The following section from user manual explains how to customise the instrument panel to show selected information, including operating range. Hope this applies to your car as well.
Newbie- basic Q's on me new motor!
- Thread starter Zoot
- Start date
The following section from user manual explains how to customise the instrument panel to show selected information, including operating range. Hope this applies to your car as well.
Hi
thanks indeed- found it. Under my nose as it were, just a few clicks. On the face of it damn useful.. although it showed 90m (2 bars remaining) parked in my drive, & within 5 minutes of driving down to 85, then 80, then 75 within 10 mins, & down to 70 a few mins after this. When I returned from this 12m trip, it had gone up to 75.
So it's pretty vague at best, not sure how useful in actuality. Which is a shame for me, out here low population & rural.
--
Does anyone know if my 2014 Leon FR has ABS brakes? Just looking at it covered in a serious frost, need to go into town today, carefully.
Thanks Zoot
Hi serdar_18fr
thanks indeed- found it. Under my nose as it were, just a few clicks. On the face of it damn useful.. although it showed 90m (2 bars remaining) parked in my drive, & within 5 minutes of driving down to 85, then 80, then 75 within 10 mins, & down to 70 a few mins after this. When I returned from this 12m trip, it had gone up to 75.
So it's pretty vague at best, not sure how useful in actuality. Which is a shame for me, out here low population & rural.
--
Does anyone know if my 2014 Leon FR has ABS brakes? Just looking at it covered in a serious frost, need to go into town today, carefully.
Thanks Zoot
So your 12m trip changed the range by 15m - I'd say that's not bad for an estimate! You'd want it more pessimistic to be safe!
The range figure - is just an averaged estimate based on your recent driving and MPG - still useful for an 'estimate' If your driving is very consistent, the range estimate will be more accurate, if your driving is more inconsistent, expect the range estimate to follow suit!
They don't say toothcomb they say a "fine tooth comb" as in a comb with narrow teeth that are close together. It comes from the literal use of a fine-toothed comb to find and remove small imperfections like lice or tangles in hair, and is now used metaphorically to describe a meticulous search or review of any kind.
Hi SuperV8,
no, within minutes of driving the range went from 90 to 70. That's within 10 minutes, I'd say I'd driven all of 6 miles.
By the time I'd got back, having driven 12miles total.. it decided to go UP from 70 to 75!
The point being it's fairly hopeless as a range estimation. I drove out again today & within a few minutes, maybe 3 miles, it went down to 60. I think the bars are actually the more useful indicator. Sigh.
---
Anyway I do have a slight issue, possibly. At the dealership, jumping in for the test drive, the car didn't turn over. I saw the "press clutch to start" & tried again, but it didn't turn over. We jump started it, the dealer saying this happens now & then with cars left in forecourt etc. Hmm, I made a mental note.
I insisted the battery was checked, & was told it was during the MOT (12 months in with the price) prior to putting deposit down. I also knew I had a 3 month warranty, so if anything were dicky, I had this surity. So proceeded to buy.
Had it a week now & no problems. Today it was severely frosted up, so I decided to try starting it, & it did so immediately. Great. Later though & warmer once sun had melted the frost off, I couldn't get it to turn over. Clutch pressed. Tried again, & it started ok. Hmm. Went into town, stopped & started it with no issues/ started each time.
So I now have a query. I'll monitor it over next week+ to see if it does it again, but in meantime I read in the manual some confusing stuff related to 'if it doesn't start.. try again in 30 secs' as if saying not starting might occasionally be normal. That's confusing. That's not kosher either.
Any thoughts chaps?
I can highly recommend adding a battery monitor to your battery.
More info:
www.seatcupra.net
More info:
How to install a battery monitor
Follow this easy POV installation video on how to add a Battery Monitor to your VW MQB platform car (Seat Leon 5F Mk3, VW Golf MK7, Skoda Octavia, Audi A3/S3 etc). I have installed a InTact Battery Guard to my Seat Leon 5f Cupra ST 280. Link...
www.seatcupra.net
Range will constantly vary depending on a number of variables - e.g. weather conditions, traffic conditions, driving style, journey type, whether the engine is cold or fully warmed up. Both ‘Range’ and fuel consumption will always be at their worst when starting a journey on a cold engine - especially in winter weather, so no surprise really you saw a noticeable drop in range during your first five minutes of (cold) driving. If your return journey was fairly soon after your outward journey, your engine would’ve still been warm and operating more efficiently so no surprise that the range - and fuel consumption - had improved. Some of the other variables listed above may have also been in your favour.
