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Depending on the age of your car you can code the stop start off full time

1 - Module 19 - Diagnostic interface for data bus - Code (20103)
2 - Adaptation
3 - Start / Stop initial voltage limit - (Change value to 12V - By default 7.6V)

or

1 - Module 19 - Diagnostic interface for data bus - Code (20103)
2 - Adaptation
3 - EM start stop requirement ambient temperature - (Change value to 50º - By default -50º)

But personally I went for the stop start memory module which is easy to fit and remembers the last setting you used.
 
The line through the Auto Stop/Start just means that it is currently not enabled due to either the present battery charge state or cabin heater needs the engine running to meet present setpoint or some other operational reason.
If you press the Auto Stop/Start button to disable it, this symbol will never get shown during this journey.

All black painted under body running gear - yes this covering/protection is not very high quality on any/all VW Group products!
 
Sort of. I disabled it by changing the activation voltage (using VCDS or Autel or similar)

With thanks to @tracktoy

You can also buy a cable from Aliexpress which disables it for you:


Deactivate Start / Stop System by voltage limit.
* Applicable up to MY18 *


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBAR8-3D4Es

With this modification we will permanently deactivate the Start / Stop and we will no longer have to do it every time we start from the button.

1 - Module 19 - Diagnostic interface for data bus - Code (20103)
2 - Adaptation
3 - Start / Stop initial voltage limit - (Change value to 12V - By default 7.6V)

In 2019 models it seems that it does not work as we have been able to collect in the forum.

Deactivate Start / Stop System by temperature limit.
* Applicable up to MY18 *


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBAR8-3D4Es

With this modification we will permanently deactivate the Start / Stop and we will no longer have to do it every time we start from the button.

1 - Module 19 - Diagnostic interface for data bus - Code (20103)
2 - Adaptation
3 - EM start stop requirement ambient temperature - (Change value to 50º - By default -50º)

In 2019 models it seems that it does not work according to we were able to collect in the forum.
 
Depending on the age of your car you can code the stop start off full time

1 - Module 19 - Diagnostic interface for data bus - Code (20103)
2 - Adaptation
3 - Start / Stop initial voltage limit - (Change value to 12V - By default 7.6V)

or

1 - Module 19 - Diagnostic interface for data bus - Code (20103)
2 - Adaptation
3 - EM start stop requirement ambient temperature - (Change value to 50º - By default -50º)

But personally I went for the stop start memory module which is easy to fit and remembers the last setting you used.
Aha cheers TToy. I'll have to look into this code reader thingy as I've never had one before.

Useful info to refer back to, should I get one.

Thanks, Zoot
 
On modern cars you need a code reader and you want one that supports full VAG motors not just OBD2 because they wont show you all the errors the car shows, There are also a number that allow you to either pay a small fee for pre coded solution or a license to do manual updates.

Plenty of posts on here about the various options.
 
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On modern cars you need a code reader and you want one that supports full VAG motors not just OBD2 because they wont show you all the errors the car shows, There are also a number that allow you to either pay a small fee for pre coded solution or a license to do manual updates.

Plenty of posts on here about the various options.
Thanks Tracktoy- just spotted you replied with this info: I'll need to get one, sounds a sensible investment.

--

Hi again chaps,

in the meantime I got a yellow warning lamp today, which I can't pin down in the manual/ nothing about it.

Drove car AM then a few mins after starting engine from cold, I stopped to natter to a logging chap/ with engine on. Continued on, then few mins later got this warning lamp below, flashing repeatedly: manual says something about 'engine control system'/ look at pg 206.. but nothing there about it. I think I noticed a loss of power whilst the warning lamp on.

Drove home concerned, car off. Gave it a few mins, decided to try car again, & warning lamp didn't show.
Drove my 12m journey, all seemed fine. So I'm not too concerned, but do have a 100m trip tomorrow, so best to ask.

Any thoughts appreciated.

8AAAAF33-4EE2-4B28-91B3-68A663FAB4B9.jpeg
 
This is your glow plug warning lamp.
You need to plug it into an OBD2 interface - to find the fault code.

1770727387488.png
 
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This is your glow plug warning lamp.
You need to plug it into an OD2 interface - to find the fault code.

View attachment 52817
Crikey what on earth is a glow plug??

