50
how old are you? you best read this....... Click This
save you a bit of time, specifically the steering and suspension sections
50
how old are you? you best read this....... Click This
save you a bit of time, specifically the steering and suspension sections
50
you best read this....... Click This
save you a bit of time, specifically the steering and suspension sections
I'm 28, but I own/have owned/repaired a lot of cars. I believe you. I'm just saying its never happened to me. Anything they need to check under the car is always done while its on the ramps.
just asked as IIRC , when the cars jacked up a loose spring is an MOT failure. think its so if changing a wheel at the roadside, your suspension doesn't fall apart
the 90% bend I'm reffering to is located between the intercooler and the intake manifold, and is located under the headlight.
as for joining to the OEM hose joiners........you could cut the silicone hose, leaving enough hose attached to the joiner to jubilee clip onto an aluminium pipe
i asked my mate this morning, and no its not a fail, only fail when it comes to a spring is if it is cracked or if the place it sits on is goosed. otherwise its not a problem.
also on an MOT ramp the car is not put in the air on stands, your car drives onto the ramp.
is there any point changing that plastic pipe for an aluminium one?
little confused about what you mean about cutting and joining the originals to silicone...
Would love to get my FR TDI running hybrid...
Hmm maybe next year!?
you should, it doesnt cost much either, only downside is your car is off road a week or so.
some garage's who perform MOT's do so on a ramp with arms, hence everything is already there, but what andy was referring to was when it is on an MOT ramp (every MOT tester must have one) because the whole ramp that the car drives onto goes up, undernethe is a jack which slides along the centre of the ramp which then jacks up front/rear
is there any point changing that plastic pipe for an aluminium one?
little confused about what you mean about cutting and joining the originals to silicone...
Item 8 is the standard pipe that goes from the intercooler and under the headlight. this also has the housing for the MAP sensor in it.
in the diagram, at the end where the pipe is connected to the intercooler, it is moulded around the crash bar i think, which is unnecessary and causes a resrtiction. a straight pipe would increase air flow
have a look on the Forge website at the Seat Sport FMIC fitting kit, there is a guide to fitting with pictures which will show you a straight pipe can be fitted and what parts you'll need
re: cutting hoses....looking at part 11 which connects to the inlet manifold, at the right hand end this has a OEM 'male' coupling joiner, which connects into the 'female' joint in the manifold, if you cut the left end coupling off, you are left with the male coupling on the right that goes into the intake manifold attached to a 90% silicone hose, which you can then clamp an aluminium tube in with a jubilee clip.
point to note though, that these OEM silicone hoses with the metal coupling on, should you want to replace them and return to standard, are about £50 - £100 each
from the stealers depending on which one it is!
i got a Forge FMIC setup with custom pipework
Item 8 is the standard pipe that goes from the intercooler and under the headlight. this also has the housing for the MAP sensor in it.
in the diagram, at the end where the pipe is connected to the intercooler, it is moulded around the crash bar i think, which is unnecessary and causes a resrtiction. a straight pipe would increase air flow
have a look on the Forge website at the Seat Sport FMIC fitting kit, there is a guide to fitting with pictures which will show you a straight pipe can be fitted and what parts you'll need
re: cutting hoses....looking at part 11 which connects to the inlet manifold, at the right hand end this has a OEM 'male' coupling joiner, which connects into the 'female' joint in the manifold, if you cut the left end coupling off, you are left with the male coupling on the right that goes into the intake manifold attached to a 90% silicone hose, which you can then clamp an aluminium tube in with a jubilee clip.
point to note though, that these OEM silicone hoses with the metal coupling on, should you want to replace them and return to standard, are about £50 - £100 each
i got a Forge FMIC setup with custom pipework
AHHHH i see, thanks for that bud, will look into it in more detail and see whct i can do
When i upgraded the OEM setup for the 312mm TT setup, i asked the question about putting bigger brakes on the bake and was told there isn't much point
what size discs are used in the R32 rear setup?
what size discs are used in the R32 rear setup?
When i upgraded the OEM setup for the 312mm TT setup, i asked the question about putting bigger brakes on the bake and was told there isn't much point
what size discs are used in the R32 rear setup?
Theres not a huge point to upgrading the rears from a performance point. But I always feel the rear discs on the cupra look pretty stupid as they are tiny. And one of my calipers needs a rebuild anyway so it would be a good excuse lol
the discs are 310x22mm, the callipers are obv comming off of a 4wd so spacers will be needed for the carriers to fit the calipers
When i upgraded the OEM setup for the 312mm TT setup, i asked the question about putting bigger brakes on the bake and was told there isn't much point
what size discs are used in the R32 rear setup?
the r32 has a massive 310mm on the rear lol. if you upgrade the rears it means breaking is sharper, but less jerky. normally due to having such strong front set ups the nose dives down, having the rears done would eliminate the heavy weight shift to front wheels, i.e. no nose diving
its definately worth it if you can get them at a good price, i think its fair to say £150 for the complete set up, inc pads and discs, is not bad, ill fit them myself too...
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