If you switch the display from range to show your mpg for the current journey, you’ll see a similar trend; very poor mpg at the start of the journey when the engine’s cold, but gets progressively better as the engine warms up to its optimum operating temperature.
The only time I can remember ever using ‘Range’ was during a fuel shortage a few years ago; I was some distance from home and running low on fuel and couldn’t find a filling station that was open. On that journey, ‘Range’ helped me to moderate my driving style to eke out as many miles as possible from my remaining fuel to get me home. Other than that, I don’t find the ‘Range’ display to be of any meaningful value.
If you live in a rural area and range anxiety is a concern to you, then it’s probably worth keeping your tank at least half full.
Hi thanks for the advice.I can highly recommend adding a battery monitor to your battery.
More info:
How to install a battery monitor
Follow this easy POV installation video on how to add a Battery Monitor to your VW MQB platform car (Seat Leon 5F Mk3, VW Golf MK7, Skoda Octavia, Audi A3/S3 etc). I have installed a InTact Battery Guard to my Seat Leon 5f Cupra ST 280. Link...
I don't have a smartphone though. I do have an iPad but struggle with what an 'app' actually is (I don't think I use any).
So this monitor method, is not quite so simple for me to follow. But take your underlying point that maybe the battery -is- simply old & just needs replacing. I had the very same happen in my old golf4 in the summer, asked on a forum, & the consensus was 'replace battery'. I put a DMM on tho & it measured 12.4v (which on the face of it/ in my book says it's healthy) but they insisted it was suspect even so, & that I buy a new one. Hey.. be a result if my 3-month old golf4 battery is the same type & I could just swap it in- job done!! Assuming not tho..
So, if I can myself determine the battery's just old it & needs a new one.. ideal.. I can likely get the dealership to cough up for a new one, despite telling me at point of sale that "it was tested- fine" (hmm.. so why did it refuse to turn over at my test drive then I wanted to ask- but they assured me ok/ & my 3-month warranty gave me a back-up).
Thanks alot chaps- the forum has come up trumps, remarkably quickly in my book!
Zoot
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If you suspect the battery, then having some data on it is always good so you can make an informed decision. Reputable garages usually have a battery measure tool, showing if the battery is still ok. And they usually can do a printout of the status.
The battery monitor I recommended shows data like the ambient temperature, the state of charge, how long your car takes to start, historical data etc.
Something like this:
You can also do a simple test with a digital gauge. I use this chart for my car batteries, 12.4 during rest is well within normal limits and looks fine.
This was my new Exide battery, just after being delivered
Another option, swap out the cigarette lighter with a voltage gauge/USB ports thingy, I also have that haha
Was the car scanned after having the start issues?
The battery monitor I recommended shows data like the ambient temperature, the state of charge, how long your car takes to start, historical data etc.
Something like this:
You can also do a simple test with a digital gauge. I use this chart for my car batteries, 12.4 during rest is well within normal limits and looks fine.
This was my new Exide battery, just after being delivered
Another option, swap out the cigarette lighter with a voltage gauge/USB ports thingy, I also have that haha
Was the car scanned after having the start issues?
@nd-photo.nl
Very grateful for your input. Was the car scanned..? well this I don't know. I was told by dealer, that at the MOT (done for the sale/ in with the price) "battery was tested- checked out ok" or reassuring words like so.
But does this mean they 'scanned it'? No idea. I presume this is the correct test, & just putting a DMM between the terminals & reading 12.4 or whatever, isn't (I'm only guessing this is what they may have done. Maybe they did scan it).
So what do you suggest I do. I have my 3-month warranty. I was told 'battery ok' but if I have these occasional non-turnover situations, it chimes exactly with my previous golf4: some chaps on my hifi forum just said "it's highly likely the battery.. change it". Which I did, & no issues afterwards.. but the golf went kaput within 3 months: so this wasn't proof my hifi chaps' recommendation was correct.