Anyway, it only came on for a while.. now not doing it. Is the car safe to drive? I'm about to nip into town, 10m there & back so will evaluate situation again.

And I'll have a word with my dealer later today/ Im luckily just within 3 months warranty/ but I need to drive it 85m to get there, tomorrow..

Thoughts appreciated.
 
I thought is would be just related to your glow plug system - but seems it could be any fault with the management of the diesel engine!

From the manual:

1770733276001.png


#edit# to add:
red warning would mean STOP.
Yellow should be fine to drive - and get it checked soon.
I would just double check your oil and coolant - as you should be doing regularly anyway!
1770734243421.png
 
Last edited:
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I thought is would be just related to your glow plug system - but seems it could be any fault with the management of the diesel engine!

From the manual:

View attachment 52818

#edit# to add:
red warning would mean STOP.
Yellow should be fine to drive - and get it checked soon.
I would just double check your oil and coolant - as you should be doing regularly anyway!
View attachment 52819
Hi V8,

grateful for the info you gave here a few days ago, which I read at the time.

I've decided to monitor it since that flashing occurred, once. And thankfully it hasn't done so again.

I'm pretty sure it was due to my unusual sudden stopping & idling of the car for a good few minutes, about 200yds on a downward slope/ gradient.. just a couple of minutes after ignition.

---

What I have had though, which is an utter ballache, is a repeat of the car going in REVERSE situation, when I selected 1st gear. This time no-one was behind me thankfully, because I sped backwards a good 5 metres. I was turning from my lane onto a clear B road, so put my foot down reasonably firmly. Hence nipping backwards for so long.

I stopped puzzled as you would, considering if I'd done some daft thing, then methodically selected 1st & tried it again. Once again it went backwards. Tried again.. fine. Then on for the day, fine.

So I called my dealer. Again about this. He was polite enough considering I'm 1 week past my 3-month warranty.. & agreed to 're-align the linkeage arms' as he did before. End of the month. Which was decent.

But he said he needs the car for 2-3weeks to drive it around in order for the fault to repeat, to then be able to attempt a fix. He said he can't do so, unless it presents the fault, as it isn't being faulty (but agreed to tweak the linkeage - as he said he did before, although I saw no evidence the gearstick rubber gaitor was lifted: they gave me a courtesy car for 2 weeks if you recall). I said it's unlikely though, to 'play ball' & conveniently present the problem within those 2-3 weeks, so could he just tweak the linkeage/ whatever he did before/ & could I watch? Yes he said. So that's the situation. In 2 weeks or so.

I'll be able to witness him do it, look at the mechanism, & learn from it. To then I guess possibly be in a position to have to repeat the tweak, myself, as & when & if it should repeat this anomally in the future.

So I'm puzzled, concerned, no idea what to think. Hardly reassuring though to drive like so, is it.

Thanks, zoot
 
So the thing is, that unfortunately my theory that the hill assist function's brief 'unlock' coinciding with pressing the clutch down, then the throttle, which causes a slight unnerving backwards motion.. HAS BEEN DEBUNKED as to what happened to me before.

I -did- select 1st gear & the car drove backwards 2 months ago then after all. I was on an upward slope, then, leading me to think gravity was helping the backwards motion + the hill assist 'unlocking' briefly as being the cause. IE I was only under the allusion when I concluded recently that back then, the car actually presented no fault & it was just that I was unused to the hill assist functioning.

Because when it happened again couple of days ago.. I was on absolutely flat road. Dead flat. So there definitely IS a reverse/ 1st gear crosstalk very occasional fault.

Urgh.
 
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I almost had a panic attack today, just thinking of a situation I was in yesterday. It suddenly occured to me, & I went into a sweat.

I was on my village lane about to turn onto my B-road into town (exactly where a few days ago I had the car go in REVERSE / with 1st gear selected). Poked my nose out onto the straight B-road section (cars get some speed, & visibility compromised a bit to make a R turn onto the B-roa, so you have to inch out, then zip off).

Clear both ways so I inched forward, looked left again to check, & a car approaching. I looked right, & two crsmalso approaching. Both at 50mph approximately. So for the 1st time in 10 years here, I selected reverse gear & inched back a couple of feet.

Now, if I had a mirror image situation of my fault, IE the car instead of going BACKWARDS having selected reverse, it instead went forwards.............. I could have been killed. And possibly killed others too.

