyone in my position, know what to do with such complex car systems with parts we've never even heard of. "Glow plug" was someone's take, on what the manual says, was what the flashing symbol signified was at fault. The first thing the AA man said though was "It'll definitely not be the glow plug". And on the link, the words Glow Plug aren't even mentioned. mean how are we (normal car users) meant to navigate what to do here-?

Thanks. Zoot

 

[DanMCGARRETT]

If the dealer is using a VAG specialist then it is most likely that his computer is more advanced than the AA man's as the AA likely has a hand held device that has to connect to every brand of car.

To be fair most modern cars have a lot of complex systems with multiple parts. But thats why being a mechanic or vehicle technician can pay well.

I know its easy for me to say this but wait for the specialist to diagnose the fault and see what they say.

A quick look on google shows that both pressure switches are about £20 each and they are near the oil filter housing so it might not be as expensive as you think.

If it makes you feel better a friend of mine has a BMW 330D touring and 2 brake calipers need replacing at £700 each.

I would still get a quote for an extended warranty for the car.

 

[RUM4MO]

Is this part of the “bonus” of having adjustable engine oil pressure to reduce emissions?
The mention of “wet belt” even if it’s “only” for the oil pump, worries me.

 

[Zoot]

If the dealer is using a VAG specialist then it is most likely that his computer is more advanced than the AA man's as the AA likely has a hand held device that has to connect to every brand of car.

To be fair most modern cars have a lot of complex systems with multiple parts. But thats why being a mechanic or vehicle technician can pay well.

I know its easy for me to say this but wait for the specialist to diagnose the fault and see what they say.

A quick look on google shows that both pressure switches are about £20 each and they are near the oil filter housing so it might not be as expensive as you think.

If it makes you feel better a friend of mine has a BMW 330D touring and 2 brake calipers need replacing at £700 each.

I would still get a quote for an extended warranty for the car.

Hi again Dan,

thanks for that- somewhat reassuring. The dealer's a VAG specialist used car outfit, & head guy (who did put 3 new tyres on, & a new stop-start battery for the sale) said their garage they use, had an ex-VW mechanic: so perhaps it might be a decent place for it.

Tell me though. As I mentioned, the warning lamp went on/ power diminished/ crawled up hill/ just to safe spot/ turned car off. Left it 5 mins, started/ thankfully then no warning lamp evident/ drove the 3m "home" ok.

So during this short 3m stint, then once back "home" here when of course I turned car off, & up until the AA guy came 1 hour later too, the car was -not- showing the warning lamp. I think he likely started the car, & no warning lamp was showing.

So how would the AA guy have found anything? He started it/ plugged his small ipad sized computer in pronto/ then detected the P164B00 error code ( I also saw "2" on his screen, maybe signifying twin oil pressure switches).

Does the computer read a 'very recent history' of any fault having been detected then or something? IE the car doesn't neccessarily need to be showing the warning lamp --at the precise point in time when he plugged his detection equipment in-- in order to establish a fault, which seemingly happened just for 10 minutes, 2 hours beforehand?

I'm just trying to understand how, say in 5 days time, when the car is driven all seemingly ok (as will likely be the case) to the garage from the dealer, say 2 miles or so.. then an hour later they hook their bigger computer up.. how they could detect this fault which occured almost a week earlier??

Sorry I can't explain what I'm asking any more concisely. If it's even understandable. Thanks, Zoot

 

[DanMCGARRETT]

There are usually 2 types of fault codes- historical and live. Historical are recorded in the car's ecu as happened but isn't currently a live fault per say whereas a live is a currently showing fault and is sometimes accompanied by a warning light. Modern cars have a computer that is almost like a simple black box which records everything - thats why alot of people stopped using tuning boxes on VAG cars when under warranty as it will flag up on the computer as a modification. Tuning boxes used to be quite popular for cars under warranty as they would add power and could be removed before a service whereas a remap cannot. Most code readers can read old and new fault codes.
Hope this makes sense.

 

[RUM4MO]

And also you can add into the mix that some faults will get removed from the associated controller after so many engine starts, so in some cases the historical fault logs also get cleared. There will be a priority listing that controls which can be cleared and which can not.

I first became aware of this when an AC compressor fault "vanished" when I handed my wife's 2015 VW Polo in for service, but I had saved a VCDS and printed out a fault log while some faults were still being held in memory, needless to say the main dealership service receptionist said that their master tech does not accept that as evidence, which is just being a bit silly as VCDS does tag scans with the vehicle's VIN mileage and date of when the scan was run.

 

[SuperV8]

Is this part of the “bonus” of having adjustable engine oil pressure to reduce emissions?
The mention of “wet belt” even if it’s “only” for the oil pump, worries me.