Is 'scanning it' a definitive test for the battery condition?? It's this definitive test that I need to achieve myself, if I have slight doubts my dealer won't just pull the wool over my eyes should I take it back in again with my concerns, repeating "we tested the battery, & it checked out ok".
The 12v thing looks affordable & no app smartphone situation needed. But would this thing's reading be the definitive test to determine if the issue -is- with the battery simply needing to be replaced-?
Thanks, Zoot
Very grateful for your input. Was the car scanned..? well this I don't know. I was told by dealer, that at the MOT (done for the sale/ in with the price) "battery was tested- checked out ok" or reassuring words like so.
But does this mean they 'scanned it'? No idea. I presume this is the correct test, & just putting a DMM between the terminals & reading 12.4 or whatever, isn't (I'm only guessing this is what they may have done. Maybe they did scan it).
So what do you suggest I do. I have my 3-month warranty. I was told 'battery ok' but if I have these occasional non-turnover situations, it chimes exactly with my previous golf4: some chaps on my hifi forum just said "it's highly likely the battery.. change it". Which I did, & no issues afterwards.. but the golf went kaput within 3 months: so this wasn't proof my hifi chaps' recommendation was correct.
Is 'scanning it' a definitive test for the battery condition?? It's this definitive test that I need to achieve myself, if I have slight doubts my dealer won't just pull the wool over my eyes should I take it back in again with my concerns, repeating "we tested the battery, & it checked out ok".
The 12v thing looks affordable & no app smartphone situation needed. But would this thing's reading be the definitive test to determine if the issue -is- with the battery simply needing to be replaced-?
Thanks, Zoot
Especially with the cold. Thats always the best test for a battery, the winter season
Besides the battery, the issue could also be something else. Thats why I asked about the scan (using VCDS or Autel or something similar). The car has a lot of sensors/electronics and will report back if something is fishy.
Besides the battery, the issue could also be something else. Thats why I asked about the scan (using VCDS or Autel or something similar). The car has a lot of sensors/electronics and will report back if something is fishy.
Hi nd..Especially with the cold. Thats always the best test for a battery, the winter season
Besides the battery, the issue could also be something else. Thats why I asked about the scan (using VCDS or Autel or something similar). The car has a lot of sensors/electronics and will report back if something is fishy.
the first time it failed to turn over, was within our silly-warm autumn. The second time it had been very cold the night before, but it started immediately with the car coveted in serious frost at 9am. Few hrs later tho, once sun had melted the frost from car.. was when the 2nd time I tried & it failed.
So it seems then cold hasn't been a factor. Age.. well it sure looks like the original battery, now 11.5 yrs old. So I hope, really hope, that this being top of suspect list, prooves correct.
What I have found, is my local KwikFit (uk big national tyre & MOT test centre) does FREE battery health checks. Free?! And a slot in town tomorrow midday? Excellent. Booked.
So I hope that although only a 5min test, it might include the scan you mention, & test sufficient for me to know the likelihood of the battery being the culprit. And then I can get my dealer to agree to a replacement, assuming they'll agree/ should do with the 3-month warranty only 2 weeks in. If I have proof from the test, I guess.
If it tests good tho.. then I'm in a more difficult situation. Will report back tomorrow.
Gratefully, Zoot
Good luck with a warranty claim! At 11.5 years that battery owes nothing (assuming it has not been changed before). There are some threads here that discuss batteries. Whether the dealer changes it or you, make sure it is a decent one and that it is coded.
You can expect a hard sell from KwikFit.
@Zoot Ask for a printout of the measurement or make a picture with your phone. Places like Kwikfit are a hit and miss, they will always try to sell you something, but lure you in with the "free" stuff.
When I replaced my battery, I found out that my Banner EFB battery had a production date on it, much like the DOT code on a tyre.
Week 22 2015 (my car is from 2015). I replaced it january this year after I bought my Cupra in December 2024. I am a firm believer in preventative maintenance, and as a bonus I film (almost) everything for content for my Youtube channel
www.seatcupra.net
When I replaced my battery, I found out that my Banner EFB battery had a production date on it, much like the DOT code on a tyre.
