-
Hey Guest👍👎 We're looking for reviews of your local CUPRA or SEAT Dealership - it's quick and easy to do: Leave a review now
Newbie- basic Q's on me new motor!
- Thread starter Zoot
- Start date
Tbh I don't see the point of expending that effort in a post, to not only offer zero help.. but also just cuss me. Ignored.
The point being chaps..
Ive never had these sort of tyres before. IE slim profile big ones, wider ones.My question again then:
I was asking: if the tyre pressure says "inflate to 51 psi maximum".. would you A) inflate to the max figure, or maybe B) inflate to a lesser figure as a general rule, or C) maybe as its summer, I don't know, inflate to another figure maybe.
And D) taking into account my single odd rear tyre which is "56 max psi".. should I have all 4x psi the same, maybe, I don't know (I shall make an arbitrary guess here as an example) @ 45 psi??
Alas
Hi James.
Even if the info on the side, says 51 psi max-?
Once I know- never need ask again. I just don't ever really like inflating tyres! I get a bit jittery & wanna be sure/ safe (especially my new "sporty numnums" car, the Red Fox
)
The info provided on the data sticker in the vehicle is all you need to abide by, or the owner's manual. Ignore what the tyre sidewall says.
51 PSI is way too high.
36 PSI (approx 2.2bar) is adequate middle ground.
51 PSI is way too high.
36 PSI (approx 2.2bar) is adequate middle ground.
Those tyres will be available for a number of vehicles and the max pressure is an absolute limit, you ALWAYS follow what the plate on the car says. 51 psi is what vans that carry heavy loads need.
I would follow what a few people have said and do 36 psi all round, that way it is a nice balance between comfort, economy and wear.
I would follow what a few people have said and do 36 psi all round, that way it is a nice balance between comfort, economy and wear.
Last edited:
Tyres are designed to fit a wide variety of cars, which will all weigh differently.
The 51 psi is the maximum pressure the tyre can take, but would only be used on a very heavy vehicle.
As others have said the manufacturer's recommended pressures will.be either on a door pillar or inside the fuel cap. However bear in mind that the manufacturer needs the car to achieve the best fuel consumption, so the recommended pressures will be higher than the optimum for tyre life or ride comfort.
For example the manufacturer recommends 39 psi for my Cupra ST, this gives great fuel comsumption but at the expense of a harsh ride.
My independent garage suggested 35 psi as being better for ride comfort, tyre wear and handling, but I get slightly worse fuel consumption.
Apologies I forgot the pillar sticker has info on it for tyres (I recall I was prompted to look at it before, but for what I can't remember -my memory is getting awful- was it tyre pressures then? I can't even recall discussing this!!).
Great I'll go with 36 then.
I do recall in my old golf4 1.4, that the -firmer- the tyre, the more "crashy" it was. I think. It's odd then that since this low pressure warning in the Seat FR, it's seemed crashier.
I haven't ventured into the "Individual" setting yet, but it would be ideal if I could dial in a softer suspension.. as some of our UK road surfaces are fkn appalling. The A44 west of Leominster I use alot, especially, is car-damagingly-bad: I have to slow to 15mph in a good few sections. The warning lamp started just after one very bad bit with frost dmg & potholes. In strong late pm sun, you can't see to avoid or slow for the bad bits hidden in shadows all over the road. Crunch! You plough thru another shitty bit. Makes me SOO godamm mad. In my new red fox.
Thanks.
You are totally right Zoot in that different brands of tyres can have an effect on ride quality- i have found in my experience that Michelin tyres usually are more comfortable than for example Falken. Best thing to do is read reviews of the tyres you are considering and they should hopefully guide you.
It is possible that the potholes are the reason behind the tyre pressure loss, get them pumped up and monitor them because you may have a slow puncture.
The individual mode allows you to adjust throttle response, steering weight and ambient lighting. For example you could have sport throttle response and red ambient lighting with normal steering weight. It doesnt give any extra power in sport but changes how the throttle reacts.
You may find as the car gets older the ride does get more crashy as parts wear but you could either
1. Changes the tyres to a softer compound.
2. Fit new suspension components
This depends on how desperate you are to change the ride and how much you want to spend.
It is possible that the potholes are the reason behind the tyre pressure loss, get them pumped up and monitor them because you may have a slow puncture.
The individual mode allows you to adjust throttle response, steering weight and ambient lighting. For example you could have sport throttle response and red ambient lighting with normal steering weight. It doesnt give any extra power in sport but changes how the throttle reacts.
You may find as the car gets older the ride does get more crashy as parts wear but you could either
1. Changes the tyres to a softer compound.
2. Fit new suspension components
This depends on how desperate you are to change the ride and how much you want to spend.
Many thanks DanMcG.
Aha, presumably the Individual Mode then is "saved"? It'll be interesting to see the throttle changes. But a bit of a shame I can't dial in softer suspension setting. I'm sufficiently brave enough to dive into it then now at least.
It's either the pothole crunch/ warning light re. pressure loss, as cause of the sudden crashy thing happening.. or it's the same as it was & I'm just suddenly super-aware of it.. or as you say, maybe some supsension parts wear thing: I really hope not: I can't afford any more after my recent £300 bill for 2x £35 switches to be fitted. The diesel hike cost has been clobbering enough for me.
Appreciated chaps. Zoot
Similar threads