Yes, has a two stage oil pump.
To be fair, the belt in oil (BIO) belt for the oil pump seems very reliable (unlike the old hex shaft driven one in the old TDI's). I have seen videos of these being changed on high mileage engines and they still look good. They have quite an easy life driving an oil pump - vs much more strenuous CAM belt.
I'm going to change my BIO during my second cam belt change - just as a 'belt and braces' and as I also have a weep from my front crank seal - so 'while i'm in there'

 

[Zoot]

There are usually 2 types of fault codes- historical and live. Historical are recorded in the car's ecu as happened but isn't currently a live fault per say whereas a live is a currently showing fault and is sometimes accompanied by a warning light. Modern cars have a computer that is almost like a simple black box which records everything - thats why alot of people stopped using tuning boxes on VAG cars when under warranty as it will flag up on the computer as a modification. Tuning boxes used to be quite popular for cars under warranty as they would add power and could be removed before a service whereas a remap cannot. Most code readers can read old and new fault codes.
Hope this makes sense.

Hi Dan,

Aha ok understood- thanks for explaining. I was on the right path it seems re. some kind of 'historical' memorised situation.

So I guess it's a Q of how long this PB164B00 issue, shows up in the history. The dealer said I'm only likely to get a quote this week/ IE it may be the week after that it goes in (should I agree cost). And presumably only then, having their 'big computer' hooked up.

But I do have the AA chap's report (presumably the garage can view this- would anyone know?) of "Oil Pressure Switch Faulty Operation / PB164B00)".. "1) Oil pressure needs checked, 2) Possibly new oil pressure switch needed" which I noted down & relayed to the dealer.

I'm concerned that time will have elapsed, & a few normal starts with no warnings illuminated happened, before they fault-find with the bigge4 computer. And then if nothing shows up, the possibility of them saying "runs fine/ no fault detected/ so we can't do anything".

--

Anyway, the dealer chap said they'd look at the gear-transmission 1st/ backwards issue too, whilst there. But my alarm bells rang: I bet his clever thinking was we can get (me) to pay for an hour or two's labour (to look/ check/ tweak the linkages).. & bung an extra 2 hours onto the quote. So I'm emailing him today to say I specifically -don't- want the transmission issue done simultaneously.

Also making pertinent note to them of odometer reading I did: if you recall I wasn't happy on collection day, seeing 150m put on it since my deposit put down a week beforehand.

Thanks Zoot

 

[SuperV8]

Hi Dan,

Aha ok understood- thanks for explaining. I was on the right path it seems re. some kind of 'historical' memorised situation.

So I guess it's a Q of how long this PB164B00 issue, shows up in the history. The dealer said I'm only likely to get a quote this week/ IE it may be the week after that it goes in (should I agree cost). And presumably only then, having their 'big computer' hooked up.

But I do have the AA chap's report (presumably the garage can view this- would anyone know?) of "Oil Pressure Switch Faulty Operation / PB164B00)".. "1) Oil pressure needs checked, 2) Possibly new oil pressure switch needed" which I noted down & relayed to the dealer.

I'm concerned that time will have elapsed, & a few normal starts with no warnings illuminated happened, before they fault-find with the bigge4 computer. And then if nothing shows up, the possibility of them saying "runs fine/ no fault detected/ so we can't do anything".

--

Anyway, the dealer chap said they'd look at the gear-transmission 1st/ backwards issue too, whilst there. But my alarm bells rang: I bet his clever thinking was we can get (me) to pay for an hour or two's labour (to look/ check/ tweak the linkages).. & bung an extra 2 hours onto the quote. So I'm emailing him today to say I specifically -don't- want the transmission issue done simultaneously.

Also making pertinent note to them of odometer reading I did: if you recall I wasn't happy on collection day, seeing 150m put on it since my deposit put down a week beforehand.

Thanks Zoot

P164B00 could be:
Oil pressure switch 1
Oil pressure switch 2
Oil pressure control valve
ECU

The garage should double check the wiring, before assuming it's a switch or control valve.

Hopefully you don't have any 'abnormal engine noise'!

 

[Zoot]

P164B00 could be:
Oil pressure switch 1
Oil pressure switch 2
Oil pressure control valve
ECU

The garage should double check the wiring, before assuming it's a switch or control valve.

Hopefully you don't have any 'abnormal engine noise'!

Hi V8,

I've passed your info on to my dealer- grateful for that.

Noise: well I don't think so, just felt the power 'let go' with warning lamp coming on.

This commonality seems prescient to me tho: both times it happened, a month apart, was 5mins after starting car AM. Ie from cold. And I noticed that it takes a good 10mins minimum, for the oil temp to get up to speed.

Thanks, Zoot

 

[Zoot]

Hi again chaps,

There are usually 2 types of fault codes- historical and live. Historical are recorded in the car's ecu as happened but isn't currently a live fault per say whereas a live is a currently showing fault and is sometimes accompanied by a warning light. Modern cars have a computer that is almost like a simple black box which records everything - thats why alot of people stopped using tuning boxes on VAG cars when under warranty as it will flag up on the computer as a modification. Tuning boxes used to be quite popular for cars under warranty as they would add power and could be removed before a service whereas a remap cannot. Most code readers can read old and new fault codes.
Hope this makes sense.

Dan/ chaps,

I got a quote (£264 inc) fairly quick which is good, which states..


Diagnostics show P055F Engine oil pressure out of range.
Requires oil pressure switches.
(Diagnostics £35/ 2x switches @£48/ 1.5 hrs Labour £88/ +vat).


What do you think, would you be happy to go ahead?

Thanks, Zoot