Thankfully my sudden minor panic attack just realising a day afterwards of this theoretical situation, was elieviated. Becuase I realised my fault was the car incorrectly going backwards. Never yet, incorrectly going forwards.

But it's food for thought. I simply have to get this gear thing fixed. But I have no idea how, if it only presents the fault so rarely. I'm in an impossible Catch22 it seems.

Zoot
 
If you are still having issues with the gearbox, to be honest, I would go see a gearbox specialist and get it diagnosed properly. There is no point in getting the gearbox linkages adjusted if there is an underlying issue such as clutch/flywheel problems.

I believe you said you were in Wales and there are a few specialists around so I would call them Monday and ask to take the car round to them.
 
If you are still having issues with the gearbox, to be honest, I would go see a gearbox specialist and get it diagnosed properly. There is no point in getting the gearbox linkages adjusted if there is an underlying issue such as clutch/flywheel problems.

I believe you said you were in Wales and there are a few specialists around so I would call them Monday and ask to take the car round to them.

I said this big job gearbox stripdown might be needed "but I hope for your sake, that it isn't" to my dealer, 6weeks after buying it, when I dropped it off for them to look at the linkages, for the 10 days it was there/ got the courtesy car.

I was implying that if the fault wasn't the linkages, that this big job gearbox stripdown, should be done to rectify the problem, by them. IE Without my paying, as it was within the warranty 3-months. The dealer himself said worst case, it could conceivably need it.

But when I picked car up, I am 100% sure the gaitor (rubber gearstick sleeve) hadn't been lifted. Because as a carpenter, I just do carry wood dust on sleeves & gloves, & noticed the gaitor had the same wood dust in place when I picked car up. No way it'd still be there IF the gaitor had been lifted (I'm saying this in the belief that to tweak the linkages, you -have- to lift the gaitor 1st: maybe someone could confirm I'm correct).

So as the problem is a continuation of what I reported to them early on, well within the warranty, the question I have, is whether reporting a continuing same problem/ IE whatever the say they did (he gave me his word on my call to them a few days ago thst absolutely the gaitor WAS lifted, by him, before: this I know cannot be true) now at this juncture just after the warranty has expired... whether they are liable to fix it.

I know the reason he didn't lift the gaitor & tweak the linkages (even if he swears he did exactly this): it was because they'd have driven it, to try to get the Reverse/ 1st fault to manifest itself, to then go on to attempt to fix it. They'd have driven it, determined "no fault found", parked it. Left it. Put a new battery in for me, yes, but that's all that was done. I just know this to be true.

Hence asking him whilst he does the linkage tweak, which he said he'd do foc (which is decent enough I guess) in a couple of weeks or so.. that could I come & watch him do it? A) to make certain the gaitor's lifted/ linkages seen to at least, & B) to see whether it's anything I can adjust myself, in the future, at home here, on the rare occasion the fault re-appears. Which it just will. Unless the gearbox is stripped down. Which they likely won't agree to do now, post warranty which expired 10th Feb.

I can't afford to pay a garage here, £1k to get the gearbox strip down big job done. I just can't. Besides, how am .i to know this will cure the fault? I may drive it afterwards for 2 months & all fine, but a week later the car goes in REVERSE again whilst selecting 1st. Then we're back to it likely being linkages all along. But you can't present the problem to the garage, because it did it once, a day before you call them up. Drive it in, & the problem's passed.

It seems I'm in a Catch22.
 
If the fault was already in existence when you bought the car the dealer is obliged to repair it within 6 months of you buying it.

Seek advice from the Citizens Advice Bureau.

Google summary below.