Week 22 2015 (my car is from 2015). I replaced it january this year after I bought my Cupra in December 2024. I am a firm believer in preventative maintenance, and as a bonus I film (almost) everything for content for my Youtube channel
How to: replace the battery inc VCDS coding
Swapping over the battery is quite an easy DIY job, which you can do at home. Don't forget coding the battery to the car for the best longevity of your car battery. Especially when you swap over an EFB battery for a better AGM battery, as I did. This was one of the first times working on my...
www.seatcupra.net
Hi @nd-photo.nl@Zoot Ask for a printout of the measurement or make a picture with your phone. Places like Kwikfit are a hit and miss, they will always try to sell you something, but lure you in with the "free" stuff.
When I replaced my battery, I found out that my Banner EFB battery had a production date on it, much like the DOT code on a tyre.
Week 22 2015 (my car is from 2015). I replaced it january this year after I bought my Cupra in December 2024. I am a firm believer in preventative maintenance, and as a bonus I film (almost) everything for content for my Youtube channel
How to: replace the battery inc VCDS coding
Swapping over the battery is quite an easy DIY job, which you can do at home. Don't forget coding the battery to the car for the best longevity of your car battery. Especially when you swap over an EFB battery for a better AGM battery, as I did. This was one of the first times working on my...
Fantastic helpful replies- so grateful.
Ok so I had this free battery check, in KwikFit in town. 15mins I'd say, with some gizmo on my battery, & a printout given to me. Below.
The chap said "although printout shows it checks out as ok, we did see evidence of it not holding charge too well".
Hmm. Thing is I'm a bit confused as to why it --would-- start immediately 1st thing AM after an overnight big freeze.. but 3 hrs later --failing to-- when the sun had burned the frost off. That doesn't say to me 'battery is suspect' (or the reverse would surely have happened: not starting covered in frost, but starting later when outside temp had risen).. but something else being at fault instead.
I do think your battery date is worth checking/ will do this tomorrow. Is it ok to just whip off one clamp on the battery terminal to look for a date, then pop it back on-?
Anyway, here is my printout:
Thanks, Zoot
No worries, glad to be of help. Thats what these forums are for 
This test looks good to me. Cranking voltage is important and is well within the range (the 11,4v value). For comparison, my Cupra with a 11 months old battery sits at 11,1v and 3.4 seconds crank (just checked the app
). I also suspect something else is on.
It doesn't cut out all of a sudden right? If the answer is yes, then it could be a faulty Crank Position Sensor.
This test looks good to me. Cranking voltage is important and is well within the range (the 11,4v value). For comparison, my Cupra with a 11 months old battery sits at 11,1v and 3.4 seconds crank (just checked the app
). I also suspect something else is on.It doesn't cut out all of a sudden right? If the answer is yes, then it could be a faulty Crank Position Sensor.
No it hasn't cut out. Simply completely dead turning the key. But only only 2x in 2 weeks, all other times (including the morning of that super cold sudden -5 overnight dip) it's started fine.No worries, glad to be of help. Thats what these forums are for
This test looks good to me. Cranking voltage is important and is well within the range (the 11,4v value). For comparison, my Cupra with a 11 months old battery sits at 11,1v and 3.4 seconds crank (just checked the app
It doesn't cut out all of a sudden right? If the answer is yes, then it could be a faulty Crank Position Sensor.
Ah. I was hoping you might spot at least something amiss within the data on the printout.
So what do you suggest? I mean I have this 3-month warranty. Car bought 12 days ago. Twice not starting, once at the test drive. I do after all have the KwikFit chap say 'some signs it's not holding charge' (despite the ok printout results).
IE How do I approach the dealer about this?
Seat's rear -seats- question!
Can my rear seats be removed? I notice unlike my old golf4 in which firstly you had to tilt the back seat lower section forward (the smaller section your bottom sits on) in order then to then fold down the back sections flat down.. in my Leon, it seems like the lower seat section remains put.
This means there's much less height achieved. So can the back sections (which are in a 1/3rd to 2/3rds split configuration) be removed entirely from the car, to gain height?
Thanks, zoot
Can my rear seats be removed? I notice unlike my old golf4 in which firstly you had to tilt the back seat lower section forward (the smaller section your bottom sits on) in order then to then fold down the back sections flat down.. in my Leon, it seems like the lower seat section remains put.
This means there's much less height achieved. So can the back sections (which are in a 1/3rd to 2/3rds split configuration) be removed entirely from the car, to gain height?
Thanks, zoot
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