When buying a car with a pre-existing fault from a dealer, you are protected by the Consumer Rights Act 2015, which states the vehicle must be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose, and as described. You have a short-term right to reject the car for a full refund within 30 days. After 30 days but within 6 months, you are entitled to a repair or replacement, with the law assuming the fault existed at the time of sale.
The Motor Ombudsman
The Motor Ombudsman +4
Key Rights and Timeframes
  • 0-30 Days (Short-term Right to Reject): If a fault is found, you can reject the car for a full refund. This applies if the car is faulty, not as described, or not fit for purpose.
  • 30 Days - 6 Months (Repair or Replacement): The dealer is allowed one opportunity to repair or replace the faulty vehicle. If this fails, you are entitled to a final rejection (refund) or a price reduction. During this period, the fault is assumed to have been present at the time of sale, meaning the dealer must prove otherwise.
  • After 6 Months: You must prove that the fault existed at the time of purchase.
  • Private Sellers: Your rights are significantly reduced; you only have protection if the car was misdescribed (e.g., advertised as having a new engine when it doesn't).
    Citizens Advice
    Citizens Advice +6
Exceptions to Your Rights
You may not be entitled to a remedy if:
Citizens Advice
Citizens Advice
  • The dealer pointed out the specific fault before you bought the car.
  • You inspected the car and should have noticed the fault.
  • The fault is considered "fair wear and tear" for the age and mileage.
Steps to Take
  1. Notify the Seller Immediately: Contact them in writing (email) to document the fault.
  2. Request a Repair/Refund: Clearly state your desired outcome based on the timeframe.
  3. Use Official Channels: If the dealer is uncooperative, contact The Motor Ombudsman, Citizens Advice, or a legal professional.
    Stephensons Solicitors LLP
    Stephensons Solicitors LLP +4



Problem
 
Last edited:
If the fault was already in existence when you bought the car the dealer is obliged to repair it within 6 months of you buying it.

See advice from the Citizens Advice Bureau.

Google summary below.

When buying a car with a pre-existing fault from a dealer, you are protected by the Consumer Rights Act 2015, which states the vehicle must be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose, and as described. You have a short-term right to reject the car for a full refund within 30 days. After 30 days but within 6 months, you are entitled to a repair or replacement, with the law assuming the fault existed at the time of sale.
View attachment 53024The Motor Ombudsman +4
Key Rights and Timeframes
  • 0-30 Days (Short-term Right to Reject): If a fault is found, you can reject the car for a full refund. This applies if the car is faulty, not as described, or not fit for purpose.
  • 30 Days - 6 Months (Repair or Replacement): The dealer is allowed one opportunity to repair or replace the faulty vehicle. If this fails, you are entitled to a final rejection (refund) or a price reduction. During this period, the fault is assumed to have been present at the time of sale, meaning the dealer must prove otherwise.
  • After 6 Months: You must prove that the fault existed at the time of purchase.
  • Private Sellers: Your rights are significantly reduced; you only have protection if the car was misdescribed (e.g., advertised as having a new engine when it doesn't).
    View attachment 53025Citizens Advice +6
Exceptions to Your Rights
You may not be entitled to a remedy if:
View attachment 53026Citizens Advice
  • The dealer pointed out the specific fault before you bought the car.
  • You inspected the car and should have noticed the fault.
  • The fault is considered "fair wear and tear" for the age and mileage.
Steps to Take
  1. Notify the Seller Immediately: Contact them in writing (email) to document the fault.
  2. Request a Repair/Refund: Clearly state your desired outcome based on the timeframe.
  3. Use Official Channels: If the dealer is uncooperative, contact The Motor Ombudsman, Citizens Advice, or a legal professional.
    View attachment 53023Stephensons Solicitors LLP +4



Problem
Hi cuthound,

this is fantastic help, super grateful. And reassuring too! I can print this off & have up my sleeve as an ace card.

Someone else has also said if the fault was reported within the warranty, & reoccurring, then yup.. they are oblidged to repair it. Chiming with your info here.

What a relief! Thanks, Zoothorn
 
General question on 'Mode' chaps..

I can't really distinguish between Normal, & Sport modes.

Should I be able to, IE with yours, is this a subtle difference or markedly different-?

Thanks Zoot
 
General question on 'Mode' chaps..

I can't really distinguish between Normal, & Sport modes.

Should I be able to, IE with yours, is this a subtle difference or markedly different-?

Thanks Zoot
It changes the colour of the LED's in the door cards. Apart from that, nothing really. It would likely be more significant on a car with an automatic gearbox. When I first got my car I did a test on two identical journeys in eco and sport mode. Fuel consumption was the same. So mine has stayed in sport mode ever since.
 
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Like DaveS I didn't find a difference in economy but the throttle response was awful in eco mode so I just used mine in normal. Steering was a bit heavier in sport but it felt unnatural to me.

The other thing to consider is that the car resets the engine back to normal regardless of what mode you are in when you start up so you could have sport steering and lighting but normal engine response.